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Marvin

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Everything posted by Marvin

  1. Hi and welcome @Mahak There are lots of rules about permitted development including: the limit of floor area of the building in relationship to the site. the 'original' size of the house when first built. The location of the building in relation to public highways I will try to find the link to the full details. Marvin
  2. Hopefully it only has chickenpox....
  3. Gonna need a s*** load of joint tape!
  4. Welcome. There are some very helpful people here but just remember, the only silly question, is the one you didn't ask. Marvin
  5. Contacted builders merchants beginning of the week. Me: Any room for a delivery next week? Answer: Yeah, you can have the delivery any day next week did you want am or pm?
  6. Hi @jayc89 Adding to @markocosic very good analysis, I would say that energy in = energy out, and so if your using 70kWh a day then its going somewhere. I know this is obvious, but there is also the thought, where? In my humble opinion: This suggests that the pipes betewwn the boiler and the UFH are loosing the heat: Boiler runs longer trying to keep the heat up. This suggests that the floor is already quite warm around the pipes. What floor coverings do you have. It can also mean that the floor is taking a time for the heat to rise. What are the pipes in? Screed? Concrete? Or the radiators are too small to supply the heat that the rooms are loosing. i.e radiators full on room not hot enough water flowing through back to boiler before loosing the heat. Airtightness and insulation are the main thoughts, but also over heating to areas of the building caused by exposed pipes or unregulated radiators. To go much further really needs info from you regarding the building size and thermal elements and how the building is ventilated. There are heat requirement calculators on this site that can help to understand what would be expected energy use. I don't know where they are as I have my own. Best of luck Marvin.
  7. No. Er, excess power gets sent to day storage heaters unless the water temp is below set level when digital thermometer powers the relay switch to the immersion.
  8. Hi @SteamyTea No meter on them but I will bung one on. Tomorrow a dull day so expect little....
  9. So, due to day storage heaters using only excess PV power we still have not turned on the ASHP yet. Works well through diverter. Set to hot water until temp met, then on to day storage heaters.
  10. Ours didn't, we used bottled gas for our boiler because we have no mains gas.
  11. Because the installation instructions discusses problems when the voltage drops, we had installed the next size cable up for the distance and ampage to reduce the risk of voltage drop and installed a type C RCBO
  12. I had to move the sensor on the ASHP out of the sun to stop the under heating...
  13. Hi @MortarThePoint Well, it would depend on the 'AIM' Airtightness, Insulation, Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery But the main thing people don't understand is that the bigger the number between the temperature outside and the set water temperature coming out of the ASHP the lower the COP (efficiency). This does not happen with a oil or gas boiler. ( it may to some degree but never twice or four time the efficiency, always below 100% efficiency) My last boiler was rated at high 90s% efficiency as long as used correctly. My ASHP is capable of efficiency from 180% to 634% efficiency depending on the difference between the temperature outside and the set water temperature coming out of the ASHP. If the outside temperature was -3C and the water temperature coming out of the ASHP was 35C and sufficient to heat the building, my ASHP would achieve a better COP (rate of efficiency) than if I ran the ASHP at 45C for a shorter amount of time to achieve the same heat output. M
  14. hi @SteamyTea Yes for your home but not for this house! Just like an ASHP installation, the results are affected by the ASHP model, installation, insulation, presumably an MVHR, shadowing of solar, wind, rotation, airtightness, quantity and habits of occupants and finally if the occupants have actually been informed and understand the best way to run an ASHP. Hence the problem when trying to answer the questions people ask like: "Is a ASHP cheaper to run?" or "Will an ASHP work on my house". and to get back on subject, in my humble opinion, both ASHP and Oil have their challenges and the answer depends on many individual specific items.
  15. Hi @Onoff head, nail, hit. If only it wasn't everything! Sadly your dealing with human attitudes and the opportunity for some to take advantage of us which don't seem to have changed since Plato. It could be worse!!!
  16. Hopefully across the joists and not along the joists....
  17. Hi @dnb Your calculating ability far exceeds mine, however my thoughts are: In a home it would make a difference as to where the floor load-bearing supports are. Towards the ends of the joists the limiting calculations may become the crushing strength of the joists the point load capability of the flooring and the load bearing capasity of the supporting wall below. Most people load books around the edges of rooms. The UDL figures you quote seem standard loading design figures. So no more than a typical house with typical contents. However if anyone knows otherwise, I'm sure they will let you know. M
  18. That's a challenge. We just have a gap under the doors. Light reducing is possible but sound as well I haven't heard of. How much free air do you need?
  19. Hi @BristolBuild2020 The rain water runs through a catch pit into a big storage tank underground, and is pumped up to the sand filter before draining from their into the cleaner water storage barrels, ready to be pumped for use on the garden or loos. This may help: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/blogs/blog/69-rainwater-harvesting/ Marvin
  20. HI @Tom I think your quite right, and my tank is only very hot at the top, but then I am using a top down immersion and/or the mid level water coil, however, the example I was thinking of was using PV generated power in the winter when there is little or less power. +1 with @joe90 above, we only set the tank on about 45°C when using the ASHP and only exceed this with excess PV power, which sometimes means if the next day there is little PV power we do not need to buy in power to heat the tank using the ASHP. This works for us, but we have super lagged the tank....
  21. Yes to overcome the dry months you need a store the size of a swimming pool. The system here is a DIY one and only for loos and garden watering. We use a sand filter to clean the water which once its used for a few days runs clear. We only store about 4m3 in various tanks.
  22. Further update from us... Average daily purchase from the grid this year is presently about 7kWh with an expected 3100kWh purchased by the end of the year meaning an average of about 8.5kWh purchased a day.(heavily skewed toward the winter demand) Comparing our daily PV power and power usage, and using the PVGIS information over several winters, there are days in the 6 months, October to March, when a lot of power would be sent to the grid even though we are buying it in from the grid every day. In February I just calculated that I will supply the grid with 80kWh unless I do something about it.... Now working on separating low peak power items in the house from the grid to be supplied by battery power. There is no way I can support the peak demands of things like cookers or electric showers, however the MVHR, Fridge and Fridge freezer, lights, the ASHP and auxiliary controls seem doable. This will need to be supported by a completely off grid system used solely at this stage to convert to battery recharging and inverting to AC, however an additional source of power is expected to be attempted next year. Peak demand for all items is 5kW. Daily usage when all up and running is expected to be 20kWh, 1.3kW most of the time. Battery charging rate needs to be 6kW. So thinking about sourcing inverter and batteries. Any suggestions? Marvin
  23. That's not a kitchen, that's a corridor.
  24. Looks like my mother's kitchen. About 1800mm across, so 600 counter and say 300 breakfast bar leaves what about a 900mm gap? If it was me I would do the kitchen without the breakfast bar and then see how it works out for you. Either way I think it's too long. Mum had a short draw under the bar for cutlery. Good luck M
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