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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/17 in all areas

  1. Call me old fashioned, but to me, a flexi is only for a situation where there is movement between the two items, e.g a heat pump t avoid vibration. they are not a means to join 2 fixed items. People use them all the time to connect to sat a WC cistern, but they use them to avoid accurate fixed plumbing?
    2 points
  2. Hello I decided it was time to retire and downsize to fund my retirement. Took retirement and couldn't find anything I liked at a price I was willing to pay. The main reasons being I have fabulous views over open countryside from my current house and anything modern, which I wanted for ease of maintenance was a tiny little box. So I decided to explore the possibilities of building in my 100' by 40' garden. That was late last year - I am now just a few weeks off the building starting. Planning permission is in place and plans currently with building control. I haven't the first idea what I am doing and am excited and scared in equal measure. Having just read a few posts on here I can see me being a regular visitor and asking lots of questions. I just hope I can understand the answers.
    1 point
  3. evening. We have been advised to make friends with our ward councillor as he will be playing a part in our planning application, has anybody got any tips or pointers on how to go about this the right way. I fancy a meeting in a park with a folded newspaper with a big wedge of £50 notes in it but my wife thinks we should do things correctly. Cheers.
    1 point
  4. Edge of a former pit village. Half a dozen pubs in within about 5 minutes but the country ones are a mile or so away. It is fabulous though. Definitely why I didn't want to move far. That's my view and within a hundred yards on the other side, Coop supermarket, 2 banks, 2 doctors, post office, pubs, etc etc. Oh and 5 mins from the M1 too. Can't beat it
    1 point
  5. Our neighbours have it / something very similar for about 10 years and it still looks as good as the day it was laid, they were very pleased with - moved out 3 weeks back, not sure about its permeability though.
    1 point
  6. It would be the wrong way to do it. Having a UVC sat at 45c - or the most you want an ASHP pushing heat out at - is fine. That would need a weekly legionella cycle to take it to 65c but easily done with an immersion. With the UVC it’s the main body of water that is at mains pressure - a TS has the opposite and does use the coil to preheat. TS is only really useful in this instance if you have multiple heat sources and also use it for buffering for UFH etc. If you pushed to a 400 litre UVC with a heat pump coil it’s unlikely you would need the LPG at all - heat to 60c overnight with E7 and a combination of HP and immersion’s and you probably have enough stored hot water for a full day. It removes the complexity of having LPG and the ongoing service and maintenance costs
    1 point
  7. Just use a 3/4 x 22 bent connector and then a 22 x 15 push spigot reducer ....
    1 point
  8. Ok so it's not paranoid to avoid using them! Shame Hepworth don't appear to do a 3/4x15 bent connector as that would minimise the number of joints in the install. Looks like I'll just have to do the connection in copper and then switch to plastic.
    1 point
  9. If it is being boxed in then don't even consider flexis. Ideally it will all be soldered, with your isolation point somewhere else (more accessible) as once it's boxed in you can't use the isolation anyway.
    1 point
  10. Do you want a simple thermostat or a programmable stat? Heatmiser do a wide range as others have mentioned both 12V and some 230V. You will need to know what your system uses. They even have some with remote sensors for use in bathrooms. Stat goes on the wall outside the bathroom with a remote sensor inside.
    1 point
  11. Is this to control wet underfloor heating, or elect I undertile heating ? The stat I linked is for wet, so no connection for the floor temperature probe.
    1 point
  12. We have Heatmiser Neostat in shiny white. Look very nice, but a pain to operate and the off-white "buttons" against the shiny white background are difficult to see (at least to my middle-aged eyes!). Around £50 + VAT, though make sure you get the right model if you want UFH probe with it.
    1 point
  13. Cheap? https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=ms-android-samsung&sa=X&biw=320&bih=454&tbm=shop&noj=1&q=ufh+thermostat&oq=ufh+thermostat&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.12..0.4762.12075.0.13201.10.7.3.0.0.0.118.615.5j2.7.0....0...1.1j4.64.mobile-gws-serp..0.3.213....0.mf5c_cQf7fU&srpd=1601642334312560179&ved=0ahUKEwjxuPHIy_jWAhVBChoKHe7yA1cQnUAIgAE&prds=pid:1601642334312560179,sgro:iv,mvi:0
    1 point
  14. You can programme the slope of the flow temperature versus ambient temperature with a bit of faffing about via the command unit, but I've found that just setting it for a flat 40 deg C seems to work OK. The relays I used were 12V ones, that plug in to DIN rail mount sockets, and have additional LED modules to show which relay is on. The DIN rail socket fits into a small consumer unit type box (I bought a cheap one with a clear cover so I could see the LEDs). I powered the relays via a 12V Meanwell DIN rail mount power supply. The relays I used were standard 12V DIN rail mount sockets type ones, with the LED indicator modules, like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RELAY-MODULE-2CO-12VDC-/172741730264?hash=item2838359fd8:g:r4cAAOSwgv5ZSlRh The diodes were cheap 1N4001's soldered together with leads to wire up to the relay modules. To allow easy connection of the external thermostat wiring I used DIN rail terminal blocks, like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5MM-12-PIECE-DIN-TERM-PACK-/172750888899?hash=item2838c15fc3:g:s5IAAOSw8GtZUmeF these fitted behind areas of the consumer unit box where I hadn't punched out the front covers, to hide the terminals. The Meanwell 12V power supply I used was one of these:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mean-Well-DR-15-12-12V-15W-Step-Shape-Din-Rail-PSU-/132076460496?hash=item1ec05ed9d0:g:anMAAOSwnHZYifqK (it needs to be the step shaped one to fit a consumer unit type housing, I think, and keep the terminals protected) IIRC, I used a 9 module DIN housing, just a bare consumer unit type unit with no switches etc fitted, like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Consumer-Unit-enclosure-MCB-Fuses-box-coffret-electrique-5-9-13-18-26-module-way-/251353151094?var=&hash=item0 I can check tomorrow to be sure whether it's a 9 or 13 module box.
    1 point
  15. Just an update on this, spoke with carrier today, it's now a 33AW-CS1B controller. I'm told it does the same thing but no doubt once I get it it will have something changed. £184 pus delivery which is a bit more for me at £15
    1 point
  16. Yes ... as long as you put it in in CAPITALS..!!
    0 points
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