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1) How about a brick shed? 2) How much do you drink? http://inhabitat.com/heineken-wobo-the-brick-that-holds-beer/

Get your arse around there and speak to them. Explain the cost involved in cleaning and securing the site ALONE, and ask if they'd let you adopt it.

I agree with Ian, go and speak to them and ask if you can lay your pipe over the land in question. I'd frame it in terms that you have the alternative route but would rather spend the £2K doing something useful and of benefit, like putting up a new fence on the site boundary to save your neighbours the hassle of constantly having to tidy up after fly tippers. Offer to pick up their legal fees so it's a zero cost / upside only proposal for them.

My first plan was to drill at 20mm, then slip in a length of pvc electrical conduit and run the 15mm copper thru that. I HAVE taken on board what you said that if you drill too big a hole it can cause probs on the outside for the 3 screws in the flange plate. I reckon though that the conduit would work improving the angle and still allowing screwing. With the Cuprofit, from memory they allow for a bit of an angle.

No need to buy, all you need is an agreement to lay the pipe and thereafter to maintain it. As Nick suggests, just ask. We are in a similar situation: we asked, the permission to cross the land was valued, a sum was agreed;and here's the detail (December) Or have I missed something?

Never say never

Call me old fashioned, but why not just go and ask them if they'll sell and if so how much please?

+1 to what @Nickfromwales said about using the flexi as they are much more forgiving. If that cistern is coming out in the future then you will need some movement around where the next one connects. If it was me I would drop a straight leg into the pipe along the bottom of the wall and extend out to the left and then use a flexi off that - gives you the choice when you replace for either a left or right hand fill.

Why make life difficult? I assume you know you can't solder the tap connector or adjacent fittings whilst it's made off to the plastic stem? Seen many a nugget do that and not realise they've just melted the shit out of the fill valve stem. Another favourite seems to be doing the same on an electric shower. Keeps me in a job though

I take it from the pictures that your plot is the last picture that has had extensive ground work and the bit you would like to buy is the overgrown similar strip to the left in the last picture? The fly tipping can be dealt with by a decent fence along the top of the stone wall, and I can see with relatively little work it could provide an interesting shaded bit of garden just be thinning the lower branches of the trees and creating a path through, perhaps to a shed / summerhouse at the end? My guess is, that seeing your house being built by digging into the steep bank, the neighbours may view their bank as another potential building plot.

Might also be relevant although note the VAT implication I mentioned above if arguing it's already mixed use. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/part/3/crossheading/class-m-retail-or-betting-office-or-pay-day-loan-shop-to-dwellinghouses/made

In the case of an unlawful "change of use" it's 10 years not 4 that they have to initiate enforcement action. eg You would have to provide evidence that the change of use to residential occurred > 10 years ago. Something like paying council tax on the flats for that period might be enough but collect every scrap of evidence you can find.

Or set the bottom up on a few blocks and make another step out of a few more.

I got a straight flight from Howdens for £120 + vat, it wasn't worth thinking about getting the chippie to make one at this price. They seem to sell on ebay at £80 ish second hand, so I should get some cashback at the end of the build. (added to the thread as an information source only!!)

The standards are listed out on the HSE website. http://www.hse.gov.uk/construction/safetytopics/siteorg.htm Extinguishers are an odd thing as due to the many types available for each material fire you could nearly end up needing one of each ..! The last big site we did had foam extinguishers as the view from CDM was the biggest risk was from hot work causing a fire with timber or similar. Don't forget that if it's in an unheated space in winter that you will need suitable frost protection for any water based extinguishers.

One issue you could look at would be the positions of any extractors & possibly building short pieces of 100mm drainage so the insulation can be cut snugly around them. If you don't,when the plumber comes to core drill the extractors from inside to out-bye bye insulation in those areas.

Almost Would read : Cold incoming -> Instantaneous DHW Coil in TS -> Cold inlet in UVC -> DHW. The cold uplift is basically just reference to raising the incoming cold mains temperature before it gets to the UVC, so if the buffer was at 40oC and you ran a shower at 38oC you'd expect not to deplete the UVC of energy at all. Instead the ashp would bear the brunt, which would be the better option vs reinforcing via grid electric ( if Pv is unavailable / insufficient ). Lighting the stove purely to get hot water would be a pita, so the the ashp would be connected via a dedicated coil to always make dhw production just a matter of flicking a switch. I've run off a few designs ( and revisions of ) for member @readiescards which originated around a similar remit. After a very brief look at the UVC + TS setup I quickly realised there was an Achilles heel to that combination. ( at the time there was a wbs with back boiler in the remit also ). The issue I kept getting stuck on was the fact that the UVC may well be sat above the pre heated water delivery temp, so if Pv had given you a very hot tank full of DHW and you drew water through the pre heat it would cool the UVC and have an adverse affect. It would only be useful heat if the UVC was sat at ~45oC where the differential then wouldn't be quite so problematic. With a stove, and with Pv, I don't think the dhw medium should be an UVC tbh, it's just not suitable IMHO. I'd go for a dual TS setup with the upper one being at least 500ltr. This would have a dhw coil which serves the house dhw directly. It would also have a coil for the ashp to heat it. I'd then have a third point ( flow and return tappings not a coil ) to remove heat, designed with flow to be high and return low in the TS. The plot thickens . The ashp would feed a ( typically ) low temp second TS ( ~200 ltrs ) with a coil for cold mains uplift, but the primary purpose of that TS would be for providing space heating. It would also have another coil to accept excess heat from the upper TS ( from the third coil ). Basically this setup would see little or no wasted heat as the secondary TS would then double up as a heat battery. As the stove mentioned is suitable for a sealed system, you can be more creative with it under 'overheat' condition. So, you light the stove and the primary TS gets up to target temp. The circuit starts to peak out at 90+oC and then you soon have two choices, water cooling kicks in or heat gets dumped. Obviously heat dump is a waste in typical situations, but here it becomes advantageous as you have the means to shift excess heat from the primary TS to the secondary TS and max that one out too. A cylinder stat 3/4 of the way up the primary TS, set to around 65-70oC, would bring a pump on to shift the excess heat to the secondary TS which should keep the stove away from the realms of assisted cooling ( waste dump ). As the stove would typically only be used for space heating and water production when space heating is required, why not make the most use of the wood burning events? With both TS's complimenting each other ( primary charging secondary and secondary providing uplift for the cold mains ( instant ) dhw coil ), you'll have enough stored heat to give Ufh through the night and have a tank of hot water for showering in the early morning. I don't see the point in having a wbs of lighting it is going to quickly produce heat in excess of the immediate demand, and then you end up dumping the excess. If I was going to the lengths of fitting a system to accept wood burning, and I was going to fit a buffer for the Ufh, then I'd just upsize the buffer, make it a TS, and make some meaningful use out of it Another upshot of this setup is that when excess Pv roofs out the primary TS it'll still pump down to the second TS, so this excess storage solution works with both the wbs and the Pv. Another consideration will be expansion for the entire sealed system. Both TS's would require significant expansion volume for max temp tolerance so that's another thing to factor in accordingly. With a bit more thought maybe there is a better way to control the relationship between the tanks, but I'll see what critique this gets before I 'fine tune' it Waste water from the boiler as per peters comment, so no issues there. @ProDave If there was a water outage, burst main getting repaired I suppose is the only way for that to happen, then the boiler would over heat the TS and eventually the T&PRV on the TS would open ( at ~90oC ) and discharge the water to the tundish and D2 pipe to outside. Wouldn't be pretty, but it would deal with it. I think I'd want the D1 in 22mm ( upsize from 15mm to 22mm immediately after the T&PRV which are typically only ever in 15mm ) and then on to a 22x28mm tundish with 28mm or 35mm D2 to drain. Adding a cold mains accumulator would give you a reserve of pressurised cold water, so cold mains failure is addressable should it ever be a concern.

@Nickfromwales Lightweight.

Dont flatter yourself lol. I'll 'do it' for the good of the thread / members too and, tbph, I want to know for myself as I may well start promoting these through my business. . To summarise, that's 2 members at 3 pints each so next Friday eve is covered ???? Sweet.

"Real World" performance is nowhere near that declared to the Regulator! If it ever happened in Automotive there would be a scandal.

On cost grounds? Must say, I wasn't 100% sure when we chose to install one, and now I wouldn't be without it. Forgot to do veggies for kids' tea? Frozen peas, boiling water tap, done faster than even the microwave can manage! Not to mention the ability to make a cup of tea in about 20 seconds start to finish, which comes in handy if you watch a lot of BBC (no ads).

Thanks for your thoughts. Boiling kitchen tap has been given a big thumbs down by "the boss" The kitchen sink is on an island, with the pipework having to run under the beam and insulated block floor, so not ideal and another reason I thought the recirculating system would be a good idea. I'm planning on using a WBS with back boiler, gas system boiler and any excess solar PV, which is why I thought a thermal store was the way to go.

In the end I went with a Speedistair from Ladders999, really pleased with it. Hope to sell it on afterwards too