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Ferdinand

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Everything posted by Ferdinand

  1. Text being edited usually reappears when you reopen the thread when logged in. For me, anyway. F
  2. Somewhere else, apparently :-). Out of my backside or something I had in a tab from elsewhere. Scrub that paragraph.
  3. You could put a layer of pavers on top the exact size of the shed, or a post base, then attach boxing in boards round the bottom.
  4. I sometimes design things to allow replacement every 6-8 years, which is how long driven 3-4 inch posts last for me, which is OK when the 1.5m 90mm tantalised posts only cost £2.10 or so each (from an Agricultural Merchant in Matlock called Wardmans) and can be replaced and tied in with green screws and the old one pulled out or sawn off in 5 minutes. They always have a whole row of secondhand 4x4s on site too. But back to Postsaver .. the company seem to have an excellent policy of undercutting everybody else reselling their products, but the £7 delivery charge sticks in the throat a bit, so the best option seems to be to order just over £50 from the company website to qualify for free delivery. That is about 7 extra Postsavers, or a 30% lollipop on the extra if the order is raised from £30 for their starter pack to £50. Ferdinand
  5. Can you not leverage that droop properly level with an Acrow until you pour it?
  6. Is there any reason you cannot add PVA to normal plaster when mixing? Have sometimes done it with glue with eg cement. F
  7. St Julian of Norwich might be predisposed to be peaceable.
  8. @recoveringacademic The Concrete Society have a recommended procedure in a £10 factsheet. http://www.concrete.org.uk/fingertips-nuggets.asp?cmd=display&id=778 For an *indication* I think it is roughly: Drill a hole 40% of the way through, put an RH sensor in it, and seal it (plastic cap), wait for it to stabilise (48-72 hours?), then take a reading. For BH-ers it is probably something to install as we do with heat sensors. For an even cruder indicator tape a square of plastic sheet to the concrete floor and see if it is wet underneath after 24 hours => still drying out. Repeated tests give an indication of moisture which is coming out, and perhaps when it slowing down. As @IanR points out, these are not seen as definitive, however. Ferdinand
  9. Good job it is not being built out of straw or sticks , and they haven't reintroduced wolves yet. I really look forward to seeing how it develops. I am sure it will be great. F
  10. I am looking for a source for Postsaver sleeves and / or roll. Can anyone recommend? It is a small quantity to try the system - say 20 or so or a single roll of their cut-yourself version. Cheers Ferdinand
  11. Or you could have a stove top toaster. Tennis racket toast if it as Aga or Ceramic. Is there an induction version of a tennis racket toaster? Or if aallly dedicated to a smooth worktop you could have Dalek Toast if it is a gas hob. Like camping. Found while briefly researching toast: Jamie Oliver Guardian Footnote: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/jan/09/how-to-make-toast-the-jamie-oliver-way
  12. I think the way to manage crumbs may be to continue the worktop into the roller-shutter cupboard, either my using an insert if it faces forward (offcut), or orientating the cupboard sideways at the end of the worktop. Ferdinand
  13. One technique is to turn a design based argument into a use or practicality based argument. "I prefer wooden windows" "Will you paint them every 6 years?"
  14. Welcome back. Full marks for supplying all the information . But that may take *some* digesting to comment sensibly. Can I make 2 3 4 comments / suggestions having just dipped in (very busy for the next 2-3 weeks). 1 - Like the way you are using an awkward N/S orientation. 2 - I might want to move that shed and deck in a little from the bottom boundary (2-3 feet), so you can get behind to maintain them and have somewhere to store things you don't want seen. We all need an untidy corner. 3 - Is it worth considering moving the rear garage door to the back wall so you have an absolutely straight path through when required? This becomes a dead letter if you have a suitable path down the side or alternative, I would want it to let me get a sufficiently large minidigger down the side for any projects I may do in future - how would you get ten bulk bags of sand to the back if needed in future? I would work on a metre wide or a little more (1.5 tonne digger = 980mm usually). 4 - I would also say do the floor of the garage such that you can convert it later to an office or grannexe if required. Insulation to domestic standards, capped off water in the corner, perhaps capped off gas, route in, maybe ufh if you are doing it, even enough extra foundations so it will support a second storey. And a question: I see your architect refers to a "covered way" in the Title of the Proposed Development: "Proposal: Erection of a single storey side extension and covered way. Erection of a single storey rear extension following the demolition of the existing conservatory." Can you tell me which bit is the "covered way", and what your architect knows about them? There seems to be no definition in Planning Law, and we are trying to find out what one is in this other thread: A Covered Way is exempt from Building Regs and potentially Planning, so it could be a useful concept to use for making small additions less expensive wrt paperwork. Cheers Ferdinand
  15. Can you concrete galvanised scaffold poles into the ground and go off those? If concerned about the thing moving I might incorporate something adjustable that can be relevelled without major trouble. Can I put another word in for Wallbarn Adjustable Support Pads even on one slab each... which can be obtained in varieties up to 400mm tall, or as heavy duty. http://www.wallbarn.com/products/roof-and-terrace-finishes/asp-adjustable-support-pads/ The normal ones ones cost a fiver and support just under half a tonne each. Wish I had them as I am going to have to jack my shed up this year because my fence post base has moved.
  16. @Onoff @TheMitchells This was a hotel room in London at the Tower Bridge Doubletree.
  17. Aside. Given the measures you have taken to increase light, have you considered a window in the gable wall? Tall and thin or wide and flat might work well if translucent. Or put a door sized mirror at the bottom of the stairs eventually.
  18. Ask somebody else's wife how she deals with such and act accordingly. Or try this.
  19. I have just received my reply from the Royal Town Planning Institute on the definition of "Covered Way" and "Covered Yard"; they think there isn't one. That will be non-binding however and just opinion, so don't punt 10k on the basis of it without knowing you are responsible. Which is very interesting indeed. If accurate, that looks as if you can prove it isn't anything else (eg opaque roof so not a conservatory, no door to inside so not a porch), the LPA cannot show that it *isn't* a Covered Yard or Covered Way, which means that if you are within the list of general rules for Permitted Development, you don't need Building Regs OR Planning Permission for building a very wide range of potentially quite useful structures and vexatious enforcement would be tricky. Suspect "It is an Extension" may be the fly in the ointment, in that I am not sure how to show that something is *not* an extension. An "Extension" (unlike a Covered Way/Yard which come under the Class VII Exemption) is not automatically exempt from Building Regulations. However, some things may best be termed Extensions built under PD. Ferdinand
  20. If you want to look posher than vinyl, in case Hyacinth Bucket or Lady Nugee stay , then vinyl tiles are a more-perceived-upmarket option. OTOH Roll Vinyl is effective nearly-tanking if in one piece and siliconed round the edge if somebody washes their souvenir rocks in your whb and it leaks. F
  21. I refer you to the GPDO song, @PeterW. I may be confident enough to try mine, as it goes from the front to the back down the side of the dwelling and I do have a couple of plan Bs available if I get it wrong, but I have not read a lot of cases to understand how this really works. I would like to see some professional advice and a couple of Legal Cases, ideally.
  22. (Aside and diversion) I love Planning Law. Apparently if your small detached building under 30sqm is a robust shed Air Raid Shelter it can contain sleeping accommodation. https://www.lincoln.gov.uk/living-in-lincoln/planning-and-building/building-control/building-control-advice-and-guidance/exempt-buildings-and-structures/ "No planning officer, it is not a shed from B&Q it is in case the Russians Bomb is and that gentleman is sleeping in it". Add: Hmm. Appears to be a Building Regs exemption, not Planning.
  23. Under English Law in my opinion you should be able to do a 'Covered Yard' up to 30sqm without a need for either PP or Building Regs approval, subject to the other categories of restriction (height, distance from boundary etc). A covered yard may need PP if it extends beyong the side of the house. http://www.tameside.gov.uk/Planning/Planning-and-Building-Control-Frequently-Asked-Que#_constructacoveredyard_ Attention needs paying to Electrical Installations and Building Regs etc. However, in my case there is an external double IP66 socket there already, which I assume can stay. By my reading above a Covered Yard could be enclosed. To be a Covered Way it would need imo the capability of someone going somewhere through it. TO ME, the definition of Car Port sounds like a bastardisation of the older definition of Covered Yard or Covered Way. But your back door couldn't go into it, or it becomes a Porch and you would need Planning if over 3sqm. So you need to walk at least two feet sideways off the path through the rain wearing a hat to keep dry. That is General Advice only. I have put in a request to find the formal definition of these in Planning Law. Ferdinand
  24. So I think what I am heading towards is building the fence first, behind which I will construct Covered Way, which at some point may turn into a porch. That means that I can use plastisol corrugated rather than translucent corrugated, which will mean that it will be more private and in keeping with the house, and I can meet any "substantially non flammable materials" requirement for being with 2m of the neighbours brick wall. I have not got the foggiest idea :-). But I think that a "porch" engages planning permission if it is more than 3sqm if attached to *any* door, not just one at the front. Or that is the view of my Planning Dept, though they were a little reluctant to have that conversation without a specific property being identified. Nor have I worked out whether there are any volume based restrictions. F
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