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They want the property to look as if the land around it looks as if it belongs to the property. Even if it doesn't.

None at all and the posts before confirm this IMO. Still astounds me that someone so blatantly against the majority here has the cheek to keep posting, and asking for advice.

Try it. I've had my wall chasers hooked up to a 2000W woodworking dust extractor and managed near dustless chasing inside the furnished house. SWMBO didn't seem to think so though! I reckon it was just the bits by the ceiling made the dust when I had to sds chisel them out where the chaser won't go up to.

Evolution Rage 3 with diamond blade? I have the saw and diamond blade and can confirm it works as per the video. I've made up wooden guides to go over blocks before to get a straight line.

Quik answer is no Yiu need to send out a copy of your drawings and a working drawing if possible Showing all dimensions ceiling heights etc

Would it be worth getting outline PP for knock down and rebuild to increase what she would get for the plot?

Mostly nice people to deal with but, in my experience, always seemed to opt for the most expensive solutions which I didn't use as there were lower cost and equally effective ones available. This was particularly the case with piling.

I think @Dreadnaught is about right with his thoughts. The main things affecting £/m2 sale prices and desirability are 1. Location 2. Kerb appeal You cannot do anything about the location if you already have the plot but the front elevation is what people will see on Rightmove so make sure it looks right. For the space you have downstairs: open plan kitchen living dining (with divider if pos), downstairs WC / utility (a utility with a WC), study / desk area. upstairs: 3 beds, 1 bathroom (bath with shower screen), en suite shower (large shower). Wall space for storage in each room. Plan the layout very carefully so you don't have wasted space. Floor coverings: Hard flooring downstairs - same throughout looks sleek. Carpets to stairs and bedrooms. Luxury vinyl tile to bathrooms. Gas CH. Don't bother with UFCH unless you have tiled ground floor. Combi boiler. No home automation.

Early in our design process we looked at loads and started to pick up on these. One particular new build show home actually had no internal doors fitted upstairs as they would have got in the way of the furniture they had staged the rooms with - took a few minutes for the penny to drop. I'd also call into a few local estate agents and ask frankly what sells these days - most of our local ones were good for a bit of a chat, especially if they though there was half a chance they'd get to market the end result. And to the comment on self builders being 'unrealistic', as Jeremy says - the main concern for many of us is getting it built properly and then getting some things you want, budget allowing. Many self builds I've seen are perfectly modest, beautifully built, comfortable to live in and will last the test of time vs the developer boxes that may look nice initially but have a host of hidden nasties (I know, I've owned one) - and they aren't particularly cheap either.

I add just as much value to this forum as you do. My questions originate from genuine onsite hands-on problems to be solved and lead to valuable threads that provide an ongoing reference point for others.

I think you're on the right track - suggest you pop down to your nearest new build development and poke around the show houses, or worst case get on right move and look at them there.

My point is that we have no evidence at all that thin, relatively inflexible, polyethylene DPM sandwiched between layers of concrete ever suffers from any degradation over decades of use, so I can't see any mechanism by which a layer of more robust and flexible EPDM could be a problem when protected this way. This is a drive/parking area, not just a roof, so any waterproofing solution needs to be able to tolerate that sort of wear and tear. In particular, EPDM is poor at tolerating point loads, as might be the case for pavers on pillars, something that seems to have been solved by spreading the imposed load over a wide area with the reinforced concrete capping layer. The architect's solution seems to be sound, in that the waterproof layer never gets exposed to wear and tear, as it's encapsulated within reinforced concrete. What wasn't sound was the implementation of the design; all the problems here seem to be caused by poor workmanship, I can't yet see any problem that is a consequence of the design itself.

Maclennan (for example), (using Newton waterproofing) refused to waterproof externally and would only do an internal cavity drain system. This is what most of the houses further along from you on Banks Road use where it's an extreme case of sea on both sides and built on sand! Basically the system admits defeat, lets water in, but then guides it away.....all of which is going on just behind your plasterboarded walls. I hate the thought of it but by all accounts it is effective. I am happy with my experience of using Godsel Arnold Partnership... @vivienz dealt with them too, I don't know her final opinion...they're local to you, Broadstone.

Hmm, indeed! I think the only bits that worked in mine were things still in the box!

You don't have sitting water on your DPM. Totally different scenario. It's to stop damp coming up not water getting down through it. If having the membrane under concrete was a good idea they would do it on commercial roofs and I've never seen it done in 36 years.

Our bathrooms are next to each other, and there was an area behind the bathroom walls where I could run an extra duct to the manifold, so that's what I did. The pan extract runs all the time, as there is an always-open air way from the space above the water in the cistern to the pan rim flush outlets, via the overflow pipe. This means there's a gentle extract from the pan 24/7.

... anyone... anything .... any pie ..... @daiking what was the issue with the UFH ..? If it is the balancing then tbh it’s now as quick to get the auto balancing heads for the valves and be done with it.

I think this is typical of what can arise from managing things down to the lowest cost base. I'm definately not criticising Hecateh for the situation. I had similar situations on my build too, but more roof related. I first tried a roofer that I saw tiling another self build locally, He was actually a fireman, who like most firemen have a second job. He quoted a good price (£1200) and I had seen his previous work so I set him on. My roof was a bit complicated and he measured it , scratched his head, measured again and then said he had to go and get some more fixings. I never saw him again. Secondly There was a development up my street with a similar tiling system. I asked the lads on the roof if they would quote for mine, cash in hand for a weekend job for them. They quoted £6000. So I bit the bullet and went to a large reputable roofing company. They quoted £1100, did the job in 2 days with no fuss. Sometimes for things that are a bit specialist, you need to use someone who 100% can do the job for the price quoted. Heating system with UFH etc may just be one of those things in hindsight. But you learn from your experiences. I hope they come back and finish the job.

Why not just do all the work you intend and then have the mhrv main use as keeping the air in your house nice and clean. If it recovers some heat then fine. If you have done exceptionally well with all your work and have your house leak free then you will save a bit more.

I'm proud to have a DIY kitchens kitchen. My sister, who has a craft built kitchen, visited them with me and said she would never pay for what she had done again as she loved them.