Nickfromwales Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Just turn the taps off gently for now, and fit a small water hammer arrestor vessel ( EV ) when you go to mains. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) So once again powered by Cobra and a strange aubergine recipe the wife got from the Aldi website... Mitreing this corner tonight or at least making a stab. I first considered putting noggins across as previous. Then I figured continuous vertical support would be better so I ripped a length of 2"x2": And after a bit of reverse Pythagoras and some duct tape: Got to decide whether I'll ply this before putting the Aquapanel on. I think it's just the handset riser going on this wall. She'll be right I reckon! Beer o'clock (again). Edited April 3, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 1 hour ago, Onoff said: So once again powered by Cobra and a strange aubergine recipe the wife got from the Aldi website... Mitreing this corner tonight or at least making a stab. I first considered putting noggins across as previous. Then I figured continuous vertical support would be better so I ripped a length of 2"x2": And after a bit of reverse Pythagoras and some duct tape: Got to decide whether I'll ply this before putting the Aquapanel on. I think it's just the handset riser going on this wall. She'll be right I reckon! Beer o'clock (again). lets not get hasty, how are you going to fix the end of your boarding? you either need to put some new noggins in next to those fillets to pick up the board or nog where you want those fillets, board the wall first, then fix the fillets (probably in a slightly different place) through the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 22 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: lets not get hasty, how are you going to fix the end of your boarding? you either need to put some new noggins in next to those fillets to pick up the board or nog where you want those fillets, board the wall first, then fix the fillets (probably in a slightly different place) through the board. Do you mean the ends of main wall boards that come in from the left and right where they butt up to the fillets? Maybe a full height ply "wing" on the back of the fillets? The tile is only 400mm wide. I'm a bit lacking in ply at the mo, at least marine ply that is. Was half thinking to screw a nom. 400mm wide, full height, ply board to those fillets then just screw thru to attach to the wall noggins. At the base I'll maybe just stick the ply board to the concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 3 minutes ago, Onoff said: Do you mean the ends of main wall boards that come in from the left and right where they butt up to the fillets? Maybe a full height ply "wing" on the back of the fillets? The tile is only 400mm wide. I'm a bit lacking in ply at the mo, at least marine ply that is. Was half thinking to screw a nom. 400mm wide, full height, ply board to those fillets then just screw thru to attach to the wall noggins. At the base I'll maybe just stick the ply board to the concrete. have you allowed for the thickness of plasterboard? the last thing you want is to end up with a gap a tile and a bit wide, but yes i meant the wall boards, coming from either side, how often have you got a noggin to fix the fillets to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 24 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: have you allowed for the thickness of plasterboard? the last thing you want is to end up with a gap a tile and a bit wide, but yes i meant the wall boards, coming from either side, how often have you got a noggin to fix the fillets to? I've yet to allow for the 12.5mm thickness of "pb" though in this case it'll be 12.5mm Aquapanel. Very conscious of that. Not enough noggins tbh. I'm thinking now, instead of noggins, to put a vertical infill of 6"x2" at right angles to the studs nearest the fillets. Loads of support then. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) 6 hours ago, Construction Channel said: nog where you want those fillets, board the wall first, then fix the fillets (probably in a slightly different place) through the board. Just re-read this bit! Like the idea of boarding first and the same as I think @Nickfromwales did on the one he did / SWMBO saw / I'm now copying! I'm going to complicate it though and continue down my meandering path for now if only to save on Aquapanel for doing the pockets which I never allowed for. Was debating once this triangle is full height & plumbing done whether to fill it up with EPS beads. Very lossy corner this what with the soil going through. Edited April 4, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 Trying to figure this corner out. I've found some seemingly decent 18mm ply although not marine, that I can rip to do the full height, something like this on plan: What thickness do I allow for tile adhesive, which I've not accounted for? As in if I use a 6mm notched trowel does it squash down to 3, 4, 5??? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) Scored a couple of 3/4 size 18mm ply sheets (old site hoarding) ages ago. Nice close "grain" on it. Not like some of the falling apart crap I've come across on site. Not marine ply but beggars can't be etc: One side's painted blue but hey ho, that can go on the inside. Ripped to width with a 45deg edge each side: The Aquapanel will be Sikaflex'd (or something cheaper maybe) to this. Might get a bit of a sanding down: The vertical ply will only carry the shower hose slider and hose outlet. I'll make it so if I do need access the backplate there'll be a sacrificial tile! Edit: I've assumed an 8mm notched trowel for the walls bedding down to 4mm. Edited April 8, 2018 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 I possibly need to introduce an extension piece between the hose connector and backplate. As the extension / backplate joint is going to be hidden for evermore is liquid PTFE the best option? Did wonder if I could flux and solder it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Cant you mount the tap fitting closer? Fewer joints the better. The good news is that when you arent showering this fitting wont be under pressure, so a wee leak shouldnt be a disaster (not that you would want one anyway). Mine are just behind the boards and I will have to shorten the piece that goes into the surface thingy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 7 minutes ago, CC45 said: Cant you mount the tap fitting closer? Fewer joints the better. The good news is that when you arent showering this fitting wont be under pressure, so a wee leak shouldnt be a disaster (not that you would want one anyway). Mine are just behind the boards and I will have to shorten the piece that goes into the surface thingy. Because I have 18mm of ply then 12.5mm Aquapanel, nom 4mm of adhesive then 8mm of tile, even without cutting the brass thread down and keeping the shower hose chrome (red) 4mm into the tile, the backplate will be in the ply "zone": Introducing the extension piece puts the base plate behind the ply: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Just use ptfe tape, as it's going to be hidden, twice as much as you think it will need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 5 hours ago, Onoff said: Edit: I've assumed an 8mm notched trowel for the walls bedding down to 4mm. About right, if your using 12mm tile trims . 3 hours ago, Onoff said: Did wonder if I could flux and solder it... 100% what I would do, and I posted pics of the last one I did where I did exactly that. Bombproof. You can get one of those backplates that's end feed too, not compression, so bombbombproof. That is an actual word btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Thinking ahead... I'm going to look at putting in some strong mounts for a future shower seat. Do they tend to have a Geberit style frame, standard fixing centres etc? The time it's taking and the state of my knees, back, joints in general etc I might as well fit the seat now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 What about these:https://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate/56415 You could mount this on the aquapanel, trim the 15mm pipe to size (this is in the void so no need to be too ott) and the connect up. Couldnt be much easier or quicker (I realise the latter advantage isnt that important to you ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 24 minutes ago, CC45 said: What about these:https://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate/56415 You could mount this on the aquapanel, trim the 15mm pipe to size (this is in the void so no need to be too ott) and the connect up. Couldnt be much easier or quicker (I realise the latter advantage isnt that important to you ??) I think I've proposed that exact fitting myself in the past! However...it would mean a soldered joint deeper in the wall. If I go with @Nickfromwales idea of the soldered joint close to the front then if it does go tits up and leak I've only got to break one tile out and I can get at the fitting easily. I'm aiming for no joints in the wall other than where the pipes connect to the shower valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: soldered joint close to the front then if it does go tits up and leak I've only got to break one tile out and I can get at the fitting easily. Test it before you seal it up - easy to do to a threaded fitting and a bit of pipe .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Just messing with the ply tonight. Screwed & glued to the fillets. Lack of tea stopped play early....though she did do a nice chilli! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 (edited) 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: Test it before you seal it up - easy to do to a threaded fitting and a bit of pipe .. Will do. You're awake then? Those long haul flights can really mess you up! Edited April 9, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 36 minutes ago, Onoff said: I think I've proposed that exact fitting myself in the past! However...it would mean a soldered joint deeper in the wall. If I go with @Nickfromwales idea of the soldered joint close to the front then if it does go tits up and leak I've only got to break one tile out and I can get at the fitting easily. I'm aiming for no joints in the wall other than where the pipes connect to the shower valve. Solder it and do as per my pic . If it leaks, I'll eat my hat, his hat AND your hat. Crack on boyo . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Got the mitred corner ply in (temporarily ) and each edge fixed where the red clouds are. Pretty secure tbh. Just playing with the shower valve and riser rail positions... Thereafter I'll insulate the Hell out of that corner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 don't mount the slide rail too low - I did this once and it is a right pain for anyone of a normal height. In the new house I've allowed plenty of height - easier to lower the head than move the slide rail later.... Its shaping up now. When you get the boards up - it will look very different again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 6 minutes ago, CC45 said: don't mount the slide rail too low - I did this once and it is a right pain for anyone of a normal height. In the new house I've allowed plenty of height - easier to lower the head than move the slide rail later.... Its shaping up now. When you get the boards up - it will look very different again. Yep. I'm seriously trying to set it at a height that's both convenient now and makes a nod towards Part M if we ever need to sit. Tbh I'll be under the rainfall head when I'm in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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