Hep 20 Manifold

[BotusBuild]

16 hours ago, BotusBuild said:

My DIY H or C manifold under test using my DIY tester at 2.5 bar

 

Damn. Having been filled with water for nearly 2 weeks, just hanging around at atmospheric pressure without a sign of a drip, applying the 2.5 bar showed a small weep where the brass 90 at the top connects to the manifold. Time to undo, re-PTFE and tighten up again. Will just air pressure test this time along with soapy water sprayed on the joints.

Meanwhile, the other DIY manifold is on test 🙂 

[Iceverge]

Did you wrap HDPE tape around the olive too? 

 

Just a wrap or two. 

 

I find it helps the whole thing slide into place as the tape is really just a lubricant. 

[Mr Punter]

I have asked a plumber to make up a manifold for cold mains water and he is suggesting 28mm copper.  I will post a picture if he gets it done.

[BotusBuild]

2 hours ago, Iceverge said:

Did you wrap HDPE tape around the olive too?

Yup 😞 

[SimonD]

8 hours ago, BotusBuild said:

Time to undo, re-PTFE and tighten up again.

 

Just as a tip, don't wrap the thread with ptfe, you don't need it and it might make you think you've tightened the compression fitting enough when you haven't. You only need to wrap the olive. Personally I hardly ever use PTFE tape any more preferring to use a jointing compound.

[joe90]

I find it amazing how many people use ptfe tape on threads that have nothing to do with water tightness.

[Russell griffiths]

Ptfe tape is not required on a fitting with an olive

the olive makes the seal, the mistake people make is tightening in up until the get a squawking noise from the fitting, it then feels tight and they stop. 
what the fitting actually requires is lubrication to allow proper seating of the olive without the squawking noise. 
@BotusBuildimho 2.5 bar is not adequate for a test. 
 

[joe90]

8 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

what the fitting actually requires is lubrication to allow proper seating of the olive without the squawking noise. 

+1 👍

[BotusBuild]

The problem is not with the compression joint. It is where the 90 joins the end of the manifold. My olive joints are just fine 🙂

But thanks for the input.

[Russell griffiths]

I would ditch the tape and use a liquid product like locktight 577. 

[sharpener]

4 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Ptfe tape is not required on a fitting with an olive

the olive makes the seal, the mistake people make is tightening in up until the get a squawking noise from the fitting, it then feels tight and they stop. 
what the fitting actually requires is lubrication to allow proper seating of the olive without the squawking noise.

 

Yes, +1. A single drop of 3-in-1 on the thread before you fit/tighten the cap nut means much more of the torque you apply is turned into axial force that in turn compresses the olive. I also find the thinnest of smears of old-fashioned jointing compound on the olive is all that is required for a perfect seal yet easy to dismantle.

 

The rightful place for PTFE is mostly in the tool box, occasionally for male-female threaded joints.

[crispy_wafer]

I've been pottering about with hep over the last couple of evenings, getting the Hep down from the 1st floor void into the plant cupboard in and orderly and tidy fashion is proving a challenge, I know its only a plant cupboard, but it will look crap and bug me forever.   To resolve I can think of two options

 

1) cut the hep up in the void and install 90's on each and run copper tails down the wall to the manifold, or

2) install the manifold in the floor void and just run supply and drain tails down the wall.  Have an access hatch in the ceiling so I can poke my shoulders, head and arms in there should I need to.

 

What do you think?

[BotusBuild]

I would choose option 1. IMO better to have access to the manifold in the plant room than having to scrabble around in a void. Easier to isolate just one pipe (assuming you have isolators on the manifold).

[BotusBuild]

16 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

imho 2.5 bar is not adequate for a test. 

4? 5? 6? ??? 🙂

 

Currently testing the good manifold at 4Bar 

Edited March 13 by BotusBuild

[SimonD]

22 minutes ago, BotusBuild said:

4? 5? 6? ??? 🙂

 

Currently testing the good manifold at 4Bar 

 

The Hep20 guidelines:

 

Quote

First carry out a low-pressure water test at 0.5 – 1 bar when the system is just demountable fittings, then a pressure test at 1.5 x the normal working pressure with a recommended minimum of 10 bar for a minimum of 45 minutes. However, if any of our slimline fittings are included with the system, then an 18-bar test for a minimum of 45 minutes should be carried out.

 

https://blog.wavin.com/en-gb/push-fit-hep2o-your-plumbing-faqs-answered

[Russell griffiths]

 

@crispy_wafer I did this. 

[crispy_wafer]

27 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

 

@crispy_wafer I did this. 

now that's exactly what I'm thinking of, whether I can execute it aswell remains to be seen.  But thats just perfect for me.  How did you finish the ceiling?  Cut a rectangle out of the board, or fingers for all the pipes? 

[BotusBuild]

That, Mr Griffiths, is a thing of beauty.

[Iceverge]

21 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

I have asked a plumber to make up a manifold for cold mains water and he is suggesting 28mm copper.  I will post a picture if he gets it done.

 

 Anything wrong with the 22mm Hep push fit?

 

Worked well for me.

[Mr Punter]

46 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

 

 Anything wrong with the 22mm Hep push fit?

 

Worked well for me.

 

I imagine it is fine but we are feeding 8 flats.  We have a new 32mm MDPE supply so we are thinking 28mm copper with 28mm x 28mm x 15mm reducing tees to each of the meters.  The 28mm will also have a cold water accumulator.  Current setup is 15mm spaghetti, so electric showers tend not be too impressive.

[BotusBuild]

4 hours ago, SimonD said:

First carry out a low-pressure water test at 0.5 – 1 bar when the system is just demountable fittings, then a pressure test at 1.5 x the normal working pressure with a recommended minimum of 10 bar for a minimum of 45 minutes. However, if any of our slimline fittings are included with the system, then an 18-bar test for a minimum of 45 minutes should be carried out.

Right, so I was able to test to 6 bar using the pump I had. I now have two sealed manifolds ready. I guess the next test will be when I connect them up to the mains in a few months time. Thank you to everyone for your input.

 

PS, I am a convert to the liquid sealant which worked first time on the joint I was having problems with. (High-Tech 35 S 77 PTFE Sealant for Gas and Liquid WRA compliant from my local (non-chain) plumbers merchant)

[Thorfun]

2 hours ago, BotusBuild said:

I am a convert to the liquid sealant

me too! Loctite 577 makes it idiot proof.

 

I am living proof.

[Russell griffiths]

5 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

 

I imagine it is fine but we are feeding 8 flats.  We have a new 32mm MDPE supply so we are thinking 28mm copper with 28mm x 28mm x 15mm reducing tees to each of the meters.  The 28mm will also have a cold water accumulator.  Current setup is 15mm spaghetti, so electric showers tend not be too impressive.

There is a company on e bay, who make up purposes designed manifolds for splitting incoming mains. 
have a hunt, they look good. 

[Russell griffiths]

 

this sort of thing @Mr Punter

[Mr Punter]

13 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

 

this sort of thing @Mr Punter

 

Yes I saw those and they look v good value compared to the commercial stuff from plasson etc but we are in a tight space and the plumber suggested Ts from a 28mm.  I know not much about plumbing but thought if the purpose designed one leaks you would need to replace the whole thing where with normal fittings maybe not.