Ferdinand

You should also ask the seller for an informal water supply, too - for obvious reasons, and perhaps electric. A water sub meter is cheap. Not sure about electric. Ferdinand

Thanks - will go for those.

Cheers.

I am honestly not exactly sure. YOu need to allow for the potential costs in your offer should you choose to accept this mission (!). And that means you need to have some idea of what you think the costs of carrying this out should be. You could try asking or paying for an estimate from groundworks engineers, or looking for similar plots in your LPA (prob via reading lots of decision notices for Conditions) and asking the applicants. Walking up to self-builders on their sites may be fruitful if you have the front and some specific knowledge about the site to get past the protective barriers, but there are some accounts of resentment at 'nosey parkers' on BH. The positive side may be that the report will scare everybody else off, though third party fools may rush in. You cannot account for them. It is what it is worth to YOU. It is also better to have the report than not. It is also in your vendor's favour that he has actually given you the report. Do not be bound by any idea that you need to make an offer within a felt-fair range of the asking price; that may be your internal self-conditioning speaking. You also have the advantage that he has sunk money into the plot already and is on a ticking clock of 3 years if he has PP. My approach would perhaps be to get an idea of the cost and all the background info I could in the time, then widen my contingency and make what I think is a reasonable offer. But costing piles before you dig holes is probably another black art. Then you need to deal with the difference between your wrong estimate and what is actually needed once yo have bought it . Or you can treat it as a lesson and do the dating 'date 10 then make a choice with the next one who is better than those 10" thing. Where's that graphic? Ah yes: @recoveringacademic has some good advice in his blog posts. Ferdinand

BUmping this thread, I need a pair of safety shoes or boots to visit a site .. the gym unit I was talking about the other day. I do not do much site work myself, but I need decent occasional boots / shoes. I am diabetic Tupe I and foot care is very important for me. Can anyone recommend a decent compromise? IT is probably to my advantage to try them on in a shop if possible eg are any of the ranges in the DIY sheds eg Wickes or BQ OK? I am inclined towards trainers rather than boots as I expect more comfort. In practice the budget will be what it needs to be, but I would be happier at £50 than £100+. Cheers Ferdinand

WHere does that £6000-6500 come from? Sounds high. Asked the people who installed mine a couple of years ago about their 2018 price for a 4kw system recently as a check and it was about £4500-£4800 for a MCS system, which would include the inverter etc. That is about 5-10 percent below the price they offered me for 4kw on a Bungalow in September 2015, which was £4999 for monocrystallne 250W black panels, the inverter, fitting,and an extra small consumer unit as the existing is full. Ferdinand

Thank-you for the comments so far :-). Posting here was with the aim of useful solutions and problems being pointed out. Replying to comments so far. @Onoff Sorry - is that libellous? Get a swim spa into that bathroom ! Falcon Trunking may be the one; I remembered an system alternative to someone proposing wooden boxing-in in a bathroom. We are more self-supervising than self-building on the refurbishment side, though we will be doing equipment etc. The guys who run the gym are very competent and well-qualified in training and gym things. For a bit of background, all work is being done by the appropriately qualified professionals. I am picking a pair of steel toecaps this afternoon so I will be allowed to visit. The LL is refurbishing a 55m x 18m unit which has been empty for several years (spending a 6 figure sum), and the scope of his works are not quite where we thought they were - we expected lighting and a water supply to the to-be-refitted washroom. Hence the questions above. I helped fund the startup about 3 years ago when asked, and my role is generally background and pointing out potholes in the road (eg how long planning takes for anything :-) ). We are moving from our current premises, which are about 5000 sqft - so all the special flooring, H&S, ventilation issues are familiar and being managed. The current premises have been properly inspected by the right officials etc. But the current premises (until next weekend) are also upstairs, so we have managed weight dropping, H&S etc particularly carefully for the sake of the people downstairs. Planning for change of use has been a saga, as ever. Many gyms seem to operate unlawfully in their B1 or B2 premises, where they really need D3 use-class. We have the right class, though it took months and months to go through (full sequential test etc). Accessibility has been front and centre, though exactly what accessibility is required in a gym, and for whom, is a little debatable, and what degree of adaptation etc is required. Difficult questions are very welcome. @jack Yes we have the right floor coverings, and a culture (so far) of not slamming weights around. And yes, it is eyewateringly expensive even if you cut test-and-demonstration deals. But cheep-and-cheerful involves significant compromises, so we think it is better to focus on reducing the cost rather than finding an alternative. There is quite a lot that can be done in that regard. Thank-you for the article. I will pass it on. Lighting is now looking like one area where we need to think carefully. @Nickfromwales Thanks for all that. Ferdinand

This is slightly off topic, but we are technically "self-building". I am involved in moving a (Crossfit) gym into a new unit. This is a photo of the unit pre-fit-out, and we will be having the far end in the pic when a wall has been built across. The left hand side is the front. Dimensions of our unit are 30m front to back by 18m side to side, giving a 5800 sqft rectangular space, with loos, showers, and changing rooms on the right hand side in this view. The eaves height is about 5m, and the apex height is about 9m. The facility will run potentially from 6am to 11pm six days a week plus special events on Sundays. The walls will be painted grey to a height of ~4.5m. The issue that I have got is a pair of normal self-build elephants that have appeared out of thin air at zero notice and are now standing on my foot, and I have a very few days to decide how to deal with it, and there is not very much in the budget - but what is needed will be found. Basic heating is gas and will be staying. Electrics are generally not an issue as Crossfit does not usually involve machines with power supplies. 1 - I need to replace the lights. The cable is staying in place. 2 - I need to run a water supply from the LHS where the new metered supply comes in to the changing rooms and showers. Water heating will be electric at the shower. Lighting For 1, which I think is the more straightforward, it is a case of rapidly sourcing the right LED lights for a gym lit from that height, getting them and probably paying the LLs refurbishment contractors to replace them when they take the old ones down to avoid messing about with big scaffold towers. Plus a need to think about certification if required. Can anyone advise me on light intensity, types and perhaps colour of light (warm or cool white?), and perhaps recommend a source? Water pipes etc For 2, it seems to me that I can run the water supply high or low, exposed or hidden. I need to decide: 2a - Type and size of pipe. I think I want plastic (JG Speedfit?) on a 100m reel, or perhaps 2x50m for ease of handling, so it is in one or two lengths only. 2b - High or low? Hidden or concealed? If I am running it at ground level (and therefore round at least one or two doors depending on which way we go) it will need protecting, perhaps by the type of plastic boxing in which was pointed out by I think @Onoff some time ago for bathrooms. I think that is complicated, and more expensive, but if I did it I would probably also run a pipe and conduit in tandem in the other protected space in the boxing-in product so I can get electricity anywhere later round the walls. I think I prefer to run it at perhaps 3-3.5m to go above doors and nto have things dropped on it, but not be stupidly high for ease of installation, and to leave it exposed so that any leaks or damage become immediately obvious. For wallball exercise spots we would need to install facing boards over the pipe. Not a problem. 2c - Do I need an accumulator or similar? We will be having 2 showers, with potentially one or two extra later, but if we grow to need them we will have more money to spend. Wrap-Up 3 - Have I missed anything? I would welcome comments on any of the above, perhaps especially from known gym users such as @Onoff and @jack or relevant pros. Any advice from anyone would be most welcome. Cheers Ferdinand

Yes they are, as the urls are public. Unless the site is configured to ban search engines by using the robots.txt file, or some other less obvious way. And you can link to all the posts on a given tag: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/tags/cement/ But a forum has so many ways in that the amount of extra search prominence without external links may not be *that* great. F

If you want to submit eg Planning Documents on paper, then they may insist on colour. The Planning Inspectorate do, for example. Unless you really know what you are doing or precision is not critical, or you only use the *printed* thing to look at (therefore having a local standard in your own environment), it is probably not worth using them to specify precise colour - since camera, screen etc will all be different in appearance for the "same colour". Calibrating it all to work through the process is a pain. The A3 may be an advantage for plans, as may duplex (which is available at all price levels and can be a basic requirement) given the length of planning documents. I do have a big colour laser (A3 duplex, to about 300gsm card, 25k page toner cartridges that *hurt* to replace), but it came secondhand via Ebay from a print-shop that discovered more demand than expected so was about the price of the toner that was still in it. I also have a little sub-£100 mono laser. If you can handle moving and maintaining it (mine weighs about 75kg), a big secondhand one is relatively very cheap (mine: ~20% of new at 6 months) and will last a long time. If you need one. Ferdinand

I do not like the look of that gutter liner finishing on the inside face of the wall. That could drive water down the inside of your wall if eg it is filled with leaves or if snow settles. It needs to be mortared 25mm into a joint in or taken over the top, surely? How are you going to access and maintain it (and the bigger roof above)? I would want to make the shallow pitched roof walkable-on. OK with GRP if you avoid the joints; not sure about EPDM - perhaps with deck shoes. Ferdinand

@BenF After a little more reflection, some more detailed comments. It would be useful to know: 1 - Do you have PP or can you still mess change it easily? 2 - Are you in a regulated area eg conservation or eg listed? 3 - What standard are you planning to build to? If it is anything like well insulated you will have thermal and solar gain issues with all those south-facing windows and skylights, never mind the aggravating factor of having the proportions of a bent narrowboat broadside on to the sun with essentially a glass wall on that side . 4 - Skylights? Personally I think those skylights look not-very-attractive and a bit scattergun. 5 - Is the back straight on to the street? 6 - Are your slates reclaimable? Hopefully your architect is already talking about solutions. She seems to have quite attractive pricing at about 6-8% of project cost (based on her website). Possibly Clare Nash is one to consider for others here. My thoughts. 3, You need to think about shading and brises soleil. And the low height makes that quite demanding. Technical solutions such as anti-solar film are available, but I would also consider something like an orangery / veranda / winter garden / arcade (see eg Italy or Spain) along part or all of it. Were that to be combined with a partial screening wall further out in the courtyard (no reason why it needs to be totally solid, or straight on plan) you would get a courtyard garden sun trap hidden from overlooking where you could cavort in private to your hearts' content, while keeping rooms private. You may need to move the entrance in the courtyard wall more away from the house. That would also help with overheating in the autumn / spring. For the veranda I would consider a roof made of solar panels at a shallow angle which cannot be seen from the ground, or with eg a 150mm high edge parapet. Thermal modelling will be important. 4 - I think those roof windows would be better on the North side, so that quite-deep rooms had lighting both sides. Roof windows give much more light than wall windows. You may be able to drop the slit windows entirely. You also would not have to look at them from your garden, and the solar panels could be tidier. This rental of mine uses a similar principle backing on to a public path: It is discussed in this blog entry. The rooms are approx 4.5m deep and the back-side roof windows are transformative. 5 - If it does back straight onto the street, and you choose the wrong finish, Gorbag the Graffiti Artist will potentially have a ball, and Lobelia the Licensing Officer could make you pay loadsamoney for scaffolding licenses to repair/maintain it. 3ft of your land outside there would make all the difference. Tactically you could maintain it while the Council were not looking. More effectively you could leave it like it is now and perhaps just repoint, or finish in powerwash-off anti graffiti paint. 6 - Reuse if possible. Assume you are planning this. Ferdinand

Welcome. It seems to have the right orientation. Is solar planned? You will certainly get fit going to bed .

I meant the spray gun part, and empty of paint. SO the only thing that is not done is the full half hour cleaning routine,

@daiking Unless there is a show stopper I would go with something as close as possible to the right place already. They will presumably be LEDs so no significant load from the lights, though you may want to consider an external socket on the patio wall too ? I am not sure what stance a lecky would take wrt to certification with a cable he has not seen installed underground, without appropriate evidence or supervising the install. Could the correct type of isolation via a master switch internally or water-certified external junction box put it outside the scope? One way I deal with Ts wanting external power is to supply a proper outside double socket by a professional electrician with an internal master switch, FCU or separate circuit from the CU, and leave them to do what they will outside. PS Plan B Fit a duct / drawstring and let the electrician pull his cable through. F

TRusting that your sister is not called Theresa. As the bishop said to the wrong actress of the twins ...

I think ours is left in a bucket of water overnight and is fine. Would not leave it for several days, but the amount of masking means that I would block-schedule it anyway.

Real men do not pee in showers. They might use a chamberpot, though.

How is it possible sensibly to test a fake result, short of the Council employing a person to dig another hole? And how would it be enforced short of expensive inspections and/or compulsory sample drilling? And how would simple bribery be prevented? And it would have to pay for itself. Ferdinand

There is a good thread here with a lot of experience I have standardised on spraying but am still in search of an ideal paint for the finish coats for refurbs. We have not yet achieved the speed quoted above but it os certainly very quick. The thread describes my experience and others. I would be interested in the comments of a pro like @Glynn - especially on kit. Perhaps a thread merge? F

Agree with RA approach. But I might do a short and blunt summary first.

Think ar least slightly about potential complications that may happen later on a sublet supply.if eg you sell one house and not the other. In your circs I would do it though. Effectively you are borrowing the splitting cost from yourself in x years time, as the purchaser in 20xx will deduct it from the price. Ferdinand

That is the proof that Trump is also an adjective.

Oooer. I think I am keeping clear until after your 4th beer. (But it looks OK to me. Friday problem at Building Control?) It happens I just submitted representations against a planning appeal - deadline is midnight today. If you want a good night's sleep I can send you my document to read. F

A useful little checklist I cam across on my local COuncil website for people planning to object to a Planning Application, or trying to make a Planning Application bulletproof. What Is A Planning Consideration? Should you wish to comment on a current planning application, the following lists shows other considerations that will and will not normally be taken into account when considering a planning application Material Planning Considerations - what is normally taken into account? Relevant policies Overshadowing/Loss of light Overlooking/Loss of privacy Scale/Size Design/Appearance/Materials/Layout Dominance Highway/Pedestrian safety issues Traffic generation Site history Noise/Disturbance/Smells Local character Conservation (historic buildings) Loss of important open spaces Drainage issues Wildlife (particularly protected species such as bats or newts) Landscaping and trees Loss of important physical features Potential conditions Non-material Panning Considerations - What is not normally taken into account? Impact on property values Private property issues such as boundary dispute, access rights, damage caused to your property by a third property Matters covered by other legislation such as Licensing or Building Regulations The perceived morals/future intentions of developers Loss of a view Competition (ie new competitor business starting up) The above lists are by no means exhaustive but give an overview of the types of issues that would normally or not normally be considered. Link: https://www.ashfield.gov.uk/residents/planning-and-building-control/planning/what-is-a-planning-consideration/ Yay Newts! Ferdinand