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It will be fine. If we don't hear back we will assume the worst!

Cos he hasn't got enough buckets to collect from where it drips from the roof....

I think you may be right, he gave me the impression that yes like you say below stream level to reach firm ground.. but this reached in only inches rather than anything dramatic. Anyway I've just measured up & I'm going for a 3M (or 3.5m) x 3m, new cabin. So now I can build footings on the exact periphery walls. In mind this one altho no thicker 45mm wall option or double glaze options.. sure would look purty & pitch of roof would compliment my house opposite end of gdn.. https://www.tuin.co.uk/Skov-Log-Cabin-3.5x3m.html

If this is a standard 3x3 cabin then you’re talking 7-800kg at most. 9 concrete pillars is a little overkill ....

It's when you get blocks like yours that are 95mm but the concrete bricks they supply are 104mm that the fun starts.

Or a good run of Kwikstage

I just wanted to say hi, and to let you know that i have found this site great. I have done the whole thing on my own so far. (Two houses in the greenbelt) I have done all the drawings by hand, because i am rubbish with computers. I have done all the studies myself, such as sight lines, bulk, mass, sight coverage etc, and the design and access statement (72 pages) I know the NPPF backwards, forwards, and sideways. It has been very hard work, but basically has only cost me £840. Which was the application fee to the council. I spoke to several Architects, and a number of planning consultants, who frankly all seemed more interested in getting my money, than actually trying to understand what i was trying to achieve. I was quoted between 15 and 20 thousand total to get me to planning..... If i manage to get my application through, i will have saved a lot of money.......If, that's the question. But , to be honest it has been very, very hard work... Would i do it again on my own....Hell yeah, but only after a bloody long break, and a damn good holiday.

Yes, it's normal. Many of the dimensions used in building are not exact, some because we've metricated imperial measurements, some because traditionally dimensions were for pre-finished materials, and some because dimensions are just rounded up or down to make them easier to refer to.

I could pull two tiles and put these vents in quicker than you could get the core drill out to do the first hole.... If the intake / exhaust are going to be more than 1-2m then they need to be properly insulated.

But you can manage 30,000 feet as long as it's in First Class?

Resting around the pool ‘thinking’ before my Tai Chi session ( yang style apparently) . Tbh a day never goes by ( even on holiday ) without me thinking about the build ...

Aren’t you supposed to be on holiday in Lubricious, with your Truss left at home?

Think you'll want 22mm rather that 18mm chipboard t&g with 600mm centres.

BS 5268 Part 3 requires the build of a platform on a truss roof in a particular way...?? https://www.minera-rooftrusses.com/pdf/tech_specs/cold_water_storage_tank.pdf

Why have you got one of those?

Water tanks need a specific design for the platform. It’s in the standard details.

Yeh but how do they know you've built one? Materials could feasibly pass as wastage on house. Any way I do actually want the official answer

That is for 10% compression, though. Typical values for a more-realistic 1% strain are a little less than half that: (i.e, EPS 100 = 45 kPa, EPS 200 = 90 kPa). But, yes, it doesn't take a lot of spreading for these to take a lot of load. https://www.insulationshop.co/image/catalog/pdf/Jablite/Jablite-EPS.pdf

First explore the difference between the two different sets of founds. I would think the extra to do it now may be negligible. A deeper slab or perimeter need not look much different to the simple one, surely?

Welcome. My personal view is that I'd be extremely cautious about using anyone that uses one of the commission-based trade comparison sites, like Checkatrade, or the others. My own experience has been that the people who advertise services on those sites are those that cannot get work any other way. 99% of the good people will have more than enough work from word-of-mouth recommendations, so will never see the need to pay to advertise on sites like these. The really good people we've employed have all had full order books just from recommendations. None advertise anywhere, you'd have no way of finding them other than by word of mouth. In our case our ground works team recommended a brick layer, who turned out to be very good. He recommended a renderer/plasterer, who was equally good, and in turn he recommended a joiner and an electrician. None of these people advertised anywhere, other than being listed in a couple of local trade directories. Same goes for the chap that did all our landscaping work, and laid our drive, he doesn't advertise either and I only found him as a result of a neighbour recommending him.

Fitting the extract...or not... I wanted it on the wall, up high, SHE wanted it on the ceiling. Came round to the ceiling as dead central to the tile (aesthetically best) would have put it firmly in Zone 1. Besides, because of the rainfall head being a "fixed shower head", Zone 1 extends to that height. So on the ceiling tight to the mitred wall to miss the joist above. The ideal was mid way between mitred wall and rainfall head like this: Except, as I said there's a joist and the hole would have gone right through it. As aforementioned very conscious of the joist above... It should have missed the joist by a mile... Except that...I forgot the ceiling joists aren't parallel to the room walls from when I squared the room up! The bathroom wall this end is about 3" further into the room. It's going here now though I'll just sister a joist alongside the "scalloped" one. It's a bitch scalloping a 145mm deep joist! Multitool, break off bits, drill, multitool repeat. ?

The mix isn't wet. It's more like a kerb mix. Set your fall up with conc bed then put pipe on the fill around and on top

If it’s anything like the Inverness store the discounts start ramping up pretty quickly as the close date draws near, i kept popping in until what I wanted had 80% off. Got a whole load of door hardware for 90% off. Stoked.

Tbh it’s normally bedded with 20mm and then encased on top / around the sides and job done.

Good recommend as it is often the case that windows are let down by install. Ideally best to have someone do the whole job so you are not left with issues. Often I have used approved installers who are really slapdash. They send semi skilled teams who just want to screw the windows in the holes and on to the next job.

At-Eco were the ones that did the Charlie Luxton fit (there is a u tube). Superb install from the video, nothing remotely like ours or others on here with other suppliers.

Hi Mr Punter, At-Eco do both supply and supply and fit. My builder was going to do the fitting but given the volume of glass and the size of the triple glazed panes we decided it was better to put the risk on At-Eco rather than a small builder. The installers laser-levelled all the windows during installation and were happy to work around my builders.