My self-build DIY plumbing

[Thorfun]

4 minutes ago, ProDave said:

So you have one motorised valve per manifold but only ONE pump that serves both manifolds.  That complicates the issue.

yes. this is exactly what I have.

 

4 minutes ago, ProDave said:

What is the call for heat input on the FTC6?  Does it have to be a volt free contact or will it accept a switched 240v ac input?

I'm not actually sure! our heating engineers have wired it up but I'm not sure what is making the call for heat. it might be the inbuilt thermostat within the FTC6 controller unit.

[Thorfun]

6 minutes ago, ProDave said:

The logic is:

Basement thermostat energises basement motorised valve when it wants heat.

Ground floor thermostat energised ground floor motorised valve when it wants heat.

 

The feedback contacts (orange and grey wires) from both motorised valves connect in parallel and will turn on the pump when either floor is calling for heat.

yes. this is what I need I think! but what do I need to make it work and wire it all up?

 

7 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Where it will get complicated if the FTC6 insists on a volt free contact you will have to use a relay.

I will have to Google this and/or look at the manual.

[ProDave]

26 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

yes. this is what I need I think! but what do I need to make it work and wire it all up?

 

I will have to Google this and/or look at the manual.

To make it work you need a junction box to connect it all together, I would start with a standard central heating "wiring centre" which is usually just a plastic box with a 12 way terminal block inside and lots of cable entries.

 

I am hoping that one of the many forum members familliar with the FTC6 will answer what it's call for heat input is.

[Thorfun]

4 minutes ago, ProDave said:

To make it work you need a junction box to connect it all together, I would start with a standard central heating "wiring centre" which is usually just a plastic box with a 12 way terminal block inside and lots of cable entries.

like one of these?

 

https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/products/salus-5-zone-wiring-centre?view=compare&compare=heatmiser-uh4-4-zone-wiring-center,polypipe-ufh4zw-4-zone-wiring-centre

 

 

[ProDave]

7 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

like one of these?

 

https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/products/salus-5-zone-wiring-centre?view=compare&compare=heatmiser-uh4-4-zone-wiring-center,polypipe-ufh4zw-4-zone-wiring-centre

 

 

No, that is what you would use if you were having lots of individual zones and individual actuators for each pipe loop.

 

You just want to join together the two motorised valve cables, 2 thermostat cables, a cable to the pump, a flex in providing power and (still to be determined) how to connect to the RTC6.

 

Something like this   https://www.toolstation.com/drayton-wiring-centre/p56309

[crispy_wafer]

There's your diagram for the UH4, substitute the word actuator for valve on zones 1 and 2 & Jobs a Goodun.  Probably need someone who's done this before to confirm though! 

 

[Pocster]

3 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

There's your diagram for the UH4, substitute the word actuator for valve on zones 1 and 2 & Jobs a Goodun.  Probably need someone who's done this before to confirm though! 

 

Very similar to my heat miser wiring - not tricky 

[Thorfun]

1 hour ago, ProDave said:

No, that is what you would use if you were having lots of individual zones and individual actuators for each pipe loop.

 

You just want to join together the two motorised valve cables, 2 thermostat cables, a cable to the pump, a flex in providing power and (still to be determined) how to connect to the RTC6.

 

Something like this   https://www.toolstation.com/drayton-wiring-centre/p56309

so I found this about wiring the Honeywell motorised valve

 

 

my valves have 6 wires so will be the diagram on the right.

 

that block in the middle looks like the Drayton wiring centre you linked to, right? so if I wire it all up like that then things should work?

 

out of interest, what is the 'Programmer'? is that the timer?

 

also, my pump is wired in to the FTC6 via a wago connector block and connects to the FTC6 as shown below

 

 

so is wired to Out2 which according to this manual is

 

 

so would I get rid of the wago block and put the pump and the cable to OUT2 of the FTC6 and join them to the Drayton wiring centre 1, 2 and 3 as per the above diagram?

[Thorfun]

looking at a few wireless thermostats. are they all compatible with ASHPs? 

 

this one https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/esi-wireless-programmable-room-thermostat-white-esrtp4rf/p/455329 has instructions https://support.esicontrols.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/esrtp4rf-_installation-instructions_web.pdf that says

 

Quote

For information on wiring to the boiler please contact your boiler manufacturer directly!

 

 

I don't have a boiler! are there specific wireless thermostats for ASHPs? I don't want anything too flashy or expensive as it's a temporary measure.

[Thorfun]

I guess I could go for the official Mitsubishi transmitter/receiver combo. https://www.saturnsales.co.uk/Ecodan-Wireless-Transmitter-PAR-WT50R-E -Receiver-PAR-WR51R-E.html. should be plug and play and will then turn the pump on.

 

I guess the issue would be how do I then get the single pump to turn on the required floors motorised valve.

 

damn. maybe that won't work then

[JohnMo]

31 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

are there specific wireless thermostats for ASHPs

You don6need one specified a heat pump, if it can do a volt free or 230v switching it can do anything. More important if you are actually controlling the UFH with a thermostat is hysterisis. Thick screed need a very small hysterisis thin screed any old thermostat will do.

 

Thick screed 0.1 gets my vote, anything worse than that expect big temperature swings

[JohnMo]

These get my vote

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/COMPUTHERM-Q7RF-Wireless-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B00SI1D6FY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_pp?keywords=COMPUTHERM&qid=1699820036&sr=8-1

[Thorfun]

2 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

You don6need one specified a heat pump, if it can do a volt free or 230v switching it can do anything. More important if you are actually controlling the UFH with a thermostat is hysterisis. Thick screed need a very small hysterisis thin screed any old thermostat will do.

 

Thick screed 0.1 gets my vote, anything worse than that expect big temperature swings

we have a thin screed. 50mm liquid cemfloor. and this is just to keep the temperature ticking over so I don't have to manually turn it on and off or keep monitoring it. just want to keep the house at around 19°C for the winter so when I'm working out there I'm not freezing my nether regions.

[JohnMo]

The thermostat I linked has an adjustable hysterisis, 0.5, 0.2 and 0.1, it can also be configured to manage heating and cooling. I use as permissive to start and stop my heat pump.

[Thorfun]

1 hour ago, JohnMo said:

The thermostat I linked has an adjustable hysterisis, 0.5, 0.2 and 0.1, it can also be configured to manage heating and cooling. I use as permissive to start and stop my heat pump.

thanks. I've ordered one. seemed to tick all the right boxes. if it doesn't then Amazon's return policy will be utilised!

[Thorfun]

5 hours ago, ProDave said:

No, that is what you would use if you were having lots of individual zones and individual actuators for each pipe loop.

 

You just want to join together the two motorised valve cables, 2 thermostat cables, a cable to the pump, a flex in providing power and (still to be determined) how to connect to the RTC6.

 

Something like this   https://www.toolstation.com/drayton-wiring-centre/p56309

is it worth the extra for the Honeywell wiring centre in your opinion? https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/honeywell-home-wiring-centre-230-v-42005748-001/p/834330

 

[ProDave]

38 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

is it worth the extra for the Honeywell wiring centre in your opinion? https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/honeywell-home-wiring-centre-230-v-42005748-001/p/834330

 

No that is too specific.  Yours is a make it up as you go along box of terminals for a one off system.

[Thorfun]

On 08/11/2023 at 13:31, Pocster said:

Well young Neo … you listen to Morpheus ….

I listened master.

 

 

40mm coming through the block and beam straight in to a 50mm bend and then 50mm all the way to the soil pipe.

 

[Roger440]

9 hours ago, Thorfun said:

I listened master.

 

 

40mm coming through the block and beam straight in to a 50mm bend and then 50mm all the way to the soil pipe.

 

 

Jeeeez, what is all that for!!!!?!!

[JohnMo]

19 minutes ago, Roger440 said:

 

Jeeeez, what is all that for!!!!?!!

My thoughts also, no wonder this thread is 40 pages long

[dpmiller]

are the red caps on the MVHR ducts airtight?

 

[Thorfun]

1 hour ago, dpmiller said:

are the red caps on the MVHR ducts airtight?

 

I hope so!

[Nick Laslett]

On 22/10/2022 at 09:15, Nickfromwales said:

I only consider condensation on the cold ( far worse in winter ) an issue, so insulate the cold runs if I think there’s going to be any chance of a problem.

For the cost, it’s something I’d go for tbh. 
On the hot runs, waste of time afaic, unless you’re running an HRC. 

 I think this answers my question in the other thread, about insulating the cold pipes to taps, showers, etc. So thanks in advance. This is a thread that keeps on giving.

 

Any pointers for what indicates a potential problem with uninsulated cold pipes?

[Pocster]

On 19/11/2023 at 11:20, Thorfun said:

I listened master.

 

 

40mm coming through the block and beam straight in to a 50mm bend and then 50mm all the way to the soil pipe.

 

Isn’t this a scene from the mother Alien nest where she penetrates everyone ? 

Edited November 22, 2023 by Pocster

[Pocster]

my penetrations 😉