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Extension- Last Stuff.


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7 minutes ago, joe90 said:

I cant understand alot of the replies for exactly the same reasons!

It was a joke zoot, you keep referring to my short little finger that struggles to reach the “o”. On my keyboard!.

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

 

Yes, same here, I cant understand alot of the replies for exactly the same reasons! (tbh its this that's equally the reason I get confused as anything that's said I can read clearly!)

 

But I take it on board as the norm for communicating (comms- is that such a 'weird shorthand' ?) in boxes of text one to another. No-one's diction, grammar, shorthand is the same as the next person's. So innevitably -I- get annoyed at -your- diction & grammar equally as you do mine.

 

But I just don't feel the need to vent it out & call people vile names though.

 

zH

 

 

 

There's enough dumbing down of the English language already. Slang and text speak dilutes who we are, or at least who I want to be. You should take pride in your posting and even correct any spelling mistakes when you can. 

 

Just my humble opinion. 

 

I mean seriously, your phone didn't do this. It's punctuation but not of this planet:

 

"So innevitably -I- get annoyed at -your-"

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1 hour ago, joe90 said:

It was a joke zoot, you keep referring to my short little finger that struggles to reach the “o”. On my keyboard!.

 

Yes I got that. Mine was a joke back. But even this was misunderstood..!!!

 

Nevermind, but it prooves my point tho. Meaning -will- be lost in translation -many times- on threads. Just acceptance is the key.

 

Eg. I will say something Peter interprets not as I intended, reply, & I am totally confused/ have no clue about the reply.

Peter will say something I interpret not as -he- intended, & reply, he is irritated as it seems I'm not listening.

 

Jfb, Roundtits, PeterS understand this & make it super clear to read their posts. But I can't expect that of most.

 

That's one 3rd reason thread is looong. One 3rd is my infuriating CH fitted -during- extention last stuff is protractedly impossible to determine what is 'wrong' if anything is, who is responsible if it is. One 3rd is bc it takes me 10x the time to do a job you could.

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5 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

There's enough dumbing down of the English language already. Slang and text speak dilutes who we are, or at least who I want to be. You should take pride in your posting and even correct any spelling mistakes when you can. 

 

Just my humble opinion. 

 

I mean seriously, your phone didn't do this. It's punctuation but not of this planet:

 

"So innevitably -I- get annoyed at -your-"

 

Oh for goodnessv sake Onoff. Nitpicking grammatical errors when its perfectly clear what my intent was, is the most infuriating thing of all to contend with.

 

Gonna get annoyed its has no apostrophe? or gonna is an abbreviation?? its a build forum not a literature forum!

 

 

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Until I can get replies about this 35* flow temp (afaict it is) & establish A) f this needs to be got to @ 55*C in order to then continue on & test the rads....

 

I can say with certainty (and assumed I already had) that, as demonstrated by the calculations I gave you, unless you can get nearer to 55C you will struggle to heat the house with the current sized radiators. 

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I need to get back on track, please.


@PeterW please can you give thoughts on my 35*C flow temp- as far as I can establish that is my flow temp, from most of my 5x temp readings where you told me to do it using your diagram.

 

If me & Vaillant guy put in 55*C (& assuming its still in there, Ive asked Vaillant to tell me & waiting on a reply).. does this suggest to you I have (another) major fault? & if so, does it seem n/a to continue on with individual rad temp tests & BTU findings?

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5 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

when its perfectly clear what my intent was

 

No, it's really not. 10,000 words of undecipherable gobbledygook when a quick sketch or picture would help everyone is the norm. Have you ever stopped to think that's it's only your threads that descend into these sorts of exchanges. That marks you out as the issue. 

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6 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

can you give thoughts on my 35*C flow temp- as far as I can establish that is my flow temp, from most of my 5x temp readings

If you set your ASHP to deliver 55’ but are getting only 35’ there would appear to be a fault with the ASHP, I know these units tend to ramp up their temp so keep taking readings at regular intervals, then if still 35’ send this finding to Vaillant.

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5 minutes ago, MJNewton said:

 

I can say with certainty (and assumed I already had) that, as demonstrated by the calculations I gave you, unless you can get nearer to 55C you will struggle to heat the house with the current sized radiators. 

 

Absolutely understand this MJN.

 

So, now the Q (which sits like a millstone) is -why- I seem to be measuring 35* flow temp from the box thing if 55* is put in the system.

 

And does reading the temp at this particular pipe getting 44* one day, 35* on multiple readings over 2 following days.. suggest my flow temp can be called 35* at all? (or maybe 44*, even if I read this only on one occasion?!).

 

And why I find these temp disparities at all?

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3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

So, now the Q (which sits like a millstone) is -why- I seem to be measuring 35* flow temp from the box thing if 55* is put in the system.

 

Either you/they haven't put 55C into the system or, if you have, it is failing to deliver that. If the latter that's one for the installers/Vaillant I think. 

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2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Waiting too: for Onoff's germs to go off it.

 

3 days I walked around "carrying" that radiator key to marinate and bloody uncomfortable it was too! Getting it out brought tears to my eyes I can tell you!

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3 minutes ago, joe90 said:

If you set your ASHP to deliver 55’ but are getting only 35’ there would appear to be a fault with the ASHP, I know these units tend to ramp up their temp so keep taking readings at regular intervals, then if still 35’ send this finding to Vaillant.

 

Good. Thanks, that tallies with my logic. And I have in fact sent yet another email to Vaillant renewables dept about this.

 

At the moment I have 4 reasons/ coinciding 'issues'/ all the same from install august/ I'm emailing Vaillant about. So As well as trying to answer the help on here Im also having to tackle Vaillant again, again, again, relentlessly about faults, for 7 months Ive been doing this. Just -this- is exhausting.

 

1. Night noise continues overnight/ heating comes on when room temp 12.5*,

2. Leak continues (I saw today- installer fault I know this, but impossible to get onto them let alone -another- visit. So I give up with this).

3. Delay until rads suddenly get hot 8am, nothing/ no rad heat at all from 6.30 to 8am.

4. Poor rad performance/ flow temp seems 20* off.

 

Until I can get no.4 "fixed" I don't see it logical to continue with BTU figs, rad tests. And I don't see this happening for months, if ever, as Vaillant will say its normal to expect this 20* drop (probably) or give excuse after excuse I can't decipher.

 

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From another thread by Zoothorn.

 

Hi ProDave- sorry I forgot I replied with my update of it just installed, to my ASHP thread of last year!

 

Its a Vaillant arotherm 7.5kW. Split? I'm not sure, but it does rads + dhw. Nothing else.

 

What I have is the big mo-fo fan box outside, & two stiff copper 12mm ish pipes (clad in white thermo blanket stuff) just flexible enough to bend into a 3ft coil next to the fan unit, & then up my outside wall > bend inwards into big hole drilled > into upstairs cupboard new vaillant boiler. They make quite a droning juddering noise when 'on', pressure inside or s'thing.

 

Sorry photos are n/a. cam impossible.

 

Oddly the installer chap came back (due to an odd error code on control unit, but he can't shift it) establishing all actually running fine despite error.. so did a rads full heat test. Bar a wee leak (coming back again with some rockwool- kindly to try tamp the white pipe noise) running well. Hot water is fab.

 

Lastly he reset control back to some sort of default setting I guess, 1st asking if I wanted rads on (no), only thing I saw was him dialling temp down to 5.0*C so rads all off (got the gist of the dial, to do this much). And since then.. its all been -blissfully- quiet & Ive not once heard the fanny mo-fo on, once.. so no night noise/ no pipes in action at all. I don't understand.. but dare not even look at it in case I wake it up & it gurgles & judders & makes fk knows what noises. Im terrified of it.

 

Apart from -jesus the flamin coincidence- right now.. when its made the 1st 'on' droning fan-on > pipe-pressure annoying noise since he left on thursday. 5 mins only tho. Its a prominently, intrusively annoying drone. I will not handle it if it does this constantly with rads on.. I'll have no choice but turn it off (If I'm able).

 


 

Maybe separate the heating info on your original thread?

Edited by TonyT
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2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

3 days I walked around "carrying" that radiator key to marinate and bloody uncomfortable it was too! Getting it out brought tears to my eyes I can tell you!

 

thank god that germs joke was understood is all I can say. phew!

 

Now we are on the same page- cheers for the hinges sketch. Yes the bow is effectively like your pic, concave. I also shaped/ sanded-off the door a couple of mm's to 'fit' this bow profile... but only half-managed to do this. But have I c*cked up my hinges all in a line on the door edge doing this-?? *

 

The only spanner in the works, the only reason I cant just follow your clear steps there... is because of my frame-side hinge placement, being not accessible from the frontside with door offered-up. If I was fixing to where the architrave is (so the hinge is flat 180*) next to the door fixings, the frame hinge would be accessible & I could see/ mark fine.

 

But cos my frame hinges on the other side of door: means --I think-- I have really to fix hingrs to the frame 1st. Then put door in, offer it up. Fix hinges to door 2nd.

 

*This is causing me grief trying to figure out how my hinge offset will work, plus fixing them 'wrongly' on frame first/ door 2nd.. without JFDI 'winging it'. Which is almost where I'm at cos my brain's in a fug over it.

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31 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Absolutely understand this MJN.

 

So, now the Q (which sits like a millstone) is -why- I seem to be measuring 35* flow temp from the box thing if 55* is put in the system.

 

And does reading the temp at this particular pipe getting 44* one day, 35* on multiple readings over 2 following days.. suggest my flow temp can be called 35* at all? (or maybe 44*, even if I read this only on one occasion?!).

 

And why I find these temp disparities at all?

Do that "only one radiator turned on" test and the answers might start revealing themselves.  headbang

 

 

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8 minutes ago, TonyT said:

 

Maybe separate the heating info on your original thread?

 

Reasonable- but only you seem to be angry about including discussion on my CH woes here (it was installed during & is intrinsically part of my extention if you ask why its inclusion in 'extention- last stuff').

 

So why the need to be so desperately wanting to close someone's thread when it's proving invaluable to doing my last extention xyz like 'the enforcer'? Seems rather nasty in my opinion, rallying support against me as youve done before iirc. Just calm down & let it be.

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43 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

4. Poor rad performance/ flow temp seems 20* off.

 

Until I can get no.4 "fixed" I don't see it logical to continue with BTU figs

 

I think the calculations are *definitely* still worth it as it'll give you an idea what minimum flow temperature we need to be aiming for. Furthermore, it'll prevent anyone claiming to you that 35C is sufficient.

 

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8 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Do that "only one radiator turned on" test and the answers might start revealing themselves.  headbang

 

 

 

Ok. I was just asking the logical Q of whether any point continuing with -any- test if its so clear I might have a flow temp problem. Which seems only what I can think presently, & joe seems to concur from reply only just now, & concurred too if folks were saying 'Yes! you should be getting 55* on your rad pipes too!' when I asked.

 

So you say yes there is, the 55* flow temp figure might only relate to -one- rad, so close all off bar one (is what I think is your reasoning here) & re-measure.

 

Do you know that flow temp is only at its 'max' with a single rad & its normal to see a significant decreaces in flow temp once a normal ammount of rads running to-? Maybe by measuring your own & finding the same happens?

 

Can I ask what your flow temp is, what you find immediately on the pipe exiting your boiler (assuming maybe a similar no. rads running/ IE not doing a 'single rad test') ?

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One last try.

 

The "only 1 radiator on" test will tell you if the heat pump is actually capable of delivering really hot heating water.  If it is not, then something is wrong with it which may just be a setting.

 

If with only 1 radiator on it gets piping hot, then try 2, then try 3 etc.

 

I am trying to determine if the problem is wrong settings, or the unit just can't deliver enough power for all the radiators together (because it is too small)

 

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39 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

The only spanner in the works, the only reason I cant just follow your clear steps there... is because of my frame-side hinge placement, being not accessible from the frontside with door offered-up. If I was fixing to where the architrave is (so the hinge is flat 180*) next to the door fixings, the frame hinge would be accessible & I could see/ mark fine.

 

It doesn't 'effin matter! I'd have held the door with the hinges fitted, up against the jams and marked the top and bottom of the hinge where it sits against the jam OR architrave with the point of a sharp pencil. Then used a square to project those lines onto the jam face.

 

You sanded the door destroying the ONE straight edge you had. TWAT. You made your bed etc. Sort it out on your own. 

Edited by Onoff
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