Extension- Last Stuff.

[zoothorn]

17 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Great fir that “rustic “ look and substantial. If it’s you're workshop you could have some shelves and a tool hanging wall.

 

Odd I can't see daiking's suggestion/ missed this. Good idea/ would look good.. but too thick for my jigsaw I think (this shelf back joins to old wall = wiggly in/ out, contour copy/ guide trick to match the wall needed). I'm leaning twds 1" mdf,  max I could handle tbh.

 

Is this a viable option/ or look funny, it not being a window sill-?

[Onoff]

13 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Odd I can't see daiking's suggestion/ missed this. Good idea/ would look good.. but too thick for my jigsaw I think (this shelf back joins to old wall = wiggly in/ out, contour copy/ guide trick to match the wall needed). I'm leaning twds 1" mdf,  max I could handle tbh.

 

Is this a viable option/ or look funny, it not being a window sill-?

 

Put the top shelf high enough and you wouldn't see the wiggly wall. 

 

How about something like this:

 

 

You could cut simple housing joints with your router, both sides of the board (rather than the one side shown below) and the whole lot just slots together. Glue in the joints, weight on top whilst it sets. You could back with the cheapest 8"x4" hardboard/ply sheet.

 

 

What have you got kicking around in terms of timber?

Edited September 29, 2020 by Onoff

[zoothorn]

@Onoff nice idea cheers.. I really just need tho one shelf here, & Id like to keep the old 'character' wall visible (once renovated/ very last job/ do over time once signed off etc). Id like to make a bookshelf for my upper room, in time too, so will use for reference tho. 

 

So Ive plumped for 244mm window board for this ledge.. a 3.66m full length will be fine/ cover almost all (will end a bit short, but hidden if under worktop opposite side of room to to door). 244mm ideal D for my cabinets to sit on too. Think it will look ok? or weird?

 

I see on my Soudal pB adhesive (most of a can left) it can be used for general board wood etc to stick to walls. Think I could use to fix this mdf to the mortar ledge top-? even use for my 2x window sills too.

 

Also thinking as I'll have enough left (2x 3.66, window boards delivered tmrw) to use it for my french doors step area: at the mo its a too-short/ funny sort of 3/4 of a step depth, & unfinished foil tape onto cls + ply top. 244mm mdf ontop = a better step depth.

 

thx zoot

[Ferdinand]

On your last post have you considered trimming the sides of the end with a bit of skirting a bit of windowboard? You could have the bullnose at the front or top, and it would neatly flll your 2 inches of extra length, and finish it off visually. If you don't want to do that you could use a couple of pieces of 1 x 1 with quadrant or another trim on top.

 

It's very Ferdinand to have a thing to fill that is 2 inches longer than the standard timber size ?. 

[zoothorn]

@Ferdinand hi there. Sorry but I can't quite follow your suggestion/ to what exactly you're referring to in the 1st sentence. I am quite thick.

 

Ive now got 2x 3.66m of 244mm window board.. just arrived (maybe that negates your suggestion Ferdinand- I'm not sure).

 

I've also made my 3 steps (taken a whole week!!) just gotta fix them down. Is Soudal plasterboard adhesive suitable to fix 12mm ply [and/ or mdf] to concrete? can't see it a heap different to pB > concrete (& it does say on can 'various wood to walls' is mdf "wood"?). Cant think how else to fix it. This being my top step.

 

Pics later. ipad! woohoo!

Edited October 2, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

@joe90 reporting back, done me steps. Really do need skirting now as there are gaps galore at sides, knock thru walls uneven etc. The pB to wall glue is excellent for general wood to wall btw.

 

quite pleased, but by god took a whole week..

 

 

 

[joe90]

That’s really good mate, well done, you must be pleased?. Now, skirting, below is my take on what you need, you will need to plan it carefully but this will look great. Below is a (bad) sketch of what I would do, might be good to try it out with hardboard or something first to get the angles correct but after doing the steps I know you can do it.

[Big Jimbo]

2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

@joe90 reporting back, done me steps. Really do need skirting now as there are gaps galore at sides, knock thru walls uneven etc. The pB to wall glue is excellent for general wood to wall btw.

 

quite pleased, but by god took a whole week..

 

 

 

Looking good Zoot the Hoot

[Ferdinand]

On 02/10/2020 at 14:50, zoothorn said:

@Ferdinand hi there. Sorry but I can't quite follow your suggestion/ to what exactly you're referring to in the 1st sentence. I am quite thick.

 

Ive now got 2x 3.66m of 244mm window board.. just arrived (maybe that negates your suggestion Ferdinand- I'm not sure).

 

I've also made my 3 steps (taken a whole week!!) just gotta fix them down. Is Soudal plasterboard adhesive suitable to fix 12mm ply [and/ or mdf] to concrete? can't see it a heap different to pB > concrete (& it does say on can 'various wood to walls' is mdf "wood"?). Cant think how else to fix it. This being my top step.

 

Pics later. ipad! woohoo!

 

What I mean is that if your space where you want your shelf to go is a bit longer than the shelf you have to put on it, you can put a "side" on it with skirting if one end is up against a wall, which will help cover the gap.

 

Just like you are putting skirtings on the "side" of the steps you have just made.

 

Only works if the end of your shelf is running into a corner.

[zoothorn]

@joe90 very grateful for that sketch joe- understood. Quite a tricky job then! should be ok.

 

If the door frame's to go on (door @ the carpet/ top step ply meet) & the frame side pse 'strips' & trim xyz to add above the 1st ~4" of the new ply.. shouldn't this be done 1st, the skirting to fit to it afterwards? IE not much point whacking this skirt on next is it..

 

I'm preparing my ape brain for the frame & door job next.. forgot about this!

 

 

Edited October 4, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

@Ferdinand I think I get the gist cheers. I will have about 10" gap tho to wall from end of my 3.66m w'board, so I think Im too far away to do your idea? maybe put something in gap to approximate it, & fish an offcut out a skip s'time to finish. It is a workshop, so perfect isn't needed.. but be good to do a tidy job tho.

[joe90]

15 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

shouldn't this be done 1st,

Yes, door frame etc first.

[Roundtuit]

Nice work!  I think I'd also put a door lining (can just be a bit of skirting with the moulding cut off) in at the bottom and put architrave on in the lower room, so you'll have something to run the skirting up to and can terminate it neatly.  Something like this:

[zoothorn]

@Roundtuit hey that's pretty groovy! I think that's an easier method of skirting on the top & middle steps/ less material & effort than joe90's idea (tho I do like his slope). But the door lining you put in the wrong spot (door @ the junction of adjacent room carpet & my top step ply).

 

I'm a bit loathed to put an architrave vertical edge here too: I spent so damn long fashioning these wall corners, & they do look smart as is.

 

So I'd like to follow your idea along top step > down > across on the 2nd step. And also your skirt around the wide 3rd step (maybe too). But I need to somehow meet these two skirts -without- a vertical architrave between. Also how can I cut my existing wall skirt @ 45* in situ, if I do the skirt around wide 3rd step too. Hmm..

 

thanks alot for that- fab resource to do that (assuming you've not nipped in & grafitti'd my upstairs- yet to look

[Roundtuit]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

@Roundtuit hey that's pretty groovy! I think that's an easier method of skirting on the top & middle steps/ less material & effort than joe90's idea (tho I do like his slope). But the door lining you put in the wrong spot (door @ the junction of adjacent room carpet & my top step ply).

 

I'm a bit loathed to put an architrave vertical edge here too: I spent so damn long fashioning these wall corners, & they do look smart as is.

 

So I'd like to follow your idea along top step > down > across on the 2nd step. And also your skirt around the wide 3rd step (maybe too). But I need to somehow meet these two skirts -without- a vertical architrave between. Also how can I cut my existing wall skirt @ 45* in situ, if I do the skirt around wide 3rd step too. Hmm..

 

thanks alot for that- fab resource to do that (assuming you've not nipped in & grafitti'd my upstairs- yet to look

 

Well... it's raining again here, so can only work on other people's jobs!  I drew on a door lining top and bottom; the one labelled 'door lining' wasn't intended for your door, just something to run the skirting to, otherwise you have an awkward junction where the skirting on the bottom step needs to meet up with the skirting from the middle step.  Or... you could just not bother with skirting and carpet up to the edge.  It's only there to protect the bottom of the plaster, so if you're careful when vacuuming you'll be fine!

 

[zoothorn]

@Roundtuit damn, wish I'd known of the architrave vertical idea before the huge faff of cornering the pB edges here. Anyway I'm loathed to cover them now you see/ kinda proud of them. Would there be anything I could run up at this junction as a compromise, just up to the top of the skirting instead?

[Roundtuit]

5 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 Would there be anything I could run up at this junction as a compromise, just up to the top of the skirting instead?

The world's your oyster!  Plain timber finishing just above the middle step skirting, or get creative, stick a decorative moulding on it (a bullseye maybe).  Just needs to look neat ?

[zoothorn]

Another question/ different tack.

 

Back to my workshop below this ^ room; I was thinking of dividing it with a simplest partition wall & door (once signed off). So like 2/5ths the room area as you enter, 3/5ths the onward room (routers etc). Its sole function is to keep power tool dust out of the smaller 'clean' 1st room.

 

What springs to mind now, & if it work's dependent on the vac (maybe like a festool portable, or Clarke 2hp job.. IE how effective & strong it is at eliminating/ minimising dust is key).. is more of a 'curtain' partition instead, surely far simpler to make. Pull it back > go in & pull behind etc. But Ive no idea if feasable to build something like so. Or if it would be any less faff to build.

 

If it was -clear- then the added benefit of getting window light to this end (nothing if a solid wall for eg). One smallish window only in this room as a whole, its next to main entry door.

 

It does mean I keep the room 'whole'.. I'm slightly concerned building a timber/ pB wall if I'll sort of ruin the room by cramping it all. If a vac is super good I could pull back partition when not in there, opening the room back up.

 

Any ideas?

[zoothorn]

Roof ladder Q.

 

Just a side question (Im too embarrassed to do a new thread on it).. I've just put roof hooks on end of my Lyte 2-stage ladder, hoiked it up & flipped it over into perfect position on my 45* kitchen roof (1 story kitchen): job is to remove old satellite dish & throw it into my n'bors gdn.

 

I have a few probs: 1st is the 2nd lower stage, protruding a few ft over the gutter (placcy gutter removed, as presumably ladder weight + me on would put too much pressure on it) looks like it'll also put pressure on last protruding roof slate (adjacent to gutter). The next prob is getting up onto it.. just another ladder up against wall? or interlock it (somehow) with the 45* angled ladder sitting on the roof?

 

The main prob tho, is I can't figure out how to actually use the lower stage section, in situ on the roof, without it sliding out from the top stage! IE without ground below, the two sections do not lock together via the two alu hooks on the lower end of the thinner top section L & R.

 

thx zoot

[joe90]

7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

The main prob tho, is I can't figure out how to actually use the lower stage section, in situ on the roof, without it sliding out from the top stage! IE without ground below, the two sections do not lock together via the two alu hooks on the lower end of the thinner top section L & R.

yes this is a problem converting ladders to roof ladders, I got round it by using a u clamp and clamping two rungs together to stop the lower section sliding out. You could always just lash with rope tightly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Square-U-Bolts-With-Back-Plates-U-Bolt-For-Boat-And-Live-Stock-Trailers/173312961705?hash=item285a41eca9:g:7sAAAOSwcita9XG5

[ProDave]

Buy a proper roof ladder.

 

And don't chuck you old dish in the neighbours garden.

[zoothorn]

9 hours ago, ProDave said:

Buy a proper roof ladder.

 

And don't chuck you old dish in the neighbours garden.

 

 

Yes but how much, just 30min job to undo me dish? no if hooks designed to add to a ladder, & @ £13 clearance in jewsons. .they stay on!

 

What I was wondering if I'm only ever meant to use the top stage, even being 4' short of the gutter, then to use lower one against wall to get up.. but then s'how bridge the gap between is the prob I'm left with of course.

[zoothorn]

9 hours ago, joe90 said:

yes this is a problem converting ladders to roof ladders, I got round it by using a u clamp and clamping two rungs together to stop the lower section sliding out. You could always just lash with rope tightly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Square-U-Bolts-With-Back-Plates-U-Bolt-For-Boat-And-Live-Stock-Trailers/173312961705?hash=item285a41eca9:g:7sAAAOSwcita9XG5

 

Hi joe.. ah ok that confirms I'm not being a muppet & missing the bleedin obvious/ the lower bit will indeed slide out.

 

Ok I do have rope/ need to do job today b4 rain, so if you say lashing is ok.. will have to do this.

 

Should I be removing the placcy gutter tho? I assume so if lower end of ladder has to stick out over a bit & it squashes it down 2" if I leave it up. Then to get up onto it: do I borrow another ladder, rest & 'interlocking' it against the end of the lashed section on roof, IE where it protrudes over edge of tiles 1 ft. Hmm..

 

If I rest borrowed ladder against gutter still up, it goes squashed, but of course does protect the roof tiles from me resting ladder against them. If I undo gutter the roof ladder now doesn't squash the gutter down, but I gotta get onto it, using the 2nd upright ladder.

[Russell griffiths]

On 06/10/2020 at 20:52, zoothorn said:

Another question/ different tack.

 

Back to my workshop below this ^ room; I was thinking of dividing it with a simplest partition wall & door (once signed off). So like 2/5ths the room area as you enter, 3/5ths the onward room (routers etc). Its sole function is to keep power tool dust out of the smaller 'clean' 1st room.

 

What springs to mind now, & if it work's dependent on the vac (maybe like a festool portable, or Clarke 2hp job.. IE how effective & strong it is at eliminating/ minimising dust is key).. is more of a 'curtain' partition instead, surely far simpler to make. Pull it back > go in & pull behind etc. But Ive no idea if feasable to build something like so. Or if it would be any less faff to build.

 

If it was -clear- then the added benefit of getting window light to this end (nothing if a solid wall for eg). One smallish window only in this room as a whole, its next to main entry door.

 

It does mean I keep the room 'whole'.. I'm slightly concerned building a timber/ pB wall if I'll sort of ruin the room by cramping it all. If a vac is super good I could pull back partition when not in there, opening the room back up.

 

Any ideas?

You can buy a plastic wall that has a zip in door in it, they fix up temporarily on extending poles, but you could fix it to a batten on the ceiling. 

Look up temporarily dust protection. 

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

You can buy a plastic wall that has a zip in door in it, they fix up temporarily on extending poles, but you could fix it to a batten on the ceiling. 

Look up temporarily dust protection. 

 

Very interesting.. thanks Russell. Ive been mulling clear shower curtains.

 

If one of those zip door ones was ideally clear.. it would fit the bill spot on.