Jenki

Ours just under 90sqm was £11k for reference

D4 PVA will work, but I'd go for 30 min polyurethane. If it foams out of the joint let it cure and trim with a chisel, don't be tempted to smear it when wet.

Is the whole 6m length exposed? With glulam and the visible horizontal joints any decent joiner /competent diyer will sort that no problem even with shorter lengths of timber the joints should become invisible.

Don't let them publish the figures until you are happy with the results. Maybe get a preliminary test done to assist your build..if it hits the required numbers ask them to formalise it.. otherwise do some rework. The worst case for you would be less than 3, ( this should be easy to resolve, by opening a window handle after the tester has checked it's closed😉)

With it being cladded and thus unseen, I'd want to know it will outlive me. I'm 52 and most of my cost based decisions were based on " do I want to be repairing that at 75?" Or "I'll be long gone, or won't care in 30 years, so that will be fine"

Screen shot image not showing for me. But there are a lot of companies that offer bespoke cutting of doors / panels. They cut and then edge the door/ panel. I made a large fish tank enclosure this way just gave them a cut list, picked the board I wanted and the edge trim required. It wasn't much more expensive than buying the board. And the finish and edging is excellent. Example company

I'd get it galvanized. Possibly powder coated as well.

as @JohnMo says, with this volume you could probably bypass the buffer altogether. my UFH volume was under required minimum so as volumizer was required. I got a great deal on the World heat cylinder so went the buffer route with some re-piping.

i added a second pump on the return as I was worried about the flow, but I've never wired it in. IMHO the extra pump on the manifold and buffer used as a buffer could create short cycling, and its an unnecessary complication. i wanted my set up as simple as possible. no zones etc. just heat the slab .

I wasn't sure, it was my first and only install, so fumbled my way around. The Samsung stat didn't have a wireless option and I wanted to be able to move it around to get the best balance, its only a small house. I used the attached manual to get me through. the Samsung ones are so big I lost my way. The controller I used is a PNI CT60 Samsung-Gen-6-Heat-Pump-Installation-Manual.pdf

just updated my post see above

I've got this setup worldheat cylinder and buffer with gen6. my manifold for UFH does not have a pump, its just controlled with a 2 port valve with a separate 2 port for the DHW. I re plumbed the buffer to act as a volumiser - i,e. From Heat pump > flow UFH > RETURN UFH > TOP Buffer > Bottom Buffer > Heat pump return. I got rid of the 3 port, as you still need a 2 port to satisfy G3 EDIT: I use a separate room stat (Cheap wireless remote with timer) to call for heat no zones - heat over night my programmer is set for 18.5deg through the day and 19.5 at night this basically means it only call for heat at night - and then only in the winter months (the benefits of good insulation and Air tightness)

I'd suggest the extreme dry spell has shrunk the less well compacted backfill. Nothing to worry about. Unless brickwork etc starts to crack that is.

It's straightforward to move, if I knew, I would have created a pad at the same time I back filled with concrete, it would have been an hour or so works at the time. Plan for it and I would 100% recommend. No issue in 3 years so far.

I'm happy with my Tricel, no other comparisons though. However the only thing I would (will) when I get around to it, change is the compressor on the lid. We're rural and at night it can be audibly intrusive. 😔. It will be moved to a concrete pad with zero resonance.

💯

Nothing really, may be higher sides so the overall height was increased. The original designs are taller and possibly use 7m sheets( very difficult to source up here). But it's not budgged with over 7 or 8 big storms may well extend it in the years to come.once the rest of the projects are out of the way.

Yes to the A2A HP(This was our route) , hot water for showers and sinks will be more affordable with gas.

A side note on the transport, since the restrictions on Red diesel and limited to agricultural use only a couple of companies up here in the far North used to move statics with large tractors and low-loaders, all legitimate, but this cant happen now as they would have to use white diesel so they have stopped moving them. I expect this is the same in all rural spots.

Yes all external walls solid and warm to touch😀. I don't have any wall cabinets in the kitchen so didn't need to. However the steel strips are every 150mm so not too difficult TO locate and the fix directly to them. The TV is fixed to these steel strips, as I used metal back boxes screwed to these strips there is a reference on all walls for a vertical strip, so them just measure across. The polysteel blocks only came in one width (not sure if they are changing with tightening of U values), so it was essential to add external insulation fixed in the same way, with baypole screws and battens, and I added the internal PIR to boosts this and eliminate the hollow wall feel. For a truly DIY build, I found the process, with meticulous planning, a breeze to carry out, and airtightness is easier to achieve with cheep materials.

The polysteel Blocks I used have a 30mm steel web every 150mm, so yes got knife to gouge the blocks for conduit. I added. Layer of 25mm PIR so surface mounted 25mm electrical boxes and these were screwed to the steel webs with lightweight steel wafer head screws. Plasterboard was secured with longer drywall screws for metal studs.

I don't think structurally they would be suitable, during install, you partially fill with water and then backfill, my instructions were very clear, fill say 300mm with water then backfill to that level, and repeat, DO not fill the tank with water without following the instructions.

Firstly, I've read and learned lots from your posts, especially the spreadsheet for heat loss so thank you👍. Insurance claim and let them deal with the clean up and disposal

As said above it's got to be down to budget. I did get some prices for triple glazed timber /Ali however the quote was around 1/3 of our build cost (including the triple glazed UPVC we went for). My view was UPVC hinges, beads etc are easily changeable if needed. I do wish I'd selected a different front door, I went for a slam lock composite door, this was a big mistake with the high winds we get. But you live and learn.

Update: I connected the PC via a Lan cable to the LAN port on the bridge, changed the IP address to static 192.168.188.200. Then logged into the host on 192.168.188.253, this worked and I could login, so followed a YouTube video to reset them and link via a mac address. The issue I had is that you can switch between Host and Client via a micro switch. on one CPE I could log into either the Host 192.168.188.253 or the Client 192.168.188.100, but the other unit was struggling either way, I changed POE adaptors and cables but no help resetting the other CPE, I then connected to the working one logged on to the admin page, but before I logged in, I switched the cable and it tricked it? it allowed me to log in, so reset by following the video linked & paired the 2 units. - I hate this type of stuff..........