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Leave as is. In 3 months nobody will notice, and you'll have forgotten.

And after lots of stress and calculations today we received the letter saying that we could start Instead of yet another Plan, Check, Schedule we had Confirmation of Reasonable Compliance. Now the real work begins and I can get updated quotes, but at least we can start making a real mess by digging trenches when it's been wet for weeks. Next step is to double check everything before we order anything.

It five mil to dust granite chippings Used for making fine concrete I normally mix it 5-1 You can hit it with a sledge hammer after a couple of days

So, install the 6 port manifold now, and cap the unused ports and do the rest of the UFH when the time comes. Slide a bit of timber in to the screed to separate the installed pipes from the bit you will dig out later to protect them from kango damage. - Is probably how I'd go about it...

I even got it in writing.... I'm happy to share any info you might find useful.

We’ve recently finished a reasonably sized extension and the process is scary how everything has gone up. I can’t definitively relate to the comments about kitchens and bathrooms, we haggled less as it went on as we just wanted it finished and the builders gone. Hard work but we’re delighted with the space, but need to work hard to recoup some money elsewhere in life for furniture and landscaping! Good Luck

You need to derate the cable based on the installation reference method

Yes, if you run cable through insulation you will need to calculate the derating so that you end up using the correct size cable. BS7671 provides all the info and methodology so your electrician should be able to work it out for you very easily. If you're going to use conduit then that's a different scenario which will give you a different result. Legal copies of the BS are not available online (unless you have a BSi subscription) as British Standards are expensive to purchase and there are copyright issues uploading any extracts. Is this just a one off cable or will there be many of them? If it's a one off, post the details here and I will take a look through my copy of the BS.

If we're voting I also vote 'leave as is' - and the kitchen does look good 👍.

1 in 60 is fine on paper but if you are slightly off when laying the pipes then you've hardly any margin for error. I'd be decreasing the cover on your pipes where they leave the house to get you the little bit more fall. You can have the pipes come though the wall at any depth really, just need sufficient build over the pipe.

Why not face-fix the frame to the wall inside the garage, so that the frame is wider than the opening? If we assume the stop-beads to be 0.75 inch each (a guess) then that gives you a door width of 34.5 inches.

@Kelvin and anyone else in Scotland - a paper that might be of interest highlighting ventilation aspects that affect both MVHR and natural ventilation performance: An assessment of environmental conditions in bedrooms of contemporary low energy houses in Scotland

I got mine from Rytons: https://rts.vents.co.uk/blog/products/acoustic-aircore-and-airliner-sets-background/

Another reason for choosing MVHR is that it may well increase the value and saleability of your properly. I've just received a set of Energy Performance Certificate simulations for my current French refurb (I wanted to make sure I wasn't just missing a band boundary - I'm not). However - leaving aside the (correct) argument that EPCs don't always match reality - without MVHR I'd have been in the middle of band D; with it I'll be in the middle of band C, with no easy upgrade to B. In France, at least, having a poor EPC (E, F or G) can knock tens of thousands off the property value, due to laws that will make them illegal to rent (G from 2025, F from 2028, E from 2034). F and G are already selling at a discount of between 10 and 20%, while A and B sell for a premium (article, in French).

1:60 is fine. Just make sure it goes in to that all the way and doesn't have flatter areas. As the table shows, flatter is ok for heavier flow which you will probably have occasionally. 110mm will flow better than 150mm because the flow is more concentrated/deeper.

For us we provided the window company (Norrsken) with the opening size the TF company would provide and they built the windows to fit with their standard tolerance subtracted from the opening size. Then the installers turned up and fitted. No one ever asked me to provide a fixing schedule or the like. The fitters just did what they do and made sure the windows were secure with the number of fixings they thought suitable. sounds like a serious case of ‘arse covering’ by your window supplier.

Opening measurements to a couple of mm. Installers fix. Gaulhofer. Architects sometimes argue - that whatever they specify, the installers do what they want. And the installers say, the architects don't know what happens in practice so they have to sort it out. The Gaulhofer team were good - not excellent. We needed to ask one specialist to come and sort out our very heavy doors. The architect was not invlved at all.

Don't forget to tie the mesh together where it meets or "they" might get through the "sag".

I'd go for the 600mm X 10m, holes are "squarer".

This is technically a retrofit so 1st floor is new build comprising a buildup of: Inside Interior timber cladding (to be fitted) Service void 11mm OSB - airtightness taped and no additional vcl 140mm stud wall filled with Thermafleece sheepswool insulation 50mm cross battens filled with Thermafleece (this layer is meant to be on the outside of the frame) Breather membrane Battens and ventilated cavity Cladding Outside Roof buildup similar but thicker insulation and thicker cross batten layer outside the joists. Plywood as ceiling finish Ground floor, mostly existing except for some new extension work: Inside Plasterboard/skim (quite a bit still to be fitted) Service void Gypsum plaster parge coat for airtightness Clay brick Cavity - varies 35-75mm Clay brick or sandstone (depending on which wall) 140mm Woodfibre EWI Lime based Baumit thin coat render Outside Ground floor suspended floor buildup: Inside Floating timber floor Cork underlay TG4 18mm OSB Joists filled with 150mm cellulose insulation Breather membrane Outside Interior volume is about 500m3 Occupancy is family of 4. Wife works mostly from home. I work a lot from home. Boys are around pre and post school minus evening sports clubs. 1 dog. No trickle vents anywhere. I've used acoustic vents through the walls so that I can have both cross ventilation through the house in two directions and have ventilation through each individual room when a window is opened. I have a centrally located staircase acting as a stack with two large tilt and turn windows giving ventilation out of the top of the house sited on the North face. We have large windows on 1st floor which are North and South Facing but use a designed large roof overhang which almost completely shades the windows from direct sunlight in summer. Solar gain right now is brilliant but need to work on something for late spring and autumn as had some heat issues during those periods last year but wanted to leave it a couple of years to see how it goes over time and work something out. I'm currently running with only one vent completely open in the kitchen area and had a peak of 907ppm CO2 in the TV area after everyone was watching TV for a while during the evening, now settled down to 780ppm as I write this. As the weather gets warmer I'll crack open a couple more vents. I've actually still got some to install on the ground floor.