Marvin

Your right, I have seen no info about standby power usage. However having checked the calibration of the plug-in monitor I find that its suggesting that our mains is 200V when actually 243V so results would be different than the 80-90Wh measured, but certainly not down to your level.

Its supposed to be, however I have chosen to have this changed because of the amount of power it uses all the time. Having a contactor installed, governed by a timer and a digital external thermostat to protect from frost in the winter.

HI @hinge and bracket ASHP position?? Buffer tank? Sort this out very early!!!! If you want the ASHP to be efficient you need the external unit close to the building, if you are going to use a buffer tank the ASHP needs to be as close as you can get to the buffer tank. All external pipework (outside the buildings thermal envelope) needs to be super lagged. The plant room seems to be on the front garden side. Can you obtain permission to put an ASHP in the front garden (I would not want mine there). Check the MCS rules which would allow you to install one without planning (well in England but I don't know the Scottish rules) MVHR ducting in to all 'dry' rooms extract from all 'wet' rooms to the MVHR box. This is something that you should look at early because of all the ducting that needs to be installed. At least 2 pipes from the loft to the downstairs ceiling?? I'm not that good at form but form can be marred by function requirements.. @Iceverge is right about solar gain. It is a pain for us and we only have 4.2m2 in the east wall and 8m2 in the west wall. Because we have AIM we overheat when the temperature is over 16C outside. Luckily we also have APE so we can cool the place! Good luck The below may help. Marvin. It worth considering all the AIM and APE elements before making decisions. That is Airtightness, Insulation, Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery, and Air Source Heat Pump, Photovoltaics and Electric Vehicle. Some of these will not work properly without the others: A MVHR will not work properly without Airtightness. An Air Source Heat Pump will have to compensate for the lack of Airtightness and Insulation to the degree that the benefits become questionable, especially during winter, without them. An ASHP uses electricity and Photovoltaics can supply a little during winter and about 6 times more during summer when cooling can be a problem and an ASHP can supply cooling. PV can supply a little to an Electric Vehicle during winter and about 6 times more during summer (assuming your vehicle can be plugged in at home during sunny days). So if finances cause you to have to consider only a few in my humble opinion AIM first and go APE later. (but prepare the property for the APE works as much as you can).

Yes.... when you put the frame in you have to take into account the inside floor covering thickness. Secondly the cill must have solid support otherwise it will bend when wheeled over. Last one I repaired the fitters had filled the gap below the threshold with foam!!!

Hi @ollie We have an ASHP which is designed to be on standby (monitoring) all the time. It runs at about 80Wh measured over 2 days. Our freezer runs at about 70Wh and our Fridge freezer about 160Wh. So freezer a year = 70 Watts * 24 hours * 365 days is 61,320Wh or 61.32kWh a year. ASHP 80 *24*365 70kWh a year. Fridge freezer 160 * 24 * 365= 140kWh a year.

I guess that means no more than 34p per kWh for electricity...?.... does that mean raising to 34p if below???

Latest information suggests that fixed deals on electricity can/will be affected by the government cap..... My guess is, that if you fixed a higher rate, it may be reduced to the fixed rate for the length of the cap. But that's just a guess.

Or rotting concrete foundations

I thought it was from OGL - original ground level?

Which thermal panels and you thinking of fixing the brick slips to?

+1

What brand/brands of diverters are you using?

A diverter will only divert the excess power and, as far as I understand, can only supply equipment which uses all Resistive load, no Inductive load. As I understand it, a battery charger uses an inductive load so cannot be used with an immersion only (well, a resistive load) type of diverter.

Having spoken to the manufacturers of the Solic 200 (the immersion heater diverter I have) about diverting power to day storage heaters I have been advised of the following: You cannot have two of these type of diverters connected to your system even if you put the CT clamps at a distance from each other as they will "fight each other" for the excess power. Having said that I think some other companies make bigger ones but I think you would need a potential output of over 7kW of power to make this practical. The way to go is a relay switch. Yes your right. However the aim is to take any unused power from the PV and use it to store heat overnight when the home has the potential of getting cold. The aim is to use less purchased power in the night when PV is not producing. So the result could be some heat from the day storage heaters, and some heat from another source, which would make the warmth required less costly to maintain. The diverter would first heat the hot water tank to temperature with otherwise unused PV power, and then a day storage heater and then another day storage heater. These two heaters are positioned in the coldest parts of our home. The system used must not include any inductive load being supplied via the diverter. The way we are proposing to achieve this is through the following set-up: Diverter (in our case the Solic) supplies power into a 2 way relay The separate digital temperature controller supplies power to close the relay causing any excess PV power to go to the immersion when the hot water tank has a lower temperature. When the hot water tank is hot enough the relay is opened causing any excess PV power to go to a second relay and on to one of the day storage heaters. When the first storage heater is full a CT clamp relay will switch heaters.

I assume you don't have a bare copper or stainless steel 309ltr tank? That would be criminal.

Well they obviously don't want to be sued!!!

How could you guarantee the efficency of the boiler if it included the losses from all sorts of on site pipework variations? I think you answered you own thought. The same is true with ASHPs which seem to be more affected by the location of tanks and pipework.

So we now have the popular choice. Let's see what happens....

Good question. As you know, the ASHP delivers cooler water, so the radiators need to be bigger which will increase the flow rate to the radiators to fill the bigger size to keep the heat output. I personally think your answer depends on the size of the 3 radiators and how resistant the building is to thermal change. Good luck M

There are signs in markets that suggest after the 2022/2023 winter that prices will collapse..... But will they? And if they do would it only be part of wave cycle theory which says the price will fluctuate much more than usual but on a steeper upward path for years Personally I think the wave theory will prevail as humans are predisposed to greed and fear.

Unfortunately it's the nature of politics to talk about what the people want and not what the people need in their lives. It's one of the jobs that you get by being popular.

The heat recovery part tries to bring the outside air which is coming in, to meet the temperature of the internal air. If the outside air is colder than the inside air, it will increase the temperature of the incoming air. If the outside air is warmer than the inside air, it will decrease the temperature of the incoming air. Summer setting means the temperature of the incoming air is not altered. Not set to summer ( may be named recovery I can't remember what the switch says) will bring the outside air towards the temperature of the inside air. In the height of summer when over hot outside we use recovery because then the mvhr brings the outside hot air DOWN towards the more cooler home temperature.

Hi @David-1712 The flow rates for each inlet and outlet are on the top right hand side of the plan. The total of these ( picture a bit out of focus) should equal the minimum extraction, and therefore inlet of air related to the square meteridge of the building quicker. Vent axia have designed this to comply with building regulations. You can run it faster but in cold weather the heat will be removed from the building quicker. The seperate flows are usually confirmed using an Anemometer following the instruction manual. Also check the filters as shown, also how the summer winter system works.

Hi @Nickfromwales Are you intending to use the EVE LifePO4 grade A or Grade B ones? I've seen grade A suggest down to -5C

Tricky one.... how are they going to incentivise farmers to use less nitrites?