Ferdinand

When I attach rockwool these days I do it with a staple gun, or batts which may self-hold. Surely your wet mess will evaporate into the perfect 50% humidity of your newly insulated and ventilated house. ?

There is good advice on this thread - mainly to take time and care yourself, but I do not think we have an expert on the forum. First thought: You need to understand what "Grade A" means. I am also no expert, but the LH sample is a "tangential" cut (ie around the log) and looks to be either heatwood or a smaller tree, and the RHS one is some form of "quarter" or "radial" cut (ie out from the centre. I do not think the RHS one is rubbish - just different, through certainly faster grown. You need to know that your whole batch is the same, or at least understand the variability. They will behave differently on the wall - the LHS one may "cup" one way or the other on the wall, due to the grain - even though it is heavier. And that needs to be taken into account when you install. See: https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-composites/woodlumbercuts.html My suggestion is to take advice from someone who has done lots of cladding, and be clear about what you want, to choose someone either reputable or local (Vincent Timber?), and to place quality before price. But you need to be clear on your goal first, and understand the particular boarding you are using and that it will fit your requirement. If that requires a little more care/money or a specialist (eg if your architect or other has done lots of cladding projects) to help you, then imo it is worth doing for such a prominent visual feature. OTOH timber is a fascinating subject to learn about yourself. Ferdinand

Worth noting that Rockwool sound insulation is only about £3-4 per sqm. Might be better for some areas. F

that is probably a contradiction in terms :-) My tip: in high spec airtight houses managing overheating is likely to be a larger problem than under heating. F

That is a PR blog I think. F

If you want to get to know your own project then I would start with graph paper an a pencil. Seriously. I use SweetHome3d, but it is not really good for garden layouts etc imo in that things like construction lines etc are awkward.

(assuming not Scotland) Classically you would enjoy Christmas, then declutter, primp and prepare in Jan in cahoots with your chosen agent. Then list in mid Feb and push from March, with a concentrated promotional period. Then you need to match what you do to your requirements - price, speed etc. You need to choose the best agent to sell your house, not necessaerily the one who promises the best price. F

What do the Estate Agents say wrt when to sell? When I buy houses to let, it is often about now as people discount their prices. What is your strategy and timing?

For historical reasons the first tune will be the excruciating "Herbert". Cranked up won't quite work.

My solution would probably be to assert that it is indecent to be able to see the seat, that covering the porcelain is pandering to not claening properly, and that the lid should be kept down in all civilised environments, and that therefore the alleged problem is completely absent, and that I am going fishing instead. Ockham lives. (If Mr Dave turns up on my doorstep splintered rod in hand demanding Diplomatic Asylum in my shed, I will know that it did not work.)

I am looking for a retrofit system to allow me to play music in different rooms. I'm not really an audio nerd - really want to avoid any major wiring, and need the capability to stream music / radio to selectable rooms. This is not something I have considered before, so any comments are most welcome. Cheers Ferdinand (Cliff Richard, eat your heart out. Really not sure about those pastel shade roller suits or Cliff's roller skills. Very 1981.)

The loo and price is also on my list...

No details on the spare box, and not clear where you are measuring from .. So piccies below. The loo model, seat and codes are in the sheet below, so you could order one and then return in 14 days.

I’m supplying evidence not opinions on this thread. I have 2 of these loos, and 2 spares seats, which are from Screwfix, and are listed on my bathroom refurb blogs with the model. I can confirm that D-shape high rise supplementary loo seats do not seem to exist; they are lozenge shaped. So bear that in mind for your dotage. So let the reader decide.

I would move that bathroom door towards the storeroom, and have it opening inwards towards the wall, which would leave you one useable corner by the web rather than two small corners. You might even get a separate shower in too. That 1360 French Window seems too narrow; your clear opening will only be 2ft for one door open which will annoy .. I inherited one and it is a pita. I would consider a normal width door or slightly wider plus a side panel of glass. Should also save 300-500 ukp. F

If it is a conventional loft, then you should I think still be able to get free insulation. Talk to the Energy Saving Trust for a local contact. Suspect the Hard to Insulate stuff may be means tested.

You are right this is all in the detail. 1 Have you actually measured it? Ie Sat on a dining chair where your car would be and measured the splays that you already have whilst your longsuffering (soon to be ex ?) friend wanders around with a bright jacket and a paintbrush? Has anyone told you what you do need, so you know your goal in comparing the two? 2 I think that if you have not done so, reading the relevant sections of Manual for Streets (MFS) would really help - there is a lot there. There are lots of things you can argue that might help, and it is the actual normal assumptions about those that would determine any appeal. There are several things that have not been mentioned afaics: 2 Two houses inside the same space that used to have one will not double traffic. It may push it up by 50%, but should not double it. I can see 1 x 4 bed going to say 2 x 2 and 1 x 3 bed. You need to know what assumptions are made, and how you can design or specify your house to work with that. 3 Is there a gradient? Stopping distances reduce uphill, and required splays are based on those. If it slopes the right way, that could help. 4 In built up areas the 'setback' (ie "X" distance) can be reduced to 2m sometimes not 2.4m. 20mph + traffic calming sounds arguable. 5 Remember that your splays will be set by the 20mph limit - though your survey may show traffic being slow, which I think you can use instead. 6 Where is the line to measure the setback from? Your minimal verge may or analogy with the general boundary rule may help slightly there. 7 Do you count the "centre" of your drive measuring point as between fences or the hardstanding? 8 Have you considered paying the other side to move their fence instead, and realign or splay the drive slightly? 1k to rearrange his dustbins plus a binstore built by you might be attractive. He obviously does not need to drive over the corner that is of interest to you as there is a damn great lamp post in the way. Make an offer that involves you getting what you need from that corner, which could be enforced via eg a covenant. Obvs if you get that the middle moves away from the wall so you can see more left. Question is how much you need, and how far back it has to go, given everything else. 9 The MFS has useful context words you can quote about how eg accidents coming out of driveways are very rare. May help you squeak through. And yes, I agree that once you have done enough research, it is worth having an assessment from a suitable consultant to see if you have a realistic case. (Update: on second thoughts I would just ask a Consultant for a 15 minute chat to 'quote', which I would make a fairly detailed chat, then be willing to pay say 300-500 for a short assessment report if they thought 'perhaps'. I would pay that to get more cetaintly and avoid the Planning Song.) @Sensus may shoot some of those down. F

That looks rather expensively fashionable for 600w ?. £50 per 100 watts. One of these at 10% of the price? Or several? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F2H1WF8/ If it is 20sqm then you need to work out the heat loss through walls etc. I do not see 600W having a lot of impact unless you are passive, or choose to focus on heating certain areas, or use it constantly, or just want the chill taken off. Also, is this a garden building or garage? 2-3 kW may be nearer the mark for peak requirement. For a really low tech comparison, 600W is about the same as 20 tealights for heating. A tealight puts out about the same heat energy as 2 normalised cats (that's wasted someone's morning). I can't comment on the decrement delay of a cat, unless it is shaved. We use one of the above linked heaters in our gym to heat a 3m x 4m (ish) area for children, for example. Suggest specifying type of heating and amount needed and usage pattern first - have you considered if reasonably well ventilated (whisper it quietly) a calor gas heater? I would run it through the @Jeremy Harris heat modelling spreadsheet first, which is very good. If you actually want to heat the whole thing for extended periods then I think you are more into things like split air-con units or even storage heaters or a woodburner. Or very big electricity bills. 20sqm is not small.

for some reason we have a shortage of restaurants close to here ?

Big FAQ in English, plus try Google Translate. Also, SkyBad exists. (Bad = "bath") Quite a bt of info on BH

Finally, quite a few here use German suppliers such as Megabad, but that has been somewhat poleaxed by the currency decline.

You could box it in and insulate if you need. F

Ron Currie's are actually huge on ebay - 21000 feedback ratings in whatever the period is. at 100% positive. They tell me they have several staff just processing orders. That is a good telltale.

There are some suppliers on my costings piece for my recent b/room on the blog. Some stuff is commoditised - eg shower screens from well feedbacked ebay suppliers. I use Ikea for whbs, stands and cupboards but have the stainless steel legs and doors that you are sure will not rust. For showers and baths and taps, decide what you want and then find the best supplier for you.

If it is a restaurant take a mini saw and trim the others instead. Permanent fix. Paddington Bear Rules.