July 16, 20224 yr Just now, TonyT said: ERBAUER STRAIGHT SHANK MASONRY DRILL BIT 14 X 200MM (425HY will fit a 10mm chuck Sorry that’s the screw fix code
July 16, 20224 yr 12 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Everytime I use my 5.5 to 8mm set of these, I'm sure it was you who recommended them, it's a pleasure to use.. great brand. Will do if.. But can I get this into my drill tho is the Q. And is my drill ok to use, if I can? I assume your drill chuck is a 13mm one? It'll be written on the end. This Bosch bit will fit I'm sure, it's reduced shank.
July 16, 20224 yr Author 11 minutes ago, Onoff said: I assume your drill chuck is a 13mm one? It'll be written on the end. This Bosch bit will fit I'm sure, it's reduced shank. No it's a 10mm in fact. Never noticed this info on it before!
July 16, 20224 yr Author 15 minutes ago, Onoff said: I assume your drill chuck is a 13mm one? It'll be written on the end. This Bosch bit will fit I'm sure, it's reduced shank. Yup indeed it will according to bosch themselves. Great. Thats an "extra £6" on this bosch one well spent I just know. I'm gonna need every scrap of help doing this solo. Thanks chaps.
July 16, 20224 yr Author 28 minutes ago, TonyT said: ERBAUER STRAIGHT SHANK MASONRY DRILL BIT 14 X 200MM (425HY will fit a 10mm chuck Hi Tony, I'd have snapped that one up if I had a wickes here. Alas not. Thanks though. Zoot.
July 16, 20224 yr Seems that Erbauer one is available at Screwfix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-masonry-drill-bit-14-x-200mm/425hy#product_additional_details_container Toolstation for the Bosch one? https://www.toolstation.com/bosch-expert-multi-construction-tct-drill-bit/p84287?
July 16, 20224 yr 27 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Hi Tony, I'd have snapped that one up if I had a wickes here. Alas not. Thanks though. Zoot. It’s a screw fix code not a wickes
July 16, 20224 yr Author 3 hours ago, TonyT said: It’s a screw fix code not a wickes Ah yes you did say this before didn't you/ memory's crap. I think maybe the bosch for a few squids more. Great help tho- zoot.
July 17, 20224 yr Author 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Tbh it's not a major deal to change that chuck on your drill to a 13mm one. Will bear this in mind. A few of these swiss drills for £25, total bargain might get a spare.
July 17, 20224 yr 12 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Will bear this in mind. A few of these swiss drills for £25, total bargain might get a spare. Your key chuck I'm guessing is part number 1 608 571 054. That's a Ø1-10 MM, 1/2"-24UNF.
July 17, 20224 yr Author 3 hours ago, Onoff said: Your key chuck I'm guessing is part number 1 608 571 054. That's a Ø1-10 MM, 1/2"-24UNF. Close. Its a Jacobs. And numbers.. 3/64 - 3/8. Then 1.0 - 10mm. Then 3/8 x 24 -s2. All over my head bar the mm's. Your depth of knowledge is never short of impressive- do you have an engineering degree Onoff?
July 17, 20224 yr I thought it would be a chuck made by Bosch as that 608... number is on the parts list for that drill. Saying that, they (Bosch), like everyone else change parts or sub parts out. Or they produce a batch of drills for a particular seller that have to be brought in on a price Tbh though Jacobs generally means a drill chuck like Hoover means vacuum cleaner i.e a traditionally very good make. You could change the chuck then for a 3/8"-24 but 13mm capacity instead of 10mm. 3/8" is the UNF thread size where the chuck connects to the drill. 24 is the "tpi", teeth per inch of that thread. Generally that will have a 10mm chuck. 10mm tends to be on lower spec, cheaper drills. Bigger, better drills, that take a 13mm bit tend to have a 1/2"-20 thread connection. So that's a 1/2" UNF thread with 20tpi. However...you can and I've done a few, get a 13mm chuck with a 3/8"-24 thread. Need to be careful not to over stress the drill if you do this.
July 18, 20224 yr Author @Onoff mine's fine as is for now: bit bought from toolstn today ( good find saves £2!) & fits. Amazing breadth of engineering knowledge you have, & it's going in my noggin too. As much as it can cope with. Thx zooter.
July 20, 20224 yr Author @Onoff parcel delivered by spotty evri herbert 4pm. Thanks so much. Will dive into it/ box tmrw. Zoot.
August 5, 20224 yr Author Hi chaps. Right it's zoot-liftoff time. I've plotted my ledger 7 mount positions, avoiding my perpendicular joist positions, & marked these 7 on the wall. But just thought is it best to mark my 7 upon my ledger > drill holes > offer timber up > drill thru to mark the walls? Maybe two sturdy rawl-plugged (temporary) screws into wall, to sit the timber upon.. get level > drill thru holes etc? I've done this plotted mount hole positions. Missing (9 total) joists @400mm centres. Mounts are 30mm down/ up, from btm/ top of timber edge. Comments welcome. 3220mm W. [I need to clear some furry guests away 1st mind you!].
August 5, 20224 yr I found it’s difficult to accurately mark a number of holes so I would fix either end on your bolts (making sure it’s level) then drill the other 5 in between through the timber into the wall, all 7 should then line up, remove timber, fit bolts/studs with your spacers the re fix timber to all 7 studs 👍
August 5, 20224 yr 1 hour ago, joe90 said: I found it’s difficult to accurately mark a number of holes so I would fix either end on your bolts (making sure it’s level) then drill the other 5 in between through the timber into the wall, all 7 should then line up, remove timber, fit bolts/studs with your spacers the re fix timber to all 7 studs 👍 +1 An alternative is to prop the ledger up on some timbers against the wall and drill through it like that. You could pre-drill the ledger on the deck then just spot through when it's propped.
August 5, 20224 yr Author 1 hour ago, joe90 said: I found it’s difficult to accurately mark a number of holes so I would fix either end on your bolts (making sure it’s level) then drill the other 5 in between through the timber into the wall, all 7 should then line up, remove timber, fit bolts/studs with your spacers the re fix timber to all 7 studs 👍 Hi J. Good idea.. but would it still be a pig to get it level like this, fixing it one each end to start with I wonder. Hence if I had a perch, I could easily shim it level. Then drill my two ( thinking as i type) end ones & continue the rest like your idea. Or drill just one end stud in, slip my board on, pivot it up to a predone perch, shim it level etc. hmm.
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