Leaderboard

The plastic fittings are used to direct the airflow away from an area, To use them you need to screw the valve out by approx 80% and slide into the slots on the top of the valve, when commissioning the system you adjust the valve, lock with locknut and fit valve in the desired direction. Gary BPC Ventilation

A couple of days ago I said I was buying a plastic shed for storage and would report back. It is here and built now, and I am very impressed. The shed is from a company called Keter, and is their range called Factor (more expensively they also do Fusion which is prettier, and Oakland which can be painted). It incorporates a steel from which I can hang (14 st) and do pull ups (would not try if 18st). I went for a 8'6" by 11' (external) version, but there is a range of sizes. Internal clear dimensions are approx 6-7* less ie an 8x4 sheet won't quite fit across. I paid £699 (list price £1200, normal selling price is £899 from eg Wickes and Argos), which compares OK to my 2 most recent wooden pent-roof-workshop (ie big windows one side) 8'x6' sheds, which were £800 (new, built by supplier, included catflap, leaked first winter) and £450 (ex demo, built by supplier, did not leak). Pros of Keter Factor - Very strong. - Built by Handyman in under a day. He says he would like one himself for the motorbike. - Likely to be durable. Comes with I think a 10 or 15 year guarantee. - Shelves and brackets available in their system. - Double doors - in this one more than 4' wide. - Sufficient light comes in through the window and clear panel along the ridge during the day. - Probably relatively straightforward to dismantle and remantle somewhere else. Cons - I have a slight concern about damage to the plastic from sharp items. I may be wrong but I have a loose laid OSB floor in there just in case. - A shed not really (in my view) a workshop. - Not sure about attaching things to the shed itself. Personally I would use freestanding storage etc. I may just be being cautious, but I will not be testing what happens if you drill lots of holes in it. - As with most sheds, it will get hot in the sun. It was very hot yesterday, though there are a couple of vents. Notes - Requires a good base as it slots, clicks and bolts together .. ideally a slab, but I used heavy pavers on raked gravel since it will be a patio when the shed moves. Wickes and others also do a different type called Amber Skylight, which reviews far less well on various websites, and I would avoid. That Keter range is worth a look imo, if it matches your application. Ferdinand (Photos to follow)

I'd have shelved that idea...

Ah, dexion, I remember it well. I used it once to hold a gearbox in a car when converting from auto to manual!

I think it was Screweys had Mapei tanking kits on offer...any good as a brand? Ooh! Just found Everbuild's offering: https://www.transtools.co.uk/fixings-hardwares/sealants-and-adhesives/wet-room-system/aquaseal-wet-room-waterproof-tanking-system-4-5-square-metre-kit

The guys that supplied and fitted our Silestone worktops (a bit similar to Corian) couldn't cut it on site, but did joint it on site. They cut it in their workshop, using a water cooled diamond saw, to get the dead straight and square edge needed to make the joints, and each joint has a chamfer at the top that is filled with the epoxy resin jointing compound. I watched them fit the worktops, and they took a lot of time making sure that all the surfaces were level, then fitted them with silicone adhesive to the units, with the carefully colour matched epoxy jointing adhesive in all the joints (we had two joints in a "C" shaped layout). The jointing adhesive cures fairly quickly, and they then roughly cut the overspill away with a Stanley knife blade, before the adhesive was fully cured, then waited until it was really hard before doing the finishing. Finishing was done with a polishing machine, fitted with what looked like Scotchbrite pads, that was used to make the joints dead flush with the surface. The end result was almost invisible joins between the worktop pieces, and no sign of movement in the two years since it's been fitted. I did spend a lot of time making sure that all the kitchen base units were set dead level, and all secured to each other very rigidly, so that there was little chance of any movement, and this may well have helped make the worktop fitting go a bit more smoothly. The guys fitted all the worktops, including the island, in about half a day, with most of the time spent waiting for the adhesive to cure and polishing up the joints. I'd say that it's not really a DIY job to cut and fit this stuff, as you would probably spend more on tools and materials than a decent fitter would charge to do the job. I'll tackle most things, but I think I'd just pay to have someone fit worktops like this.

Erm... Don't tell me you've NOT got something like this knocking around: https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/warmup-replacement-floor-probe-for-3ie-4ie-thermostat-2015-upgrade?campaign=googlebase&gclid=CNr0r-fd99QCFcEp0wodGAQAqA As in its a 10K NTC sensor. Available at Topps Tiles, Eurocell, Trading Depot etc.

If you have a good Honeywell agent in Swansea they do a remote sensor (10k Thermistor) for the CM901/907 range of stats. http://www.honeywelluk.com/Documents/Easy-User-Guide/pdf/Outside Temperature Sensor Product Specification.pdf

Corian can be cut and joined without problem but it's not a DIY job IMHO. Im sure the kitchen company that wants to sell the display kitchen could put you in touch with a local fitter.

that's a K-type thermocouple in the piccy.

I had the same, 5 supply points and 4 extracts, so I added an extract point from the plant room, thinking with the buffer tank in there it might get a bit warm.

Boiler thermistor if really stuck?

Plenty of room to move for A down a bit. Can you put the ensuite door on the other wall so both doors aren't as close.

18 T&G OSB and 6mm Aquaboard = 24mm. Very close in depth to the 22mm tray. Tank this and then you've a great base for the tiles.

Good review, thanks Ferdinand.

The bit I think they got wrong, Is the bitumen coating under the ceiling tiles, effectively sealing in any moisture from escape. Your thoughts.

Cheap simple and accurate try something like Ebay item 1688573745, I use one to control a circ fan on top of a rad and it's been seamless for a couple of years. Pay a few quid more for a UK vendor if you're in a rush 112079287480.

Napkin = Maplin!

Near passive standards then .

There's quite a wide range of breather membranes out there. Being a bit ocd, I compiled a list of options with info pulled off the BBA certificate. So I was able to compare g/m2, tensile strength in two directions, nail tear strength, and UV exposure rating. It is that last factor that is likely to be crucial. Most membranes are only rate for 3-6 months of exposure, so if your cladding detail allows light to fall on the membrane you might be in trouble. Having said that, my wall membrane was fairly cheap stuff and has been keeping the weather out for about a year now, doing a much better job than I had dared hope.

All the best for a speedy recovery.