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I’m working my way through a load of back copies of Build it that my friend has finished with and saw this article and thought it was good advise

Is it to late to reject these doors It should be the window companies problem Not yours

Hi have got up to wall plate and braced the walls, also fitted the pole plates to the walls for the floor joist so the fixings will be set into the concreate. The second pour was Thursday and all went well, so will be building up the gables over the Easter brake and then onto cutting in the roof. So making some progress.

Would normally expect dpm below insulation /slab with vcl/slip layer between insulation and screed. Check MIs and BBA cert

What about a VCL?

Doesn’t really matter. As long as it ties together then it’s fine. If you’re using a flow screed though, add another slip membrane above the insulation to stop the screed flowing down between the insulation sheets.

I thought you said you had them?, not enough?

I’ve used GEC for multiple Conections Like many they are a middle man company But will do you a plan and a quote for Gas Electric and Water Very unlikely to coordinate all three together I ran my water and two ductings in the same trench and back filled They seamed ok with that

If these are sliding patio doors, can you just have a 50mm wide transition piece from the (say) 18mm wood floor down to the 10mm threshold? You may find the flooring supplier will do one or know someone who can machine it.

Ha, my complaint about all you guys is that nobody summarises the 'final conclusion'. Post 1: "I'm doing abc, xyz, solution yada yada" Post 2: "You should do thisandthat" Post 3: "And this" Post 4: "Don't forget somethingorother" Post 5: "THANKS ALL" Where me, as an absolute beginner often can't quite piece together the actual bestest roof (for one, the topic started with GRP, which I was planning to opt for, but all you guys are doing EPDM ) @Temp: do you agree that: GRP Fibreglass OSB 18mm 200mm PIR insulation A Vapor Layer OSB 18mm Joists I beam 15mm Plasterboard. Would make a pretty good roof? ?

The final utility connection is normally done by the monopoly company for water, gas, electric and phone. You can do the sewer yourself / your contractor. Electric you run duct from the road to the inlet point, water run MDPE pipe from the boundary to your stopcock. Gas like you to leave them an open trench. They seem to really like turning up when the scaffold is down and everything else is done, then getting you to dig out a trench.

Just use a board way easier.

Hi Just joined this thread due to looking for something else. When I look at your pic and how old the place is then read an architect has specified K11 then someone else using it on other farm buildings that will now be ruined, I despair. In a nutshell I am a chartered builder and work in conservation carrying out historic survey and consultancy advice. Ben recorded a podcast a short while ago and explains everything about what you have and how it will work without any K11 or anything else that is sold by chemical companies. Please have a listen then make you mind up. Thanks https://www.buildingsustainabilitypodcast.com/guests/ben-kerslake/

If those blocks were to "accidentally" fall on the walk on glazing that would at least solve one problem.

If only 100mm, you will need a slight fall so 75mm, cast a concrete “ring beam” to the level you want and fill with stone/dust to create a flat (ish) area !

it's a thermosphon. Cold in at the bottom, hot water rises as it's less dense. What temperature is the stat set too, and how long are you leaving it on for?

Made these stairs today. £100 of timber and about 6 hours. 3400mm going and 3000mm rise, 900mm tread width. Made with 225x50mm cls. The lack of a protractor and basic trigonometry skills easily added two hours to the build time. Might be able to repurpose them for the basement if they survive. (Yes, handrail etc to be added)

So, this heat pump thingy... One of the advantages of getting all the kit up and running is being able to monitor and if necessary reconsider things. And so after a couple of weeks running we came to the conclusion that the two bigger upstairs bedrooms- both North facing- did need radiators after all. Pipes were already laid in so a quick trip to Screwys for a pair of 600x1200 double convectors and... done. I raised the flow temperature from the ASHP to get meaningful heat and paradoxically this has improved economy. I'll probably need to explain that bit. So I'm trying to be all things to all men without using any fancy control strategies. Flow from the heatpump passes through the TS at all times. But when there are no demands the TS coil is gated/bypassed, to stem any convective losses. Return from the TS is available to both the UFH and rad manifolds. If neither of them demand, an autobypass ensures there's still flow. All the pumps stats and zone valves are on a separate RCBO to the ASHP so that in emergency/power outage the heating system can run off the TS- heated by the boiler stove. The ASHP controls on DHW tank temp, and also on buffer/ return temp. It has programmable hysteresis and overshoot for each. The upside of this and fitting the rads? Flow from the ASHP is naturally higher than return so more energy into the bottom of the TS. The ASHP setpoint is 32c (return) but the flow could be up to about 40c to get it there. Hence the TS now has enough energy in it to impart heat to the house. Nice. And the extra heat in the two upstairs beds means no cool air falling into the hall. Even nicer. TLDR: That extra energy means that the TS actually buffers, so the HP is running less and longer. Whole house is at an indicated 19c but the slab heat makes it feel much warmer. Almost too warm already... and that's at a consistent 10kWh/overcast day and cool night. Clear sun is already getting the top of the tank up to 75-85c on the diverter and on days like the the ASHP consumption is down at around 5kWh. And I've finally got the monitoring software set up for the PV. Yay! Took a while but we got there...

@Tomfromsurrey Better to walk away ready to fight another day. Imagine what is lurking underneath if that roof is what’s on show. I put a deposit on a plot and walked away when things didn’t add up, lost loads, don’t worry move on.

I think your toothbrush needs to be at least 2m from the WC pan...

Cost/work benefit, cost an additional feet verses shifting stone/dust and levelling and compacting ?.

There’s 2 sumps lower than the concrete so everything runs into there . I want the paving to be level with the doorway . Could put a slot drain in . But it’s all more work ! ?