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Ferdinand

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Everything posted by Ferdinand

  1. Ferdinand
    So not one to recommend to the person repainting their kitchen who has the dog !
  2. Ferdinand
    Thanks ... Ipe was the one.
  3. Ferdinand
    The most durable cladding will perhaps be woods used by coastal defence engineers. Or teak or iroko, or the one that @PeterStarck has on his balcony. Or if you are feeling very rich and resolute, the sapwood of Greenheart :-), which last a century in Groynes. Or I always fancied Coconut Palm.
  4. Ferdinand
    I have spotted one firm offering a mini mix lorry and a towable pump. Which seems to be a good idea to reduce costs. PUmp was £350 extra including operator. https://www.coppard.co.uk/pages/concrete-services/concreting-services.php But this is not an area where I have experience.
  5. Ferdinand
    Cheers @JSHarris. Will have a look if I have a chance.
  6. Ferdinand
    The prices seem a little OTT. A single 600x900 panel to protect a single 90cm door and frame things to attach it to, plus the seal, comes to between £250 and £400. Given that they are basically plastic or steel, a couple of beads, a seal and a few screws, I would be wanting to pay about £75 max, though £50 feels nearer the mark to me. Have I missed something, or is this a business opportunity waiting for an entrepreneur? I can see big claims if it failed, but that should be insurance. Ultra-niche market and made by hand?
  7. Ferdinand
    Having discovered no reference to a Three Little Pigs cocktail, it has to be a classic Harvey Wallbanger. (And I am slightly regretting my Big Bad Wolf quip on the other thread. ) Serious points: It sounds like a make haste after a pause situation, because is this not actually the good weather season? YOu do not perhaps want to be redoing this in October, for example. Can you use the blocks in the garden somewhere? Eg a raised sitting area or artificial badger set or something? Ferdinand
  8. Ferdinand
    I was just pointing out a downside. I am not clear what I would do except that in a new build resilience steps such as tiles floors, high up electrics and one way doors in the drains are obvious steps at relatively little extra cost. i am a little familiar with towpath houses in Strand on the Green, in Kew. There they mainly have an up and down step and a Perspex flood board on top. Of course, if you have a system that requires YOU to take action, and is not very resilient, you ( and your house) are in a mess if it floods while you are not there. You can engage good neighbours and flood monitoring services etc, but at some point the system may hit its limit - neighbour may be rescuing granny or tibbles, for example. So .. a judgement call.
  9. Ferdinand
    That would mean that people who came down for a nose and found you were away could then work in peace?
  10. Ferdinand
    I can't say very much from here, except that we have all had setbacks, and usually probably keep quiet. Brief pause and a walk without a cocktail, then up and at 'em. F
  11. Ferdinand
    I was addressing the point about protecting the shed floor from blown rain and water running in etc. Via the top surface of the concrete slab. Raising it 2 inches with slabs or 4 inches with fence posts and adding a 'skirt' would achieve that simply. F
  12. Ferdinand
    Text being edited usually reappears when you reopen the thread when logged in. For me, anyway. F
  13. Ferdinand
    Somewhere else, apparently :-). Out of my backside or something I had in a tab from elsewhere. Scrub that paragraph.
  14. Ferdinand
    You could put a layer of pavers on top the exact size of the shed, or a post base, then attach boxing in boards round the bottom.
  15. Ferdinand
    I sometimes design things to allow replacement every 6-8 years, which is how long driven 3-4 inch posts last for me, which is OK when the 1.5m 90mm tantalised posts only cost £2.10 or so each (from an Agricultural Merchant in Matlock called Wardmans) and can be replaced and tied in with green screws and the old one pulled out or sawn off in 5 minutes. They always have a whole row of secondhand 4x4s on site too. But back to Postsaver .. the company seem to have an excellent policy of undercutting everybody else reselling their products, but the £7 delivery charge sticks in the throat a bit, so the best option seems to be to order just over £50 from the company website to qualify for free delivery. That is about 7 extra Postsavers, or a 30% lollipop on the extra if the order is raised from £30 for their starter pack to £50. Ferdinand
  16. Ferdinand
    Can you not leverage that droop properly level with an Acrow until you pour it?
  17. Ferdinand
    Is there any reason you cannot add PVA to normal plaster when mixing? Have sometimes done it with glue with eg cement. F
  18. Ferdinand
    St Julian of Norwich might be predisposed to be peaceable.
  19. Ferdinand
    @recoveringacademic The Concrete Society have a recommended procedure in a £10 factsheet. http://www.concrete.org.uk/fingertips-nuggets.asp?cmd=display&id=778 For an *indication* I think it is roughly: Drill a hole 40% of the way through, put an RH sensor in it, and seal it (plastic cap), wait for it to stabilise (48-72 hours?), then take a reading. For BH-ers it is probably something to install as we do with heat sensors. For an even cruder indicator tape a square of plastic sheet to the concrete floor and see if it is wet underneath after 24 hours => still drying out. Repeated tests give an indication of moisture which is coming out, and perhaps when it slowing down. As @IanR points out, these are not seen as definitive, however. Ferdinand
  20. Ferdinand
    Good job it is not being built out of straw or sticks , and they haven't reintroduced wolves yet. I really look forward to seeing how it develops. I am sure it will be great. F
  21. Ferdinand
    I am looking for a source for Postsaver sleeves and / or roll. Can anyone recommend? It is a small quantity to try the system - say 20 or so or a single roll of their cut-yourself version. Cheers Ferdinand
  22. Ferdinand
    Or you could have a stove top toaster. Tennis racket toast if it as Aga or Ceramic. Is there an induction version of a tennis racket toaster? Or if aallly dedicated to a smooth worktop you could have Dalek Toast if it is a gas hob. Like camping. Found while briefly researching toast: Jamie Oliver Guardian Footnote: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/jan/09/how-to-make-toast-the-jamie-oliver-way
  23. Ferdinand
    I think the way to manage crumbs may be to continue the worktop into the roller-shutter cupboard, either my using an insert if it faces forward (offcut), or orientating the cupboard sideways at the end of the worktop. Ferdinand
  24. Ferdinand
    One technique is to turn a design based argument into a use or practicality based argument. "I prefer wooden windows" "Will you paint them every 6 years?"
  25. Ferdinand
    Welcome back. Full marks for supplying all the information . But that may take *some* digesting to comment sensibly. Can I make 2 3 4 comments / suggestions having just dipped in (very busy for the next 2-3 weeks). 1 - Like the way you are using an awkward N/S orientation. 2 - I might want to move that shed and deck in a little from the bottom boundary (2-3 feet), so you can get behind to maintain them and have somewhere to store things you don't want seen. We all need an untidy corner. 3 - Is it worth considering moving the rear garage door to the back wall so you have an absolutely straight path through when required? This becomes a dead letter if you have a suitable path down the side or alternative, I would want it to let me get a sufficiently large minidigger down the side for any projects I may do in future - how would you get ten bulk bags of sand to the back if needed in future? I would work on a metre wide or a little more (1.5 tonne digger = 980mm usually). 4 - I would also say do the floor of the garage such that you can convert it later to an office or grannexe if required. Insulation to domestic standards, capped off water in the corner, perhaps capped off gas, route in, maybe ufh if you are doing it, even enough extra foundations so it will support a second storey. And a question: I see your architect refers to a "covered way" in the Title of the Proposed Development: "Proposal: Erection of a single storey side extension and covered way. Erection of a single storey rear extension following the demolition of the existing conservatory." Can you tell me which bit is the "covered way", and what your architect knows about them? There seems to be no definition in Planning Law, and we are trying to find out what one is in this other thread: A Covered Way is exempt from Building Regs and potentially Planning, so it could be a useful concept to use for making small additions less expensive wrt paperwork. Cheers Ferdinand
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