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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/20 in all areas

  1. Had the same conversation today, told him what I’ve been told on here, he’s baffled why I want a blending valve but will send one if I’m happy to pay for it.
    2 points
  2. Ask them to guarantee the output of the ASHP, and warranty against any floor damage in the event that the ASHP overheats the floor. And then fit a blending valve....
    2 points
  3. Thanks everyone for the warm welcome and to Russell especially for the heads up about TBC; it's always good to know who the big cheese is and who one should be deferential towards! ? Peter, some pic's for you - nothing very interesting I'm afraid. Currently, the whole structure is wrapped in a breathable membrane (a cheap version of Tyvek) and looks dreadful. The chap one can just see in the corner of the final image (pic #4) is our local village chippy who helped with the main construction of walls and roof. A great bloke, a good carpenter and super quick. From the base frame, (pic #3) to the main structure being completed - including two windows - took just eight days. It would have taken nearer eight months if I'd been working alone! Tim. #1. Studio Site Diseased apple tree and Leylandii hedging subsequently removed. Just behind the figure (my wife, Pam) you can just make out the corner of the summer house which you can see in pic #2, below. #2. Concrete Piers 24 concrete blocks used in total - much cheaper than using bespoke products. #3. Base Frame This is secured to the concrete blocks with steel angle brackets and 80mm long 10M concrete screws. The 200mm long battens at the bottom of the 5" x 2" joists are for the 100mm insulation to sit on to ensure it doesn't fall out. #4. OSB Sheathing Going Up The large aperture on the end elevation is where the entrance door will go (currently the entrance to our bungalow which is due to be replaced). The openings in the right elevation are for two windows bought from a supplier of misfits for £190 including the glazing and VAT! So, that is in fact the total cost of windows and doors - which is often a big chunk of the budget for a project like this.
    2 points
  4. Ditra is what I always buy As I get a good deal on it But both fo the same job If you are buying as a one off Dura is cheaper
    1 point
  5. I used the schluter product and it was easy to use. If I remember rightly somebody used a matting on here (buildhub) that delaminated, the fabric backing separated from the plastic top and this created a tile that sounded hollow underneath when walked on
    1 point
  6. I think 6 and two 3's TBH. What is the cost difference? If negligible, then let your preferred tradesman choose his own weapons
    1 point
  7. The SE who did my basement now works here https://www.buildcollective.co.uk looks like they cover a range of services so maybe worth a call also.
    1 point
  8. Greetings, just up the road from you at J8/9. Personally, I would not get too fixated on a build system until you have a design that works for you and your plot - and planning! Pretty much any build system can work with any design whether it's trad brick and block, SIPs, timber frame or ICF. There are cost/time/performance trade-offs between all approaches but I'd work on that as the second step once you have a design, and planning. Post planning, we went round the houses on ICF, SIPs and TF before settling on the latter for above ground as we could guarantee airtightness and insulation with that particular contractor. Basement was cast in situ concrete. The only caveat to all that is if you are planning to do the majority of construction yourself, in which case ICF is probably the best system for 'DIY' (however still a lot of skilled tasks required there).
    1 point
  9. A tool as simple as a water level, £17 in Screwfix, will be your friend. You set your 4 corners using the water level then string line in between.
    1 point
  10. You can Dot and dab the insulation board directly onto the brick Then skim the plasterboard face
    1 point
  11. I'd run a line of silicone on the wall and screw the channel onto that making sure it oozes out the screw holes. Then wipe ALL traces of silicone from within and outside the channel. Use cheap baby wipes for this, it works a treat. Do not block that channel with silicone. Any water that gets in there needs to be able to run downward. EDIT: I take no credit for the above. Seem to recall it and the baby wip tip, being the word of wisdom from @Nickfromwales.
    1 point
  12. Thanks I’ll chase this up
    1 point
  13. Well @GaryM, I've had a few years of JustBloodyDoItFirst swiftly followed by RepentAtLeisureLater. There's a lot to be said for the approach, and often just getting on with it is useful. Just ask @Onoff But - cladding - everyone and their dog will be looking at it. And I don't want to be wincing every time I look at it. Ok so far. BUT - using vertical boarding - just like the image you posted @GaryM; What happens with 'visual' interruptions like doors and windows - annoying things that they are? I think I have to treat any total wall width as a series of gaps - for example in a wall with one door in the middle of the wall, the gaps might be from left to right (LH) edge of wall to (LH) edge of door above door (RH) edge of door to (RH) edge of wall In this scenario (using vertical boards) I'd want a whole board on the left hand edge of the wall the right hand edge of the wall the left hand edge of the door the right hand edge of the door That makes three spans. And in one (or more) of those spans I bet , there will be tears, wailing and gnashing of teeth. But I have a table saw. And persistence.
    1 point
  14. Sounds interesting Strawman. I've got details coming out my ears, so just ask away. The covering is scaffolding sheeting and has been absolutely invaluable, so much easier than heavy tarps. It comes in rolls of assorted widths, is lightweight but strong, and is fully waterproof. Very easy to attach to appropriate points and we use a combination of staples, cable ties and nailed or screwed strips of timber. The best part is its transparency, meaning the interior is not in darkness. We too are totally offgrid, currently with 1kw solar pv and battery bank. I prefer to use an inverter so we can use conventional appliances. Just last week we added an under counter freezer to our facilities. I also use a wee inverter genny to run the workshop.
    1 point
  15. You're on shaky ground making statements like that...
    0 points
  16. There is really no need to be daunted. As it happens I know that @Onoff is a little old lady with an umbrella on a mobility scooter, as per the pic below. The hand you sometimes see pointing in the photos is left over from a postman who wasn't quick enough. She has it mounted on the end of a selfie-stick.
    0 points
  17. You're telling me it's finished? *faints*
    0 points
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