Extension- Last Stuff.

[Russell griffiths]

[Onoff]

1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said:

 

Looks like Dexter's workshop.

[zoothorn]

16 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Looks like Dexter's workshop.

 

Haha. yes indeed it does. Dexter's was -very- temporary tho, which this one looks too. I was after something more permanent, the zips will surely fail after a while if designed for 1 or 2 jobs max/ bin.

 

 

[zoothorn]

@Russell griffiths damn good place to start/ good suggestion this. If I could get one more a permanent grade than perhaps this.. Im sorted. The curtain idea tho, if feasable, would mean no zips to fail & less faff to go in/ out.

[ProDave]

3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

 

Yes but how much, just 30min job to undo me dish? no if hooks designed to add to a ladder, & @ £13 clearance in jewsons. .they stay on!

 

What I was wondering if I'm only ever meant to use the top stage, even being 4' short of the gutter, then to use lower one against wall to get up.. but then s'how bridge the gap between is the prob I'm left with of course.

Yes for a roof ladder, you only use one section. It sounds like the ladder you have is too short to sensibly be used as a roof ladder then?

[zoothorn]

14 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Yes for a roof ladder, you only use one section. It sounds like the ladder you have is too short to sensibly be used as a roof ladder then?

 

Well yes I realise each section is too short, but as long as they can be tied together, yes ideally clamped or bolted even, is there any reason then it can't be used sensibly as a roof ladder-?

[zoothorn]

13 hours ago, joe90 said:

yes this is a problem converting ladders to roof ladders, I got round it by using a u clamp and clamping two rungs together to stop the lower section sliding out. You could always just lash with rope tightly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Square-U-Bolts-With-Back-Plates-U-Bolt-For-Boat-And-Live-Stock-Trailers/173312961705?hash=item285a41eca9:g:7sAAAOSwcita9XG5

joe look ive got my ladder here, will be roping Sections together in a bit, and borrow i hope another ladder to get me up to the other.
 

But i have the last tiles to consider putting pressure upon, and how best to get from one ladder to the other. Obviously not via my steps, these just to undo gutter, if that is the right idea.. i dont even know this.

 

thx zoot.

 

 

[Onoff]

https://www.laddersukdirect.co.uk/latest-news/post/how-to-use-a-roof-ladder

 

&

 

https://www.ladderstore.com/blog/why-do-i-need-a-roof-ladder

[zoothorn]

8 minutes ago, Onoff said:

https://www.laddersukdirect.co.uk/latest-news/post/how-to-use-a-roof-ladder

 

&

 

https://www.ladderstore.com/blog/why-do-i-need-a-roof-ladder

I have my roof ladder Onoff, I know how to put in place on a roof.. you can see this.

 

Im just asking how to get up to it, for this particular job. Nothing more than that.

 

Im not asking what is the best tool i can possibly buy for the job, nor what is the best method to get the job done (the answer being get a builder to do it).

 

Ive bought hook extentions, if they exist then theres a way of using them attatched to a std ladder. It may not be the optimum roof ladder in the world, but it is, now, a roof ladder.. and surely adequate for the small job to do.

 

If anyone can help. Thx zoot.

[ToughButterCup]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

...

Im just asking how to get up to it, for this particular job. Nothing more than that.

...

 

Errrrm, how did you get the ladder there in the first place?  And did you hurt your knees on the gutter?

[zoothorn]

4 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:

 

Errrrm, how did you get the ladder there in the first place?  And did you hurt your knees on the gutter?

Errrrm.. by using the steps in the pic. Did i do what??

 

Edited October 18, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

I have my sections lashed together now, one step shorter, the lash making a useful soft cushion on tiles too. So my roof ladder is sorted.

 

Can someone just help me with how best to get up to it, bearing in mind the fragile tiles nearest the gutter. It is far better / safer i ask, rather than jump in and attempt however 'obvious' it might seem. Its the transition between the tricky bit id assume.

 

And can someone just help, is it correct to have removed the gutter, or is it better to have it in place to perhaps rest another ladder against.. protecting the tiles even if damaging the gutter (surely the better option).

 

thx

[PeterW]

Rest both ladders up the side of the roof with the one you will climb against the side wall if possible to stop it sliding. Roof ladder with hooks to the top facing away from the building on the clear side. Bag of sand or ballast on the bottom rung of the ordinary ladder will stop it moving too 

 

Climb 3/4 to the top of your standard ladder (shoulder height to the gutter) then pull the roof ladder upward and lay it onto the roof and push it up so the hooks are over the height of the ridge. Then turn it toward you so it lays on the roof and pull it downward so the roof hooks engage. Now move it back toward the standard ladder so they touch. 
 

At this point I would normally rope the two together and then come back get tools etc then head up.  
 

Getting it down is reverse of above ..!

[ToughButterCup]

Borrow another  ladder with a ladder standoff - or make your own temporary standoff. Here's an example

and make sure the ladder goes way past your gutter, otherwise your knees will suffer (again).

Make sure the bottom of the ladder is braced properly (If I can I often use our car for that ) so that the bottom of the lowest ladder (of the three) cannot move under any circumstances. 

As to the gutter - use your judgement : I'd remove it but I suspect that removing it might cause more aggro for you.  

 

Make sure you can step easily from the lowest ladder onto the roof ladder safely. You might like to ask someone to stand and steady the ladder (as well as having jammed the bottom of it against something immovable ) to increase the level of safety. Make sure also that you can use both hands while on the ladder. In other words, haul tools up after you have climbed to where you need to work. Only move one of your limbs at one time: three points of bodily  contact at all times. If it's wet don't climb. 

 

Oh FFS where do you live? I'll come and give you a hand........

[joe90]

Unlike tiles slates tend to break, I used to have a thick bit of foam (old settee cushion) glued to a piece of ply about 700mm square which I put under the roof ladder at the bottom Foam side down so any load is spread and less likely to break slates. I never bothered to do this with tiles. As said above it’s best to tie the bottom of the vertical ladder to something, even a spike in the ground.

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, ProDave said:

Yes for a roof ladder, you only use one section. It sounds like the ladder you have is too short to sensibly be used as a roof ladder then?

 

@ToughButterCup and @joe90 great help thanks. Did the buffer to stop the ladder shifting/ borrowing a ladder, thethered it to other.. & seemed a fine way to get up onto my roof ladder: which seemed perfectly safe even in its 2-sections tbh/ no cause for any concern. 15 mins to do. no slates dmgd.

 

A job well done- no more telly stuff in & on my house! well worth the 10:1 prep time to job time. Its called the zoot ratio.

 

thanks zH

[zoothorn]

Back to last extention jobs. The door.

 

Presumably its get the frame in, &/ buy & shape, or make a door to fit. If so as its opening 'outwards' (back into adjacent bedroom due to curved-down ceiling area within the knock-thru 'tunnel').. I presume I can fit the door in time, IE do all final bits to room like skirt up to frame > paint > carpet. Then I can take my time on the door over winter.

 

Is this the right idea?

[Onoff]

9 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Is this the right idea?

 

First thing is it a standard door size?

 

https://www.jbkind.com/info-centre/standard-door-sizes#uk-standard-door-sizes

 

I'd be getting the frame and door, fitting the door to the jamb then packing the jams head so it's all nice and square before fixing the frame tight. That's just me. 

 

https://www.wonkeedonkeexljoinery.co.uk/doors-general-information/door-frames/

 

Trouser shims are your friend.

[zoothorn]

10 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

First thing is it a standard door size?

 

https://www.jbkind.com/info-centre/standard-door-sizes#uk-standard-door-sizes

 

I'd be getting the frame and door, fitting the door to the jamb then packing the jams head so it's all nice and square before fixing the frame tight. That's just me. 

 

https://www.wonkeedonkeexljoinery.co.uk/doors-general-information/door-frames/

 

Trouser shims are your friend.

 

Useful page that- thanks/ bookmarked.

 

I think the answer is "I doubt it would ever have been a std size, considering the H issues of the build due to the never-ending struggle for H everywhere".

 

So all I can do is measure my opening: 1970 x 790mm.

[zoothorn]

@Onoff would it seem like the builder was aiming for a std 2'6 width, then whatever H happened. Will 1970 mean I'm ok for a 1981 door?

 

With my upvc french doors, if I only have 1875mm from door 'sill' step to door frame top (having to step over a 10cm frame bit too, not included).. then I'd hope I'm not gonna be as constrained heightwise as these double-doors. Why he gave me such low doors I'll never know- least cost to him?

 

 

[Onoff]

47 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Will 1970 mean I'm ok for a 1981 door?

 

Nope. If you have a 1970mm height from floor to lintel or whatever then a 1981mm door won't fit with out some trimming. 

 

You have to factor in the thickness of the head piece of the frame. You then want a 3mm gap between top of door and underside of head. 

 

What floor finishes are you having that the door will pass over when it's opened?

 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff  door has to open 'back', so it'll pass over the existing adjacent room carpet.

[zoothorn]

@Onoff sorry just re-read my daft Q re. my opening 1975mm & 1981 door! all these newfangled mm's.. I get in a pickle.

 

What I meant to say was, no I don't think I have enough room for a std H door (another factor of the extra depth 1ft fiasco, my ceiling's 1ft lower/ not where it should be & on my plan was a clear 1900 opening: not done then only today I realise: no reason given as I said etc).

[Onoff]

1970/1975mm...neither will fit in a 1981mm gap! ? Get sketching then, to know where you're going. Something like this:

 

 

You want 3mm ideally at the top. At the bottom, how much it clears the carpet by is up to you. Sounds like you'll have to cut down a door height wise. Be aware that on cheapo doors there is just a thin strip of softwood around the edge that limits how much you can trim by. For example this circa £20 Wickes door. 

 

 

Cut too much off and you'll be left with a void filled with corrugated cardboard. You can tbh just cut a bit of softwood to fit in there and just glue it in. 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff ok thanks for that. But I'm waaay off thinking of the door, aren't I? I mean Ive got to fit the frame 1st which will take me 2 weeks.

 

I dont know if I'm buying a 'frame kit' as I see all bits in a packet.. & just cutting a chunk off the btm ? (looking briiefly at one of these kits I see the top bit interlocks with two upright sides.. so my train of thought was you cut off the btm to make it fit: Ive no idea if this is the right approach).

 

Or bc I don't have a regular H opening, does this mean I'm forced to make all the frame bits myself-? is that what your sketch is about? does my opening W alone mean I can or can't go for a kit-? all these pg1 basics Ive yet to sort out answers to. Your info above is like 3 steps on! (remember it takes me 10x as long as anyone on here, bc its all new to me, every little thing).

 

I do understand the door edge trim/ as I hate the doors on offer "solid wood" bllx etc.. I was thinking of making one: t&g whatnots & two diagonal brace thingies on the back & a straight one across middle & black big hinge doo-da's: actually my cttg doors here upstairs like so, look homemade, not too tricky (I hope) & not bad/ my effort would blend in at least! then I can trim the hell out of the b'stard.