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My self-build DIY plumbing


Thorfun

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3 hours ago, Thorfun said:

next question which is related to the previous discussion on upsizing waste pipe. i know that @Nickfromwales is a big advocate of doing this, so for a wc basin the waste pipe would be upsized from 32mm to 40mm. but in our downstairs WC i will have to drill holes through the internal stud wall to run the waste pipe. it is 89mm CLS and so if i'm drilling a 45mm hole (to account for the fall of the pipe) through the 89mm CLS that's quite a fair chunk of the timber missing!

 

is this an issue? should i just stick with 32mm in this situation? the waste run is about 1m at most from basin to soil stack.

Drill closer to the front of the stud and clad with 15mm OSB for fixings stuff  if a problem, but if you want to run 32 from basin to stack 1m away then 32 will be fine, just if you set the same two basins alongside each other and put 40 to one you can actually see the difference. Don’t ask me why, but I think soap suds killing the air break plays a big part. 
I mostly apply the ‘one up’ rule regardless, but you can have a day off and fit 32 if it s actually that close to the stack. ;)  

 

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You worry too much, add extra noggins if you think you are weakening the timber by drilling a hole, sheet the front with OSB as nick says also gives the benefit of decent fixings for everything you screw to the wall.

 

im a 18mm plywood fan for this, in kitchens, bathroom, staircases as you are always getting a decent fixing for units, sinks handrails etc.

saves grief, saves time.

better result 

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34 minutes ago, TonyT said:

You worry too much, add extra noggins if you think you are weakening the timber by drilling a hole, sheet the front with OSB as nick says also gives the benefit of decent fixings for everything you screw to the wall.

 

im a 18mm plywood fan for this, in kitchens, bathroom, staircases as you are always getting a decent fixing for units, sinks handrails etc.

saves grief, saves time.

better result 

Problem is it’s a very small room already and losing an extra 18mm will make a difference. I could add the ply between the studs though so as to not lose any room size. 

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decided to stick with 32mm as suggested by @joe90 and given the go-ahead by @Nickfromwales! this is my first attempt at a basin waste and pipework and this room will be boarded Monday so if anyone can see any issues then please tell me now! I wasn't sure where to bring the copper out for the taps but there'll be a cupboard under the sink eventually so figured it didn't really matter?

 

IMG_5549.jpeg.677a3c21d22d89560732edca90c9e530.jpegIMG_5550.jpeg.3881cc9d5fe6616640bcdbfaabf7d7be.jpegIMG_5551.jpeg.0e2be2630baa8109330c995ce809118f.jpeg

 

on to the toilet waste as toilet water pipe tomorrow.

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9 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

decided to stick with 32mm as suggested

👍, just a suggestion, when you board the wall pencil on the plasterboard where the pipe is so you don’t screw into it when fixing the plasterboard, what is that black small pipe connected to the basin waste? Also what noggins are you putting in to support the basin?

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2 hours ago, Thorfun said:

decided to stick with 32mm as suggested by @joe90 and given the go-ahead by @Nickfromwales! this is my first attempt at a basin waste and pipework and this room will be boarded Monday so if anyone can see any issues then please tell me now! I wasn't sure where to bring the copper out for the taps but there'll be a cupboard under the sink eventually so figured it didn't really matter?

 

IMG_5549.jpeg.677a3c21d22d89560732edca90c9e530.jpegIMG_5550.jpeg.3881cc9d5fe6616640bcdbfaabf7d7be.jpegIMG_5551.jpeg.0e2be2630baa8109330c995ce809118f.jpeg

 

on to the toilet waste as toilet water pipe tomorrow.

Perhaps I’m missing something; but why the copper ?

Why not hep20 right to the taps ?

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2 hours ago, joe90 said:

what is that black small pipe connected to the basin waste? Also what noggins are you putting in to support the basin?

small black pipe is condensate pipe from an AC unit.

 

18mm ply fitted within the studs for fitting the basin to. that's also on tomorrow's list of things to do!

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1 hour ago, TonyT said:

T piece hidden in the wall😩

 

25 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Exactly what I thought ! Mofo error 

that's the HRC. if you can tell me how to make that connection NOT inside the wall without having a load of connections under the sink then I'm all ears! I did think about the potential risk of making that connection behind the wall and then figured I'm already putting 90° elbow bends behind the wall to bring the hep2o out so there's already a risk behind the wall. 

 

to make that HRC connection outside of the wall I'll have to bring the 15mm hot and the 10mm HRC out through the wall via 90° elbows and then join with the reducing T. all sounds rather messy.

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27 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Perhaps I’m missing something; but why the copper ?

Why not hep20 right to the taps ?

I need to 90° out of the wall so converting to copper is easy as I can push fit it into the 90° hep2o elbow. I don't see the issue here! I see most posts that people come out of the wall in copper and run plastic in the walls. 🤷‍♂️

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1 minute ago, Thorfun said:

 

that's the HRC. if you can tell me how to make that connection NOT inside the wall without having a load of connections under the sink then I'm all ears! I did think about the potential risk of making that connection behind the wall and then figured I'm already putting 90° elbow bends behind the wall to bring the hep2o out so there's already a risk behind the wall. 

 

to make that HRC connection outside of the wall I'll have to bring the 15mm hot and the 10mm HRC out through the wall via 90° elbows and then join with the reducing T. all sounds rather messy.

Too be fair - chance of hep20 connector failing is very very slim .

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Just now, Thorfun said:

I need to 90° out of the wall so converting to copper is easy as I can push fit it into the 90° hep2o elbow. I don't see the issue here! I see most posts that people come out of the wall in copper and run plastic in the walls. 🤷‍♂️

Ok . But why not hep20 all the way ? If you really want copper ( still can’t see why ) change at a point under the sink where you can access it .

I guess I’m asking why hep20 and then copper anyway ? ; what’s the Benefit ?

Don’t get frisky - I’ll take the (expletive deleted)ing biscuits away !

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1 minute ago, Pocster said:

Ok . But why not hep20 all the way ? If you really want copper ( still can’t see why ) change at a point under the sink where you can access it .

I guess I’m asking why hep20 and then copper anyway ? ; what’s the Benefit ?

Don’t get frisky - I’ll take the (expletive deleted)ing biscuits away !

not had a biscuit since you threw your toys out of the pram a little while ago.

 

tbh, I don't know the benefit! nor do I know the downside. both copper and hep2o can be dismounted if required so I don't see the difference. only thing I can think of is that copper comes out of the wall straight but it's hard to get plastic to be nice and straight?

 

maybe @Nickfromwales or someone else who actually knows what they're doing can answer your question.

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3 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

not had a biscuit since you threw your toys out of the pram a little while ago.

 

tbh, I don't know the benefit! nor do I know the downside. both copper and hep2o can be dismounted if required so I don't see the difference. only thing I can think of is that copper comes out of the wall straight but it's hard to get plastic to be nice and straight?

 

maybe @Nickfromwales or someone else who actually knows what they're doing can answer your question.

Maybe no difference.

But I assume Hep2o to Hep2o is best as it’s designed for that ( but doesn’t preclude other connection types ) .

 

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3 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

tbh, I don't know the benefit! nor do I know the downside. both copper and hep2o can be dismounted if required so I don't see the difference. only thing I can think of is that copper comes out of the wall straight but it's hard to get plastic to be nice and straight?

 

maybe @Nickfromwales or someone else who actually knows what they're doing can answer your question.

Usually you are needing compression fittings where the Hep terminates, under sinks etc, so converting to copper is what I do each and every time. Usually with the Hep 90 in the wall, and the copper disappearing into it out of sight.

Anyone who has pushfit on display is low down on my list tbh, looks horrible and unprofessional, plus all the pipe and fittings can then rotate and move about / around....

Feck that!

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3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Usually you are needing compression fittings where the Hep terminates, under sinks etc, so converting to copper is what I do each and every time. Usually with the Hep 90 in the wall, and the copper disappearing into it out of sight.

Anyone who has pushfit on display is low down on my list tbh, looks horrible and unprofessional, plus all the pipe and fittings can then rotate and move about / around....

Feck that!

Agree . But you can hep20 right to the tap tails !

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