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Zoot wood balcony job.


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12 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Everytime I use my 5.5 to 8mm set of these, I'm sure it was you who recommended them, it's a pleasure to use.. great brand. Will do if..

 

But can I get this into my drill tho is the Q. And is my drill ok to use, if I can?

 

I assume your drill chuck is a 13mm one? It'll be written on the end. 

 

This Bosch bit will fit I'm sure, it's reduced shank.

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11 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I assume your drill chuck is a 13mm one? It'll be written on the end. 

 

This Bosch bit will fit I'm sure, it's reduced shank.

No it's a 10mm in fact. Never noticed this info on it before!

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15 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I assume your drill chuck is a 13mm one? It'll be written on the end. 

 

This Bosch bit will fit I'm sure, it's reduced shank.

Yup indeed it will according to bosch themselves.

 

Great. Thats an "extra £6" on this bosch one well spent I just know. I'm gonna need every scrap of help doing this solo.

Thanks chaps.

 

 

 

 

 

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28 minutes ago, TonyT said:

ERBAUER STRAIGHT SHANK MASONRY DRILL BIT 14 X 200MM (425HY
 

will fit a 10mm chuck


Hi Tony, I'd have snapped that one up if I had a wickes here.

 

Alas not. Thanks though. Zoot.

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Tbh it's not a major deal to change that chuck on your drill to a 13mm one.

Will bear this in mind. 
 

A few of these swiss drills for £25, total bargain might get a spare. 

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12 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Will bear this in mind. 
 

A few of these swiss drills for £25, total bargain might get a spare. 

 

Your key chuck I'm guessing is part number 1 608 571 054.

 

That's a Ø1-10 MM, 1/2"-24UNF.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Your key chuck I'm guessing is part number 1 608 571 054.

 

That's a Ø1-10 MM, 1/2"-24UNF.

 

 

Close. Its a Jacobs. And numbers.. 3/64 - 3/8. Then 1.0 - 10mm. Then 3/8 x 24 -s2.

 

All over my head bar the mm's.

 

Your depth of knowledge is never short of impressive- do you have an engineering degree Onoff?

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I thought it would be a chuck made by Bosch as that 608... number is on the parts list for that drill.

 

Saying that, they (Bosch), like everyone else change parts or sub parts out. Or they produce a batch of drills for a particular seller that have to be brought in on a price

 

Tbh though Jacobs generally means a drill chuck like Hoover means vacuum cleaner i.e a traditionally very good make. 

 

You could change the chuck then for a 3/8"-24 but 13mm capacity instead of 10mm.

 

3/8" is the UNF thread size where the chuck connects to the drill. 24 is the "tpi", teeth per inch of that thread. Generally that will have a 10mm chuck. 10mm tends to be on lower spec, cheaper drills.

 

Bigger, better drills, that take a 13mm bit tend to have a 1/2"-20 thread connection. So that's a 1/2" UNF thread with 20tpi.

 

However...you can and I've done a few, get a 13mm chuck with a 3/8"-24 thread. 

 

Need to be careful not to over stress the drill if you do this.

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@Onoff mine's fine as is for now: bit bought from toolstn today ( good find saves £2!) & fits. 

 

Amazing breadth of engineering knowledge you have, & it's going in my noggin too. As much as it can cope with.

 

Thx zooter.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi chaps. Right it's zoot-liftoff time.

 

I've plotted my ledger 7 mount positions, avoiding my perpendicular joist positions, & marked these 7 on the wall.
 

But just thought is it best to mark my 7 upon my ledger > drill holes > offer timber up > drill thru to mark the walls?

 

Maybe two sturdy rawl-plugged (temporary) screws into wall, to sit the timber upon.. get level > drill thru holes etc?

 

I've done this plotted mount hole positions. Missing (9 total) joists @400mm centres. Mounts are 30mm down/ up, from btm/ top of timber edge. Comments welcome. 3220mm W.

 

[I need to clear some furry guests away 1st mind you!].

 

 

 

 

 

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I found it’s difficult to accurately mark a number of holes so I would fix either end on your bolts (making sure it’s level) then drill the other 5 in between through the timber into the wall, all 7 should then line up, remove timber, fit bolts/studs with your spacers the re fix timber to all 7 studs 👍

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1 hour ago, joe90 said:

I found it’s difficult to accurately mark a number of holes so I would fix either end on your bolts (making sure it’s level) then drill the other 5 in between through the timber into the wall, all 7 should then line up, remove timber, fit bolts/studs with your spacers the re fix timber to all 7 studs 👍

 

+1

 

An alternative is to prop the ledger up on some timbers against the wall and drill through it like that. You could pre-drill the ledger on the deck then just spot through when it's propped.

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1 hour ago, joe90 said:

I found it’s difficult to accurately mark a number of holes so I would fix either end on your bolts (making sure it’s level) then drill the other 5 in between through the timber into the wall, all 7 should then line up, remove timber, fit bolts/studs with your spacers the re fix timber to all 7 studs 👍


Hi J. Good idea.. but would it still be a pig to get it level like this, fixing it one each end to start with I wonder. Hence if I had a perch, I could easily shim it level. Then drill my two ( thinking as i type) end ones & continue the rest like your idea.

 

Or drill just one end stud in, slip my board on, pivot it up to a predone perch, shim it level etc. hmm.

 

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