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Better late than never - a final post for this blog. the house eventually sold on 1st June - two years minus two days since we bought it. the buyer is very happy and so are we. we have had some time away from renovating but new plans are taking shape - not quite what I expected but it will do for now. tell you more soon! ?

Cut a strip to width. Use the offcut for the same bit on the other side.

Either your plastering wasn't as good as we all thought or you've got OTT as usual

Well word came back from the manufacturer this morning that the flow switch is "set at 10 litres per minute +- 3 litres" So I guess my indicated 14 litres per minute just wasn't quite enough. So I fitted a second circulating pump (put back the one I took out when I installed this heat pump) and that pushed the flow rate up to 20 litres per minute and the unit sprang into life, and as I type this is busy heating my water tank.

As those who have read my blog know, I have an 8.5kW Mitsubishi Ecodan and 300 litre preplumb cylinder with UFH, 155m2 slab, no buffer, no PV. I will in the next few weeks be posting on my blog in respect of how the DHW and heating have performed over the course of 12 months. DHW over the course of the year, COP of 2.3, a bit higher in summer, lower in winter. Heating COP of 3.5 No short cycling on the heat pump. Plenty of DHW capacity and fast recovery - despite continuous drawing off of DHW we have not experienced DHW running out or going cool. I did a cost comparison before deciding on the ASHP set up, including Sunamp and PV, but ASHP came out on top taking into account capital, running, service and replacement costs into account. I'll go into more detail in due course, but thought it worthwhile highlighting that an ASHP is a good solution and works well for us.

I have started this thread to discuss all aspects of the LG Therma V Air Source Heat Pump that I am just installing and in particular a control strategy for it. I have the 5KW monoblock version of this unit. But first I want to talk about water flow rate requirements. This is an essential subject, but one completely overlooked in the installation manual, and I could not find anything searching on the internet, so feel it is time for some simple clear and concise information. When I first connected my heat pump and tried to run it, it almost immediately tripped on a "CH14" error which is water flow rate. The installation manual does not quote a minimum or a maximum water flow rate which I find an astonishing omission. Before I did anything else, I went and bought a flow meter and installed that so I had a measure of the water flow rate that I was achieving, and that came back with a figure of 14 litres per minute. It then took an email exchange with LG technical to be told the flow switch is "Set to 10 litres per minute plus or minus 3" So I guess my 14 l/m was just failing to trigger the flow switch. In my case I solved this by adding a second circulating pump external to the heat pump, and that boosted my flow rate to 20 litres per minute and the unit then sprang into life. During my email exchange with LG technical, they sent me a copy of the service manual for this unit. I won't post that for download, but if anyone wants a copy I will send it by email if you send me a PM.

Good luck with the sale Jeremy. It must be a great feeling to be moving on permanently to the new house.

Well it’s certainly over spec ..!!! I’m sure he has his reasons, you won’t have damp issues with that though ..!

Part G of the building regs has it all. Page 36, 125 lt/person.day. Baths can never be big enough.

We bought a bath that was 1900mm long as i wanted to be able to stretch out. Our last bath was a corner bath so it was either top half got wet and legs went up the wall or top dry and bottom wet. I tested lots and lots of baths before I found one that I could lie down in. Near 4 years in I reckon I have used it 5 times. My girls use it more so it's usually full of glitter from bath bombs.

That looks totally open ended to me, unless there are other clauses or definitions, so you could take the space shuttle down there on a low loader in order to BBQ an elephant. F

I would read that clause as being general, as it doesn't specify only vehicles belonging to the owner. just any vehicles needed to access the land

So the access wording is to the land, not a house, so the solicitor can stand down... The issue is the wayleaves and easements to get services on site which is what @JSHarris rightly refers to.

Just add more insulation in steps EPS at 25mm sheets would mean you can step it down roughly (ie 25mm every metre) so it goes 200-225-250-275mm across the room. Stick them together with low expanding foam.

I have the comically enormous bath and never use it because it’s too damn big. You could probably fit 4 people in it if that’s your thing but for the avoidance of doubt it’s not my thing! I only ever use the bath in the other bathroom as it’s smaller. We did give our spec to the TF company and the joists were altered but whether that was driven by the bath alone or simply because the area underneath is very open plan and it was altered because of that (we changed 3 rooms downstairs into one large open plan one) I can’t say. Possibly both. In hindsight however I would not buy the comically enormous bath as it’s a white elephant. I have used it twice in 9 years and that was only for the novelty value.

I bought one of these https://www.bathstore.com/products/salisbury-slipper-bath-with-traditional-resin-feet-1690mm-2197.html and it’s so big I can float in it without touching sides or bottom and I am worried it will not pass regs for a new build as I have heard (somewhere) that water regs dictate how big a bath can be. I love it (but it uses a whole tank of DHW?. I did not worry about floor strength as it was designed for 600mm centres but we installed them at 400mm (I hate floor bounce!) with timber web beams.

https://fascias.com/eaves-protection-system-15m-length-covers-14-metres-seal-joints-with-low-mod-silicone?language=en&currency=GBP&gclid=CjwKCAjwj4zaBRABEiwA0xwsP1ZecIe7lHYk04q6Qim2ZRdA95wsmjL-xcm2nnDOXhOhuoNThqK3SRoCY7wQAvD_BwE Do you have eaves trays?, felt or membrane should not go into gutter as it is not UV stable (and looks horrible and flaps in the wind )

Me too, and I think that's where the post savers come in. If you happen to have some left over flashband and primer, then I reckon that will work as well as a post saver, for a bit more hassle. I have two left over rolls of flashband and a tin of primer that I decided not to use, and plan on priming our next batch of fence posts around the ground level area, then wrapping them with flashband, then giving them a run over with the hot air gun to melt the bitumen on the flashband. I shall report back on how well it works. No cost saving over postsavers I suspect, but in my case it will get rid of a couple of rolls of left over flashband.

Reckon you'll have trouble pressure treating timber yourself as much of it is done this way. Bromide treatment (by brush) is pretty good (enviro friendly?) as long as it won't get wet. Can't see what's wrong with Creosote mixed 50:50 with old engine oil...

Exactly. The only advantage of a heat pump is it's ability to cool, and we find that extremely beneficial (like right now when the house is at 21.5 and it's approaching 30 deg C outside).

Makes sense, as the return line on a GSHP will often run at around -4 to -6 deg C, so ordinary water would definitely freeze. I've often wondered whether adding one of the "water wetter" additives, as used in motor sport cooling systems, might improve heat transfer effectiveness. I remember using it on the (very marginal) cooling system on my Imp Sport engined Clan Crusader and it made a very significant difference. The stuff works by reducing surface tension, I believe, so allowing the liquid to make more intimate contact with the pipes etc.

Let the plasterer dictate that. Just for clarification...... "Get a fackin plasterer or I'll send the boys round". Seriously . Don't make me come down there.