Zoot wood balcony job.

[zoothorn]

@Onoff do let me know what post cost is for the tube bits, & if you need my address & I'll fire over some £'s. Paypal?

 

Thanks chaps, hope y'all enjoying the sun. My old part of cottage cool as a cucumber. Not balcony job weather tho.

 

Thanks, Zoot.

 

 

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

@Onoff do let me know what post cost is for the tube bits, & if you need my address & I'll fire over some £'s. Paypal?

 

Thanks chaps, hope y'all enjoying the sun. My old part of cottage cool as a cucumber. Not balcony job weather tho.

 

Thanks, Zoot.

 

 

 

Haven't forgotten about this. The tubes should be quick to cut, might do them in a mo after a coffee.

 

The square stainless, plate washers, a bit longer. The sooner I start I suppose!

 

Standard M12 washers, just a case of digging them out.

 

So spacers at 45mm for definite?

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Haven't forgotten about this. The tubes should be quick to cut, might do them in a mo after a coffee.

 

The square stainless, plate washers, a bit longer. The sooner I start I suppose!

 

Standard M12 washers, just a case of digging them out.

 

So spacers at 45mm for definite?

Hi Onoff. Yes 45mm for definite. Much appreciated. Zh

[Onoff]

Right, stainless tubes cut. I'd cut slightly over length with the intent of turning them dead square on the BiLs lathe. Then realised we're a Covid household at the mo so probably not very sensible to go over to his place. Thus I've cut them on the bandsaw, dressed the ends with a flap disc and gotten rid of the internal burr as best as with a countersunk bit. They are square enough for whet you're doing. Length is 48/49mm.

 

Shown on an M12 stud:

 

 

Then I've sorted 20 flat round washers, 10 spring washers and 10 full nuts. All stainless but a mix of A2 and A4 grade. 

 

 

I'll try and remember to give you a small tub of anti seize paste. Messy stuff you smear on the stainless stud itself or inside the nut, that stops it locking up. Stainless, especially low grade A2 is notorious for it (locking up) if using nyloc nuts. No nylocs here, instead use a full nut and spring washer. Shown here on a genuine, M12, resin anchor stud. Has the hex drive one end and chisel point the other. For what you're doing just use stainless studding, cut to length. Anti seize paste is belt and braces.

 

 

I'd have carried on and cut the square washers but it was making SWMBO's post Covid headache worse.

 

I'll try and cut the square washers tomorrow.

Edited July 11, 2022 by Onoff

[zoothorn]

@Onoff really fantastic that! Thanks Onoff. Sorry to add to swmbo's headache. I'm sure the slightly non 90* ends will be fine. 
 

M12 stud to get.. noted. Let me know postage/ any costs at all.
 

Huge help- Zoot.

[Onoff]

Evening @zoothorn Right I've drilled the 30x5 stainless flat bar at 14mm and started cutting the square washers. Sod's law I think the cutting compound is causing the bandsaw blade to slip. Truth be told I've had a couple so am giving up for tonight. 

 

Basically you'll get these:

 

 

I'll tell you know the hole won't be dead centre like this in all of them! This is what you get when you don't employ a professional!

 

These square washers btw are from grade A4/316 stainless what you use for maritime applications. They won't corrode unless you I don't know over heat it or something. As in its good stuff. Tbh I'd have preferred to make them 50x50 but beggars can't be choosers so they're 30x30.

 

In use then the stud will project out of the spacer and there'll be a square washer on the end of the spacer, between it and the ledger. Mocked up like this:

 

 

 

The other side, the front of a ledger then again you ideally want a large diameter washer to spread the load. Here you could afford to use galvanised or even bright zinc plated ones for now. You can buy M12 square washers easily enough. Worst case if they rust you can change them later. The thing is that at the front of the ledger you can access it. I'll chuck in some large form zinc washers for the front, it'll get you going. So here it goes big washer, spring washer, full nut:

 

 

Ideally you want "3 threads" projecting from the nut so about 5mm but as it's wood, I'd go 10mm. Leave your M12 studding over length and cut off later. We'll discuss how razor sharp the ends of cut studding can be another time, along with how to address it. 

[Big Jimbo]

Fair play On Off. What a top fella you are. I will be in touch when i want some light engineering done.

[Onoff]

2 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said:

Fair play On Off. What a top fella you are. I will be in touch when i want some light engineering done.

 

Need to get my own little lathe up and running. I did make some headway this week and uncovered it at least. Slight problem is it's stored vertical.

[joe90]

13 hours ago, Big Jimbo said:

Fair play On Off. What a top fella you are. I will be in touch when i want some light engineering done.

And we wonder why he takes so long to do his own jobs, too busy helping others 👍 (like he helped me).

[Onoff]

8 hours ago, joe90 said:

And we wonder why he takes so long to do his own jobs, too busy helping others 👍 (like he helped me).

 

To be fair he gets loads of help & advice on here etc.

 

Done I think...I can cut a couple more tubes to make 10 of everything.

 

[zoothorn]

16 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

To be fair he gets loads of help & advice on here etc.

 

Done I think...I can cut a couple more tubes to make 10 of everything.

 

Hi Onoff.. what a gent you are. I wish I could help someone in return, but a donation to BH will have to suffice for now. 

 

Can you fling them out via hermes/ evri I wonder? cheapest possibly. 

 

Splendid stuff, all understood. I've just got to not drill through the back of the block.. or Im rogered.

 

Gratefully, Zoot.

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

On 12/07/2022 at 10:38, zoothorn said:

M12 stud to get.. noted.

 

You will I think need some stainless steel studding, A2 grade. It comes in 1m lengths. I reckon you'll just get away with cutting into 5 nom 200mm lengths. Cut with a hacksaw or slitting disc in a 115mm grinder. Ideally then buff the ends/de-burr with a flap disc (in the grinder).

 

https://www.toolstation.com/stainless-steel-threaded-bar/p37920?

 

Your drilled holes, in the block, need to be properly cleaned out. 80mm depth is a little on the short side for M12 stud.

 

Rough calculation for the stud length:

 

Drilled hole = 80mm

Spacer = 50mm

Square washer = 5mm

Ledger = 45mm

Washer = 2mm

Spring washer = 3mm

M12 full nut = 10mm

Thread projection = 5mm

 

Adds up to 200mm

[PeterW]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

You will I think need some stainless steel studding, A2 grade. It comes in 1m lengths. I reckon you'll just get away with cutting into 5 nom 200mm lengths. Cut with a hacksaw or slitting disc in a 115mm grinder. Ideally then buff the ends/de-burr with a flap disc (in the grinder).

 

https://www.toolstation.com/stainless-steel-threaded-bar/p37920?

 

Your drilled holes, in the block, need to be properly cleaned out. 80mm depth is a little on the short side for M12 stud.

 

Rough calculation for the stud length:

 

Drilled hole = 80mm

Spacer = 50mm

Square washer = 5mm

Ledger = 45mm

Washer = 2mm

Spring washer = 3mm

M12 full nut = 10mm

Thread projection = 5mm

 

Adds up to 200mm

let me check what I’ve got - think my M12 studs are 200mm or thereabouts. 

[Onoff]

38 minutes ago, PeterW said:

let me check what I’ve got - think my M12 studs are 200mm or thereabouts. 

 

I've just some A4 Fischer ones, photographed above somewhere, think they're only 160mm. Saying that I want to keep them for when I make steel framed infills either side of the gate pillars. 

[zoothorn]

23 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

You will I think need some stainless steel studding, A2 grade. It comes in 1m lengths. I reckon you'll just get away with cutting into 5 nom 200mm lengths. Cut with a hacksaw or slitting disc in a 115mm grinder. Ideally then buff the ends/de-burr with a flap disc (in the grinder).

 

https://www.toolstation.com/stainless-steel-threaded-bar/p37920?

 

Your drilled holes, in the block, need to be properly cleaned out. 80mm depth is a little on the short side for M12 stud.

 

Rough calculation for the stud length:

 

Drilled hole = 80mm

Spacer = 50mm

Square washer = 5mm

Ledger = 45mm

Washer = 2mm

Spring washer = 3mm

M12 full nut = 10mm

Thread projection = 5mm

 

Adds up to 200mm

Excellent. I'll keep this info with me for the job. 
 

Understand the 200mm figure, makes sense. I used some similar stuff into my concrete cabin pads.. I think 10mm. So have a brush thingy to poke in/ important I can see, & a bellows too.. should be fine.

 

I think safer going 80mm than possibly breaching thru the back. Fingers crossed will be ok.

 

Thanks alot Onoff.

[zoothorn]

23 hours ago, PeterW said:

let me check what I’ve got - think my M12 studs are 200mm or thereabouts. 

Just checked my cabin pads had 8mm studs. Crikey this job's gonna put hairs on me chest with m12! 
 

thx Zoot

[Onoff]

All boxed up. I'll get them on Evri in the next couple of days.

 

As well as the fixings is a chewing gum pot full of copper anti seize paste. Double bagged etc.

[Onoff]

You will also need a 14mm masonry drill bit thinking about it. Something like this:

 

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Masonry-Drill-Bit---14-x-150mm/p/168043

 

I'm guessing you don't have an SDS drill?

[zoothorn]

17 hours ago, Onoff said:

All boxed up. I'll get them on Evri in the next couple of days.

 

As well as the fixings is a chewing gum pot full of copper anti seize paste. Double bagged etc.

Fab Onoff what can I say- very kind indeed. £6 evri, plus hardware costs? PM me.

 

SDS drill.. is a hammer type, or one with a hammer setting? Mine does have/ switch on top. Precious this swiss made I sacrificed my smaller bosch on the porch/ burnt it out, don't  want to with this.

 

Thanks, zoot.

 

 

[zoothorn]

I don't think mine is an SDS drill is it. It's something to do with the chuck area. Mine's a std Chuck key type.

 

I did drill into the concrete cabin pads with it, though I used 8mm stud ( so would you have suggested a 10mm hole? Seems logical).. not 12mm. 

 

 

[Onoff]

 

All posted just now via Evri. 1.5kg box wrapped in olive green duct tape.

 

Fyi:

 

10mm drill for M8 studs

12mm drill for M10 studs

14mm drill for M12 studs

[Onoff]

I'm just about to sort my masonry bits. Might have a spare 14mm or two.

[Onoff]

This drill bit would be ideal for your needs. 

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-expert-straight-shank-multipurpose-drill-bit-14-x-250mm/549KY?

 

First off top brand. It'll drill timber and masonry too (metal even if you hit mesh between courses etc). You could prop your ledger up level on some other bits of timber then drill through the timber into the wall. Use insulating tape on the drill bit to gauge the depth.

 

 

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

This drill bit would be ideal for your needs. 

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-expert-straight-shank-multipurpose-drill-bit-14-x-250mm/549KY?

 

First off top brand. It'll drill timber and masonry too (metal even if you hit mesh between courses etc). You could prop your ledger up level on some other bits of timber then drill through the timber into the wall. Use insulating tape on the drill bit to gauge the depth.

 

 

Everytime I use my 5.5 to 8mm set of these, I'm sure it was you who recommended them, it's a pleasure to use.. great brand. Will do if..

 

But can I get this into my drill tho is the Q. And is my drill ok to use, if I can?

[TonyT]

ERBAUER STRAIGHT SHANK MASONRY DRILL BIT 14 X 200MM (425HY
 

will fit a 10mm chuck