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Is acceptable to disconnect one for a couple of days, you might be able to pin point which one is at fault, then change it or look for possible causes easier.

Given the need to to insulate the ducting going to/from the MVHR unit (which, in my case, is installed in an unheated loft space which is a bit cramped given it's what's left of the roof space in our 2.5 storey house) I was wondering how best (read: easiest!) to do this. Here's my unit which as you can see I went with rigid smooth-wall piping for the unit-to-manifolds where possible and aluminium semi-rigid ducting for the final connections so as not to transmit vibration-induced noise (the whole unit is sat on a frame sitting on rubber exhaust mounts so is fairly free-floating): I did consider flexible insulated ducting for these final connections but didn't fancy wrestling with it to ensure it was taught enough to avoid flow restrictions. The idea did however occur to me though that it would make an ideal outer insulation layer for my ducting and as I hadn't heard of others doing so (maybe for good reason!) I thought I'd share what I did... My ducting is 125mm and so to ease fitting of the insulated ducting - particularly round bends - I bought the next size up (150mm) and taped the ends to keep things clean and easy to handle (the inner core, vapour barrier, insulation and outer layer are all separate and can move around a bit when manhandled): After stretching out the insulated ducting and cutting to length I then compressed it back over a section of rigid ducting: I then refitted the ducting, taped up the inner ducting joints... ...and expanded the insulation round giving what I thought was quite a neat final installation with no joins: Not only was it easy to fit but with the ends taped it provides what I assume to be a decent vapour proof insulation layer, which I believe is important. I also went for the acoustic insulation option (it has small holes in the inner core to allow sound through to be absorbed by the insulation layer) although this was more down to 'why not?' than any particular need as the unit is fairly quiet in operation. As I said, just though I'd share this in case the method is of use to anyone else.

Just a thought. You are going to want regular access to that, in what looks like an awkward loft space that is going to be insulated. I would suggest you make a raised walkway above the height of the insulation to make easy access to it. This is how I did it in our previous house

Overlooked by sussexlogs

No he's only got the frame in and not the pan yet.

so, all your jobs are complete then??

?

?‍♂️ (Could not find an iMogi with tongue sticking out j

I take it back. Yours IS neater that @joe90's. Have none of you read @PeterStarck's blog? ?

no, my bath, kitchen sink and showers are all 15mm, basins and toilets in 10mm ?

I think I would like to say a couple of things there. For long term considerations. 1 - I think your driveway width may be your most significant hard policy constraint. 2 - Is there a danger that the Council will just say "Backlands Development", and kick it out on its ear? That could be a policy question, but also depend on how tightly the particular Councils stick to that policy. Potentially a very important issue. Needs to be resolved, as you know. 3 - Even were I planning only to build one, I would form my plans to leave space such that another could be added later - either as an annexe or a separate dwelling (or an annexe that could be converted later). There are imo 2 reasons for doing that: a - Financial future. If your pension evaporates, as a chunk of mine did at one point, you have a possible remedy. Having something that can give you a boost of 10s of k could be a strong item of buried treasure should you need it. if someone needs somewhere to live, you have something which can be potentially utiliised. b - If it helps you get PP. If the Council write it off as backlands, then putting an extra property or two on there (which you don't necessarily have to build - though there may be other considerations for demonstaarting completion for VAT etc) may put it into a different category in Planning eyes, and help you (eg a minor development or cul-de-sac). In that case your entrance width will matter - but matter somewhat differently in every place. It is all a balance, but I thought that deserved a mention. Ferdinand

That’s exactly what I did, with 15mm to showers, works great ? one fir hot and one fir cold. (Not the neatest instal but pipes went in early)

I was due to be writing about the happy day when my SIPS kit arrived on the Island, but instead I find that I have closed up the site and reduced outgoings as much as possible because the SIPS team can't be accomodated and fed on the Island given current restrictions, and travelling the length of the country is hardly sensible conduct at this stage. Just so there is something to see from the site, here is the beam and block floor going in. Close to 1000 blocks and 68 beams placed in 3 days by 3 people and 1digger. The white blocks have good thermal properties and will be used along with a PIR insulation upstand at the sole plate interface to reduce the thermal bridge. So now I have to find something else to write about. I haven't said much here about the house design and my goals. Here are the floor plans as submitted for planning permission. Chris (my architect) and I spent time discussing dimensions and circulation spaces but the overall concept remains to my original plan. The only change from planning to build is that the main bathroom has been flipped so that the large cupboard will double up as a service access. These pictures show the elevations (apart from north west - which is really boring). The planners decided I had to have real wooden cladding instead of cedral. Bricks were similarly not allowed. You may ask why there isn't a window in the obvious place on the SW elevation. It makes the bedroom layout impossible! The master bedroom has a vaulted ceiling, so the half round window will provide light from the SW and the window on the SE will provide a good view of the garden. I have designed a sundial to fit in the place where one might otherwise have expected a window. The house will be a SIPS panel build, aiming for a good SAP A rating without "cheating" by putting a vast solar PV power station on the roof. Because of the design of the roof, based on SIPS panels and purlins, the attic space is open. This gives a good amount of space for hobby rooms or allows eventual accomodation of 6 double bedroooms. There is a designed in space for a spiral staircase to access the attic. There is no mains gas and I am not keen on burning things within the house so it will run on electricity. I plan to fit 6.6kW of solar PV panels (apprx 20) on the southern roof space. This should generate sufficient energy for 60% to 80% of hot water and heating needs. Heating and cooling will be provided by a ducted airconditioning system and hot water by a thermal store or unvented cylinder driven by an immersion heater. I will be allowing provision for water heating by ASHP but initially this seems unnecessary. Similarly, I am provisioning space for a battery storage system but will wait for battery pricing to drop. I will be installing a rain water capture system and using it for toilets, garden and probably clothes washing. I know the payback is long, but my building inspector is quite keen I make an effort at meeting the water use targets, and this tips the balance and allows the bath that the boss has asked for. Final SAP rating for the design was 96 (with limited solar PV) and well over 100 with the full 6.6kW.

Continued... So basically your builder has to do the calculation.

You could get several houses on 0.5 acre. Would it be worth just demolishing the whole bungalow to make a much nicer access road complete with pavements both sides or tree lined? Might increase the value of the new houses?

We have Porcelanosa WCs with Noken in wall cisterns. The cisterns look very similar to Geberit ones to me. I think the plumber ignored the measurements and set them to fill to the maximum level possible. I don't know if it is this or just the design of these cisterns but they send the water into the bowl with way more force than the toilets we used to have. The water definitely travels faster and leaves the bowl a lot cleaner. If you look at the design of the even the cheap concealed Geberit cistern it sits about a foot above the bowl, so maybe that helps compared to a close coupled toilet. My wife just told me that we have a friend with a son who has a similar problem and constantly blocks the toilet in their house. He had zero issues when they stayed with us for a week. You might also disconnect the half flush so they can only use the full flush.

You need to be within 600mm for it to work properly. You also need to keep the nozzle a uniform distance from the what you are painting. The sprayers need lots of prep and cleanup. Any lumps in the paint are a no-no. If the surface is good, the finish is excellent, but you cannot touch in any mess-ups without it showing.

Wouldn’t get away with that on a big site-mixing materials with different Newton’s plus different rates of expansion for the render. Whdre possible,I bond my corners block to block I.e. lose the 100mm piece. For course 2,I cut a 330mm block to give half bond one way,& use the 110mm offcut the other way to give half bond both directions. If not fair faced,you can just judge the 110mm by using your 100mm bolster 10mm in from the end of the block. Saves you getting your tape out constantly & 4 cuts gives your 8 courses worth.

Or Marianne Faithfull. . . . The shots of her in a black leather catsuit from the film "The Girl on a Motorcycle" are indelibly etched in my memory, together with Mars bars . . .

Have you got a large poster?

A tongue in cheek one would be good too.

I've been looking for one of those for ages and all I can find is emojis.

Under a leak is it?

Neater??? Wtf dies yours look like then?

ok, so yours is bigger than mine (and neater) ? but I have to say basins run in 10mm gets hot water very fast (at least mine is finished ?????)