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Guttering complete, scaffolding away, MVHR complete. photos!

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Just had email + callback from Sunamp support! (Big thanks to JSHarris for pointers) It appears that: 1. The heater is '3rd party element' with life expectancy only 2-3 years. Supposedly £30-ish to get the new one. 2. Black overtemp switch is bad, white one is good. 3. Software update (aka new pcb + white switch in the post ) And - Sunamp seems recommending HydroFlow HS38 conditioner thingimagick - but does it actually work for anyone here? So... support is there, its just hard to find

Pause function when the phone rings, pulse function to simmer, boost function. I'd say they're MORE controllable than gas.

My room was so out of square and I wanted inset, illuminated pockets that I battened everything square. Tbh it was more like hanging stud walls on the walls.

I dealt with one with a stick when I was about 9. It didn't go well

I made a gadget to blow powder into a wasp nest entry hole, whilst standing a safe distance away. Works really well:

I dealt with one on the "squirt and run" principle last year, Run up the ladder, long squirt in the hole, quickly down the ladder and hide for a while. Once squirted, it seemed to deter the returning wasps from going back in. I previously dealt with one by dressing up in all my motorbike hear including helmet and gloves, then taping all the joints and going in to do the squirting.

Last year we had a huge cloud of wasps coming out of the soffit in a hard to reach place. I drove miles to purchase several cans of wasp killer intending to rig up something on a pole. Got a can tapped to the end of the pole and discovered....the wasps had buggered off on their own. Wasted about three hours.

...I was kidding!

But I reassure myself that I saved at least £50 by shopping around on hinges for the internal doors.

No, the door was not cheap, not much change from £5k. However it is a very nice door. I keep reminding myself of that.

Just a point the tape pictured is one we use for Rendering protection It’s called Jaffa tape Will stick sheeting to bare block and stone No residue At £4 a roll It’s the best I found

Yup - our front door (RK Passive) is just a slab with a keyhole, fingerprint sensor and a bar for pulling it shut behind you. Kids don't have keys, just their fingers on the door.

These are a few of the pics that I took for BC

Technically yes however as a single has no air gap it is not deemed to be sufficient ....

I've noticed that quite a few members of the forum are using or planning to use zinc roofing. It's a system of roofing that has been around for many decades and can be trouble free if detailed correctly however I'm also aware that there have been increasing numbers of problems over recent years with zinc roofs where the roof build-up has been incorrectly specified and zinc can corrode through in less than 5 years if the roof build-up is not what it should be. The attached report from Denmark is a good explanation of the issues to look out for. Durability_problems_with_zinc_cladded_roofs_due_to_inproper_underlays_Erik_2014_01_15.docx

DCV is required after the main stop tap and before any other filters or pressure reducing valves. After that; they are only required where contamination may occur. It is good practice to put single check valves on the feeds to showers

If it has been in use for a certain time don't you acquire a prescribed right of access or something like that?

No. I'm going to mount it horizontally and moan about it at every chance I get like the stubborn git that I am

Prison then executed for certain . Farewell

Make sure you get a full flow/ bore one for your incoming main. ??

Working for a s/w company, I can tell you that it's always broken so needs continual fixing....:)

I think with things like phones it is more about security, rather than new features. Though sometimes they do a major update and the application looks and acts totally differently. And they take away the few features I use.

SBR is also available in 1 litre tubs in Wickes for £7 if you don’t need a lot.

It looks like the foundations have been built for a brick / block cavity wall, with a narrow cavity. You would have real problems now trying to build up on that as a brick / block build as you would now need a wider cavity to get enough insulation in. A timber frame might be feasible on that, with a brick outer, thin cavity and timber frame on the inner leaf. The issue there is most timber frames are now 147mm wide to get enough insulation, but the inner foundation leaf is only 100mm wide. I have seen a 147mm frame built up on a 100mm inner leaf before and building control accepted it, but it is something you would have to check with your building control. This will of course mean all your rooms will be a little smaller as the walls will be thicker to get enough insulation. As already noted you will need insulation on top of the B&B floor so factor in your raised floor level when submitting revised plans to make sure the planning permission reflects the slight increase in the buildings height. I would seek some form of comfort letter from building control that they did inspect the foundations are happy with them to be retained and build to continue from them. And check with the utilities the position of services, in particular water, drainage and electricity.

With you there Lizzie Grew up with Range so seem very old fashioned My wife was quite specific Two high level Neff ovens Induction hob I quite like the ovens up high in a bank At 6”4 I don’t have kneel on the floor to get at the oven Like I did at our previous home

Yes, it would. If the joists have been pre-cambered to the anticipated dead load, as per the spec (and I doubt they were), then measuring the static deflection in the centre of the room, i.e. the distance the centre is lower than the edges, should give an indicator. If the joists were pre-cambered then there should be near-zero deflection, if they weren't then I'd expect to see a small deflection, maybe a mm or two in the centre. The other point is the way the Posijoists are restrained at the ends. If they are fixed such that the top and bottom members are firmly secured then the floor will have a lot less deflection than if they are simple bearing on something like a joist hangar. The latter will allow the joist to pivot slightly under load and exacerbate the centre deflection under load.