Jump to content

Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


Recommended Posts

Interesting mix that was! Smells like when you work with plastic. Pretty sticky!

 

5l bucket cement

7.5l bucket 10mm pea shingle

7.5l bucket sharp sand 

 

So 1 : 1.5 : 1.5

 

3:1 water to SBR 

 

A handful of fibres

 

Repeat! :)

 

Seemed to go in alright though:

 

20180401_153630

 

You can see the fall line:

 

20180401_190603

 

And from a distance how it falls overall.

 

20180401_190626

 

Not sure if it'll float when bit drier or even if it's necessary. Hoping the angle and flat steel plates will come off alright and not be stuck.

 

Whatever, TF for thick tile adhesive! :)

Edited by Onoff
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have no idea how long this mix will take to dry out before tiling. With the SBR in it's unchartered territory. The old 'X' mm per day is out the window I imagine? Does the fact it's waterproof concrete mean water is excluded from the start, how does this stuff dry out? Will it dry quicker?

 

Couldn't resist trying a bit more tamping on the rhs section last night. Funny how that bit is now "drying" quicker. Tbh it was bringing fibres to the surface so had to force myself to leave it. 

 

2018-04-02_08-53-39

 

Not sure if I should have covered it with a plastic sheet...too late now?

 

I might go over it with a heavy metal plate just to knock the odd snot off of it here and there

 

The wife commented how much bigger it looked last night... ;)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

The old 'X' mm per day is out the window I imagine? Does the fact it's waterproof concrete mean water is excluded from the start, how does this stuff dry out? Will it dry quicker?

I'm sure someone will correct me on this, but I was told that concrete doesn't dry out, it cures, so the water somehow reacts and stays in it as part of the compound,........ JFM

so it shouldn't take that much longer than normal, but it might be worth getting a moisture meter if you are the kind of person that worried too much :D 

 

might be worth just running over the top with something while it is still green just to take the snots off, I would have suggested a plastic float but anything flat should work. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Construction Channel said:

I'm sure someone will correct me on this, but I was told that concrete doesn't dry out, it cures, so the water somehow reacts and stays in it as part of the compound,........ JFM

so it shouldn't take that much longer than normal, but it might be worth getting a moisture meter if you are the kind of person that worried too much :D 

 

might be worth just running over the top with something while it is still green just to take the snots off, I would have suggested a plastic float but anything flat should work. 

 

Yeah I've read similar. Got a good piece somewhere about how for many years concrete has a protective effect on steel reinforcing within due to its alkalinity. Over time though CO2 seeps in and acidifies everything causing the steel to rot. The article was on why the early art deco concrete buildings failed and what was being done to save them. There's some process now that arrests the rot. Guess modern admixtures have an effect too on concrete today?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

might be worth just running over the top with something while it is still green just to take the snots off, I would have suggested a plastic float but anything flat should work. 

 

Was debating uscrewing the former angles by the drain now along with taking out the screws holding the flat plates down? Not sure how well I rammed in the new stuff against old but I did prime the old first with neat SBR. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Construction Channel said:

I'm sure someone will correct me on this, but I was told that concrete doesn't dry out, it cures, so the water somehow reacts and stays in it as part of the compound,........ JFM

so it shouldn't take that much longer than normal, but it might be worth getting a moisture meter if you are the kind of person that worried too much :D 

 

might be worth just running over the top with something while it is still green just to take the snots off, I would have suggested a plastic float but anything flat should work. 

 

 

Yes, it needs a fair bit of water in order to hydrate and cause the chemical reactions that make it cure.  It doesn't really "dry out" as such, apart from any excess water that's been added to make it flow better, and generally that excess will come to the top pretty quickly, leaving enough water behind to allow the reactions to complete.  The chemistry is damned complex, and even now not well understood, but keeping concrete/mortar damp during the initial curing phase is pretty much essential.  After a day or so it doesn't matter normally, as most of the water will be locked up inside and will continue to help the cure.  The stuff is really weird, as it can go on curing internally for decades, reaching peak strength after maybe 20 or 30 years or so.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This Sika product is like what I was talking about for protecting steel within existing concrete. 

 

https://gbr.sika.com/en/solutions_products/sika-markets/concrete-repair/total-corrosion-management/multi-functional-corrosion-inhibitors.html

 

There was a really good piece in one of the broadsheets a few years back to do with carbonated old concrete and it's re alkalisation. Guessing Sika bought them out maybe?

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trim removed and scabbled with a metal plate:

 

20180402_131622

 

Not sure whether I should smooth that edge where the angle former came off?

 

20180402_131641

 

20180402_131656

 

@Nickfromwales, from 3m50s onwards in this video: what's the "stuff" they're trowelling on to stick the drain membrane down?

 

 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Shall we have a sweepstake on who is going to be the first to shower in their new bathroom, @Onoff or me?

 

hint: The only thing stopping ours being used now is lack of hot water tank.

 

I would have put money on you before you even started yours @ProDave :D

 

Sorry @Onoff :ph34r:

 

But for the avoidance of doubt we don’t need photo evidence from either of you ;)

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Shall we have a sweepstake on who is going to be the first to shower in their new bathroom, @Onoff or me?

 

hint: The only thing stopping ours being used now is lack of hot water tank.

 

The only thing stopping ours being used now is lack of insulation, plumbing, electrics, Aquapanel, tanking, plaster, tiles...

 

I do have a hot water tank though...

 

:)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

what's the "stuff" they're trowelling on to stick the drain membrane down?

 

According to my mate it’s tanking adhesive - most German bathrooms are done with a tanking system. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite noticeable how much denser the newly laid wet room corner is / feels to walk on compared to the rest of the floor that has Polypipe panels underneath. 

 

So now I need to mitre the corner. Planning on just going across the noggins in the walls though I need to put some more in:

 

20180402_223848

 

20180402_223835

 

Edited by Onoff
Noggings or noggins?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I turn the bath tap (s) off it sounds like the pipes are banging in the wall! Not always though. I thought I'd been really careful clipping and insulating.

 

So up in the loft:

 

20170122_170711

 

Then down through the ceiling:

 

20170122_170809

 

Then down the wall in 'Vs':

 

SAM_3492

 

SAM_3491

 

The 'Vs' removed have been fiamed back in less the pipe stand off.

 

This is all packed with insulation now:

 

SAM_3487

 

Maybe where the pipes pass thru here?

 

SAM_3485

 

I could foam in there? Just can't figure it.

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

It's not banging in the new stuff, it just sounds like it is. It'll be water hammer due to the new taps being 1/4 turn instead of 10 turn.  

 

Ta. So would putting everything on mains pressure (eventually) sort this? Guessing maybe not?

 

Pressure at the moment is pretty good tbh.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...