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I wasn't referring to products in the brand - just to any product suitable for professionals.

No . It’s being used . PW and SE are both charging EV…

There are flue systems that can also supply an external air feed, but I expect they're expensive. Anyone heard of running two flue pipes up the chimney to use one for an air feed? You'd have to get some separation at the top end obviously.

You can do this. Calculating the percolation rate requires a spade for a small hole, a bucket and a watch. It is not worth fiddling the results as it is you who will have stinky ground. read here and come back with any queries. https://www.jdpipes.co.uk/knowledge/sewage-treatment/how-to-perform-a-percolation-test.html then write it up on a posh table to inspire confidence.

Great help, thanks! 👍

I suppose he used screw terminals did he? Leaving the install open to screws loosening over time. WAGOs all day long for me. Maintenance free to all intents and purposes.

Better than a ladder, but only if it is sitting flat on the floor, not up steps.

Clearly @pocster knows different 😂

Is it a groundbearing floor or suspended? Pipe along the skirting? Doesn't have to be round. 60mm dia for a 5kW burner if I recall and prorata mm2 for smaller or bigger.

The subject is in my expertise, but it is complex. Would need to know what you have proposed. Using a crate manufacturer can save having to use a consultant, but you know the answer will be lots of crates. My interest has generally been to avoid lots of crates using other solutions. Even then, there may be other considerations eg soakaway location and design. The query re drainage field etc doesn't seem to make complete sense....I think bco trying to be helpful but getting in a muddle re terms. As ProDave says....have you a percolation test? What are your results? With more info perhaps we can help.

Presuming the private access road goes all the way to the back, would it not be better to make your parking space in the back garden?

No. That is a very good thing and gets you a lot more heat as well as reducing ash. I meant a specific air feed from outside to the back of, or even connected to, the stove. Search for 'wood burner external air feed'

If its for your house, use kore, isoquick, econekt (izodom) or similar. Uiull get a custom made system with support from the supplier and likely better end result. I used Kore, cheap and designed by TSD above ( search tanners) worked fine and much easier than you library image.

Gripfill. Once stuck down, absolutely solid.

Hi @Ferdinand, thank you again. I agree that starting with the plot is essential, certainly this is something ive thought about, light throughout the day is very important. North is top. Which is where the view is. The sun rises on the right, into the kitchen and dining area in the morning. Sun moves round the bottom and to the left. light is captured by the front windows and sines through to the rear library, lighting it but not directly with sun (my preference). west windows are to a minimum to avoid summer overheating, as a low summer sun is hard to shade out and therefore overheats houses. Late summer sun will actually travel all the way round to the left and lights up the trees at the rear turning them gold. Its incredible and exactly why the library looks out that way for amazing evening sitting. hopefully that gives some more context. much work still to do.

Here's a thread on a similar issue. It went to the planning inspectorate and the OP of the thread won. link

No no you're all wrong and I am too genius to take advice! OK OK seriously, as with many things in life I struggle a lot with 'the things I don't know that I don't know'. For example I had to find out at some point that I needed more detailed SE drawings, and for that I needed soil samples taken and for that I needed to .. etc. It's all not "rocket science" but finding this out step by step costs a _huge_ amount of time, which was just the thing I tried to avoid... (fail). But like you said @Gus PotterI actually did pay people for their advice. I've paid 3-5-900 quid one-off consultancy fees to the likes of builders to look over my (then-)current plans, architects and project managers to tell me what stuff I needed to take care of urgently, M&E team to design a good heating system. And at the same time all of them predicting I could start building in 3-max-4 months from now for sure.. (that was early 2021..) And even after this paid-for advice I had those advisors forget to mention things like soil samples, soakaway testing. I might've paid the wrong people, who knows. Not that they were dumb or inept, they might just have were creators, not teachers, or who knows maybe I didn't listen properly, I'm sure I made many mistakes (made wrong assumptions) myself too. And I'm not even sure, after these 3 years of house design, if i could comfortably advise the next person who walks into the door. But at least Ive had a good amount of extra eyes, esp thanks to buildhub, to look at the things I've been doing. And ha, even this late in the game @Adsibob is suggesting a few items I certainly need to take another look at. I'm fairly sure my basic design is solid and buildable, and I have good confidence I found a decent team that's not over-charging.. (one tender just came back at nearly double the quote of my first choice). Phew, and the ride is just starting.

For a bit of fun.. but seriously. As a ball park on TF to start a comparison spread sheet does this fly? A joiner + labourer will make about 3-4 wall panels a day on site, some may be 4.8 m long, some 3.6m long if they have the panel drawings. The idea is that you can lift them into place with two men and brace. Say a joiner cost £220 a day and the labourer £120 / day. For your spread sheet say labour is £340 per day for 4 panels at 3.6m long .. each panel costs £85 to put together plus the cost of material. The panel consists of the timber, the ply / osb sheeting, lintels, breather membrane and crucially the poly prop straps to let the brickie identify where the nails for the wall ties need to go. But it rains and mistakes get made so allow £150 per panel. When a mistake gets made the timber gets recycled into noggings. Yes I said £85 per panel but just go for £150.00 per panel for now. To make this work you need to set up a saw bench on site, spend time reading the drawings so allow £500.00 for that. Next look at the stud height. For basic initial pricing go for a 145 x 45 (C24 grade timber) deep stud as this lets you go to a 2.7m ceiling height structurally without drama (covers most parts of the UK in terms of wind loading also) and leaves you plenty room for insulation of your choice. Yes you can go a lower grade of timber say C16 but stick with this C24 for now. Now if you have a house that is of reasonable size then you'll need some internal racking walls to stop the thing blowing down in the wind. Now two folk can erect about six panels a day by hand.. does not sound like much but there are other things they need to do.. put in temporary bracing, read drawings, have lunch..talk about things..fix it down so £ 340 / 6 = about 60£ quid per panel to erect, fix and have a fag and a bit of a think about what you are going to do next. A common mistake folk make is that when they go to get their roof priced is that the don't tell the truss designer where the the internal supporting structural walls are.. that is one reason for all the confusion on roof truss pricing. For all. When you are trying to do your reasearch on how much things cost.. try this.. start from basics. measure the perimeter of your outside walls. Just as an aside.. the truss manufacturers use a high grade timber TR26 grade ( they test their nail plates with with this timber grade) but often with attic trusses we need timber depth to get insulation in anyway.. so we can use a lower grade timber in a cut roof! In summary from following what BH folk are saying I get a feeling that the cut timber roof and stick built TF may be up for revival? I wonder if the numbers above float the boat.. of course you need the panel drawings / cutting schedule and material list.. allow £1.5k - 2.0 k (plus support and professional advice on the other aspects of the build for that and compare with the TF supplier. I think you may be in for a pleasant surprise! I have a suspicion that the TF and Truss suppliers are milking it..why.. because I have a load of my domestic builder Clients at my door asking me for stick built panel drawings and design calculations..

Don't forget to make a note of what you change and what it was before!

My risk-averse suggestion for that would perhaps be a decorative light fitting that hangs the bulbs 3.5m lower, and a telescopic feather duster. 😁. Though one of the glories of LED bulbs is that they all last for years.

I just wanted to say yes so that I felt useful .

Or a wank

Plus photos

Address please ?

You can spend a lot of spondulies on this stuff and then have SWMBO ask, with a quizzical look if it was all worth it. And in most cases the more you've spent the harder that justification goes. Being able to turn on the heating when you are an hour or so away from home is one good and justifiable use case - unless you live in a well insulated almost passivHaus house in which case it's nonsense. In our current house it's a good thing to have, in the new build not so good. In an old house it's easy and relatively cheap to achieve with for example a Honeywell Evohome system - there are other suppliers. When you are away, having lights come on as if you are home is also useful. Again easy to achieve with some plug in wifi sockets and table or standard lamps - we have some sonos jobbies and use a 'scene' in Google home to turn them on at dusk and off at 10:30. Again simple and easy and cheap to do. In the new build though...... Actually, we're really struggling to find good solutions where we use normal wiring and can have both at the wall switch control as well as some programmed stuff. And we also will have to manage rooflights and outdoor blinds.... The main thing is it has to be usable from a simple wall panel or it gets too faffy. Hmmm need to turn the angle of the blinds a bit - 'shit, where's my phone...' 'can someone call me, I can't find my phone?' 5 minutes later and the cloud has moved on... Simon