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Apologies for re-booting an old thread, but Scandia-Hus encouraged us to have a kitchen design produced very early in the process (once the basic floor layout for the house had been agreed). They then 'tweaked' wall/door positions/sizes to ensure that when the timber frame was manufactured our desired kitchen layout would fit as precisely as possible.

Sorry @Steptoeread this https://ico.org.uk/for-the-public/cctv/ and this https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/domestic-cctv-using-cctv-systems-on-your-property/domestic-cctv-using-cctv-systems-on-your-property i spent the last 15 years working with the authorities that manage cctv and other surveillance systems what you describe has never happened in my experience. if you comply with the rules its ok in @Construction Channel example he can do one of 3 things ignore the requirement to register. and only do so if someone complains and plead ignorance move camera so it only covers his land or register and comply with code of practice. if all it took was someone saying they feel intimidated then we would have no cctv anywhere as the civil liberties brigade would be complaining about every camera going

So...the 4-pin black plug cut off the LED light strip and put to one side. The IR sensor cut off of the white driver module and fitted inside the actual light strip itself using cores 1,2 & 3 of the 7-core extension. These 3 cores pass thru the pre-drilled hole in the end cap. Also coming out of the same hole (it's tight ) are the 4 wires that originally went to the 4-pin plug. These are soldered to cores 4,5,6 and the cpc. Heat shrink is the original colours - blk/red/grn & blu.

Sparky ran standard 4 pair telephone cable from where the BT wire entered the basement and ran it up to the loft (passing through another BT box) where we originally planned to have the master socket and where all the cat6 cables terminate. This was also our plan B location should we need a drop wire vs the ducted option. Another 4 pair cable ran back down to the study. We have two lines, voice only for house and a voice DSL that I use for work (and expense so need it billed separately). We had BT install the broadband master in the loft and the voice only master in that second basement BT box. When we hooked up the Smarthub, the wifi signal wasn't good enough so sparky moved the broadband BT master socket back to the basement, right next to the incoming BT line, a bit of rejigging with the interior cable allowed this line to exit in the study which is where the Smart Hub now lives, ditto for the voice only line - we have a nifty MK euro module with two BT sockets side by side. This also took a bit of length out of the internal phone wiring circuits which wont hurt performance. It's also good practice to have the BT master as soon as their line enters the house as this is used for testing performance if there are ever issues and this way they can't blame your internal wiring. So I'd plan to have the Master where the drop wire will enter and then run multi pair (for redundancy, future proofing) from this to your desired location. The BT masters have internal connections for extension wiring which they will happily connect. if you're not planning to hang anything off the master, don't get a face plate with a built in filter otherwise you can't locate your smart hub further down stream. Just ask for a standard one (or even be cheeky and ask for one of each) and then use the micro filter that ships with the hub at its final location

me! well, the wife actually, it was actually fitted just after we moved in (9years ago) as a temporary measure until we got sorted, we got the house on 21st (iirc) dec 2007 and had to be out of previous house (rental) by 6th Jan 2008, so I had 2 weeks to re-wire present house and have it liveable with SWMBO expecting our first child in March 2008, young lad I worked with came and butt&scribed our worktops on NYE for me, a mate flew over from Isle of Man on 28th dec and done my plastering, another mate flew over from norn iron and sorted out my plumbing and fitted a 'new' (reconditioned) boiler for me, I finished (well functional) the bathroom on 2nd Jan, the (now) wifes cousin and niece done most of the painting and wallpapering, kitchen (inc worktops , tiling etc, and fitting them, but not including appliances) cost me iro £450 including calling in some favours,

Try these felt lap vents, they work wonders and is a cheap and easily installed solution. Spread them out evenly across the roof and at different levels to maximise cross flow. http://www.manthorpe.co.uk/Building/Products/Roof-Ventilation/Felt-Lap-Vent.html

The easiest thing is to give SWMBO a blank sheet of paper, let her design the kitchen then ask the architect to put some walls around it.

Or, if you have a small kitchen in a 2&1/2 bed semi let your wife buy a bfo range cooker and design your kitchen around that,!!!!!

You should be Wrens head of design. That looks more sensible than the last £11k effort they scraped together .

And don't bring the pipe out of the wall BEHIND the FF. Most need every mm of depth available. Bring the pipe out e,g under an adjacent unit where you can access it by removing a kick board, to allow the entire depth to be used for the FF.

I was recommended this useful website below by an Architect friend and using it managed to do all my own Building Reg drawings + notes and then get them approved by my local Building Control.department. BuildingRegs4Plans http://www.buildingregs4plans.co.uk/index.php

Looks ok to me as it's not dropping much even if the external temperature is falling. As stated above hard to be more specific than knowing more information about the details, etc. What are you using to record the temperature? I'd like to install something like that.

There're too many unknowns to make any real estimates, but you could take the Tue 18:00 to Wed 06:00 period where there is no heat gain from solar and see that, with an average temp differential of approx 2.5 degrees, your house dropped 0.2 degrees in 12 hours. Seems "pretty good", but anything more definitive with the unknowns would be a guess.

LOL, pretty much, at least some form of calculator. Just because it's an extension doesn't mean it cannot be modelled. You'll have to use an assumed figure for air leakage I guess. But maybe someone can also give you a yes or no based on their experience. The absolute temperature looks low to me, but I guess that might be because of works going on, doors open, closed etc.

Wait until you have to carry it somewhere. ? Shes a beast ? but it's the bollocks.

It's the only "longest" thing I'll win. Take that away and I've nothing left!

I find most people forget a water supply to the fridge freezer ( for the ice maker) . Make a note people ?

Technically it would be 110mm, but agree, 150mm is way OTT.

I've got one of these, as well as a 4mm pass / 23mm rebating planer, BFOff router, and god knows what else that will try and take me out if I ever turn my back on it. When I use that chop saw, it's with the same concentration and respect every time. That would remove an entire hand without you even feeling it. I also use it to cut aluminium and brass tile edge trims, for the laser precise cuts, and it gets the heart pumping I can tell you. The one tool i strongly distrust / dislike / whatever is the 18v circular saw. Powerful enough to do all I ask of it, but underpowered enough to catch and bite. This lifts the saw up and out, backwards, straight towards you. My golden rule with the circular saws is never to be behind it, but always to be beside it and out of its path, should it decide to 'do one'. I put my 230v circular down a while back whilst the blade was still at near full wallop. Only problem was I hadn't used it for a while and the first cut saw the blade guard wedge at top dead centre leaving the full blade exposed. When that hit the concrete floor I nearly shat a brick. Must have travelled at least a metre in about a half second, but with my lobster like grip only tightening as my stupid brain refused to let it go . Watch yourselves people, as power tools don't take hostages.

Our cats ended up going to another home. I got sick of being woken up every single night to let them in/out, since I'm the only one in the house who can be roused from sleep by noise. I don't miss them at all, and I'm sure the surrounding wildlife is pleased they're gone too.

That is looking a LOT like a bathroom.