Marvin

Or rotting concrete foundations

I thought it was from OGL - original ground level?

Which thermal panels and you thinking of fixing the brick slips to?

+1

What brand/brands of diverters are you using?

A diverter will only divert the excess power and, as far as I understand, can only supply equipment which uses all Resistive load, no Inductive load. As I understand it, a battery charger uses an inductive load so cannot be used with an immersion only (well, a resistive load) type of diverter.

Having spoken to the manufacturers of the Solic 200 (the immersion heater diverter I have) about diverting power to day storage heaters I have been advised of the following: You cannot have two of these type of diverters connected to your system even if you put the CT clamps at a distance from each other as they will "fight each other" for the excess power. Having said that I think some other companies make bigger ones but I think you would need a potential output of over 7kW of power to make this practical. The way to go is a relay switch. Yes your right. However the aim is to take any unused power from the PV and use it to store heat overnight when the home has the potential of getting cold. The aim is to use less purchased power in the night when PV is not producing. So the result could be some heat from the day storage heaters, and some heat from another source, which would make the warmth required less costly to maintain. The diverter would first heat the hot water tank to temperature with otherwise unused PV power, and then a day storage heater and then another day storage heater. These two heaters are positioned in the coldest parts of our home. The system used must not include any inductive load being supplied via the diverter. The way we are proposing to achieve this is through the following set-up: Diverter (in our case the Solic) supplies power into a 2 way relay The separate digital temperature controller supplies power to close the relay causing any excess PV power to go to the immersion when the hot water tank has a lower temperature. When the hot water tank is hot enough the relay is opened causing any excess PV power to go to a second relay and on to one of the day storage heaters. When the first storage heater is full a CT clamp relay will switch heaters.

I assume you don't have a bare copper or stainless steel 309ltr tank? That would be criminal.

Well they obviously don't want to be sued!!!

How could you guarantee the efficency of the boiler if it included the losses from all sorts of on site pipework variations? I think you answered you own thought. The same is true with ASHPs which seem to be more affected by the location of tanks and pipework.

So we now have the popular choice. Let's see what happens....

Good question. As you know, the ASHP delivers cooler water, so the radiators need to be bigger which will increase the flow rate to the radiators to fill the bigger size to keep the heat output. I personally think your answer depends on the size of the 3 radiators and how resistant the building is to thermal change. Good luck M

There are signs in markets that suggest after the 2022/2023 winter that prices will collapse..... But will they? And if they do would it only be part of wave cycle theory which says the price will fluctuate much more than usual but on a steeper upward path for years Personally I think the wave theory will prevail as humans are predisposed to greed and fear.

Unfortunately it's the nature of politics to talk about what the people want and not what the people need in their lives. It's one of the jobs that you get by being popular.

The heat recovery part tries to bring the outside air which is coming in, to meet the temperature of the internal air. If the outside air is colder than the inside air, it will increase the temperature of the incoming air. If the outside air is warmer than the inside air, it will decrease the temperature of the incoming air. Summer setting means the temperature of the incoming air is not altered. Not set to summer ( may be named recovery I can't remember what the switch says) will bring the outside air towards the temperature of the inside air. In the height of summer when over hot outside we use recovery because then the mvhr brings the outside hot air DOWN towards the more cooler home temperature.

Hi @David-1712 The flow rates for each inlet and outlet are on the top right hand side of the plan. The total of these ( picture a bit out of focus) should equal the minimum extraction, and therefore inlet of air related to the square meteridge of the building quicker. Vent axia have designed this to comply with building regulations. You can run it faster but in cold weather the heat will be removed from the building quicker. The seperate flows are usually confirmed using an Anemometer following the instruction manual. Also check the filters as shown, also how the summer winter system works.

Hi @Nickfromwales Are you intending to use the EVE LifePO4 grade A or Grade B ones? I've seen grade A suggest down to -5C

Tricky one.... how are they going to incentivise farmers to use less nitrites?

Again I was advised by our DNO that they did there calculations by using the maximum the inverter would allow to the grid, and not the amount of panels or what the limiter had been set to, hence we are allowed a 6.0kW inverter.

Hmm. I had to apply to install a 5.12kW system before commencing and SSE (our DNO) had to check that the existing local network would take the supply. 4 5kW more than 16amp??? so G99????

Well that would be interesting because house selfbuilders can apply for exemption.

Yes. Have tested one crispy chips.

He absolutely won't as that would make sense.

Sadly unless something is done we will all suffer. Unlike global warming discussions, this is an indisputable problem. However, penalising the new builds because everyone else got their first doesn't seem right, and I can't see a 'catchment tax' being levied on all homes in the affected catchment area being a vote winner either. So it looks like a central government funding issue... so up go the taxes....

With no leaks it would mean a valve has been turned off somewhere presumably in the home. Is the softener in a cupboard or in a position where the isolating valves could be accidently closed. The other one is the mains valve in the house is off presumably in the kitchen? Or finally, have you paid the bill. Why does the always happen last thing at night????