saveasteading

Cutting around just has to be done as best you can, and probably involves stuffing mineral wool into any odd gaps. If cold water then there is a possible danger of freezing, if now in the void below the insulation. If hot, you will lose heat into the void. So I would suggest you insulate the pipes first, before doing the floor. If the pipes are going to be 'in' the insulation then there should be no issue. you have said that the solum has a plastic sheet on it, so good. You have not mentioned ventilation of the void, which is important. Are there air bricks, and are they working? They are often covered by earth or paving.

I withdraw 'beware' and substitute, 'be very cautious'. Also, be aware that boreholes are a surprisingly primitive procedure, and the report depends on the operative paying attention and being interested. The Engineer is seldom present.

Beware of basements. Whatever the ground report says, the circumstances can change. New housing can put a lot more water into the drainage system, concentrating it downstream, and everyone's water table can rise. The planners and EA don't worry about this very much, if at all. The SUDS rules are rather lax, allowing all the water into the drains, just slowed down a bit. I know a village (now town) where the water table rose from minus 1.5m to minus 0.5m due to housing. That was before the changes we now allow for increased rainfall intensity. I would nearly always assume that the ground could get very wet to some height, and fully waterproof the construction. Exception for being on top of a hill and built on sand.

It works. In fixing steel roofs the best bet is an integrated nylon head the same colour as the roof. Plastic caps fall off. Once though had a very large roof that was a special colour. Hilti dipped all the screws (and washers) in the right colour of paint. I expected it to come off in the tek gun or over a couple of years but it didn't. Presumably they knew what paint to use. For timber screws I have simply primed and painted over screws, and it usually works. It shouldn't show from any distance. Yellowish screws on pine. silver on white and it may not need paint... not sure with brown or black.

Interesting. I thought that the cold-store panels only came in white and with a food-friendly plastic coating that is not good in weather. But you say there is a dark silver (anthracite?) outer sheet. Do you think this is integrated (ie a special) or a separate sheet outside. Presumably it is profiled for any chance of strength against the wind. it would be feasible to fix the weather sheet to the insulated panels using stand-off brackets, combining strength, saving structure. PIR is very much cheaper for these panels than mineral wool, and the differential increases with thickness. If you notice any more quirks I'd be interested to hear. The cold-store installers have never been interested in new ideas, hence always a box in a box and some structural redundancy. But perhaps here is a new idea...but is it a good one...? The gap at eaves may work in uk summers, as the occasional build up of heat under the roof will be ventilated away. No birds, but insects may be an issue, and the food retailers are rightly paranoid about vermin. I have been there during inspections of my finished buildings, by Mars, Nestle, M and S, Waitrose. It was encouraging that they took it so seriously, and they checked all the 'right' areas where most buildings are vulnerable. I wonder how the base is done. Traditionally there is a 300mm pit in the concrete slab, in which they fit polystyrene and then a steel floor. That needs to extend to, or beyond, the wall panels, which will be a special detail in 'your' case or it will clash with the 'skeleton'.

To some Architects and Engineers this will be very easy to do , and they don't need much time to do it, so you will get what you need at a decent price. To others everything is like a new invention, and takes too long, and they charge you more. In other words I think, use someone who does this sort of house as a matter of course, not someone who says they can do anything...their expertise, or need for it, is spread too far. and you must tell them clearly that you are not looking for amazing ideas, just a house that works.

Yes you can take this literally. as long as other conditions don't say 'no work to start...' etc. And so you could also do underground work, up to slab level as far as planning is concerned, ....but that needs building reg's. £4k is not silly. not silly low anyway. Feasible as you say you will be doing a lot yourself, but don't expect much hand-holding, or to include many changes of mind. The building inspector is unlikely to help either, so your own drawings will have to be technically complete and competent. £15k sounds a lot, and should cover the whole of the project management...you just keep paying the builders. But check that it does include that. Berks way, there are varying expectations on income. Perhaps your £15k has to pay for the chalet in France and the pony club. You get what you pay for except when you don't. It does sound from what you say that you do need a fair amount of professional help with this, and it costs. What is your worry with the waste pipe gradient?

Where in the country? The processes and consequences can be very different.

No, don't have it, but used to use it and it will be all very sensible but nothing cheap for you. Basically are there any ways to protect the pipe from wheel loading? A reinforced concrete slab is a good solution and is not expensive. It is just concrete with reinforcement in it. Alternatively a steel plate. Off the wall solution...buy a ready made drainage grate system (car strength) and use it as a duct. Some of these. Other makes tend to be cheaper, but may not be better.

A wood clad roof! I would not dream of this. (There was one a few years ago, a school in the south-west, that won awards but, last I heard, is abandoned or demolished after a couple of years.) It might be liked aesthetically, but would need a 'proper' roof underneath it to keep the weather out, then allow for replacing the timber every few years, or considering it a green roof. On a wall we leave an air and ventilation gap behind for the inevitable leaks. On a roof the leaks will be greater in number and quantity. So if you must have wood 'cladding' on the roof, put a steel roof on first. Oh, and then don't bother putting on the timber. Purely my opinion you understand, but I would politely decline to either design this or build it for a client.

And re painting. I have a house made of wood. It is painted white and needs repainting every 3 years, at least in part, when old layers spall off. I think there may be 12 layers there, and some were clearly paint onto dirt. Mostly it is heat or damp that causes the failure. For a new building I would always prefer stain. That said, the cheap brands take just as long to apply so I only use the big names. For a neutral finish I choose 'oak' and it barely changes the colour of tanalised pine cladding. However there is a lovely sheen and the colour stays indefinitely. I have often contrasted this with the 'almost black' brown, called dark palisander. In the shade it retains colour indefinitely, while in the sun it benefits from a recoat in 10 years. It never peels off. Did you note that I have written tanalised not tantalised? I have added it to my dictionary to overcome spell-check.

Screws or nails? I specify screws and then find the joiner is trying to provide his own nails or even nail gunning. NOOOOOH The reason is obviously that nails are very much quicker and is what they are used to. BUT good screws will cut a hole and reduce splitting, self countersink, adjust in our out, and come out again if necessary. If a board cracks or distorts it can be adjusted or even removed without ripping the wall apart. I only buy the ultra modern screws that do all these things. they seem expensive but there is no wastage, the slots can be used as often as necessary for in/out. If they have to come out again having hit a nail etc, then they are as good as new. I last bought Ulti-mate and they were almost a pleasure to use. Twice the price of the cheapies, but at 10p for an 80mm it is incredible engineering, and comes with a head that holds the screw at any angle. Downside of a screw....the head is on show.

I recently used EPS to insulate a small area of wall in a cottage refurb. Chosen because it was available immediately in Wickes and not expensive. As the majority of the remaining walls remained uninsulated, it was just sensible and far from an optimum solution. It was not nice to work with. Cutting with a saw leaves thousands of ball droppings on the floor. Inaccuracies of a few mm do not squeeze out of the way, as the sheet will crack. Cutting with a knife ok, but needs both sides or snaps randomly. Then any little gaps are difficult to fill. I just pushed in offcuts of the eps or of mineral wool. In a ground floor, suspended floor I would probably favour PIR or wall batts, depending on dimensions and cutting waste. 2 layers of PIR sounds handy as any errors in cutting will balance out and the second cut allows correction. I have often tried to find a way of insulating under the whole floor structure, but have not found the answer yet ( and I don't see multi-layer as the answer) Easy if there was loads of headroom, but not for the standard gap. Assuming you are talking about a wooden floor, about 400mm above the original ground, what is the surface? In Scottish regulations there is a requirement for the exposed ground, that seldom seems to have been applied in older English buildings. and the handy word Solum can be thrown into conversations. I do recommend something along these lines before you hide it forever. at least add a polythene sheet and ensure good ventilation of the void.

To our dismay, the companies all want to be paid for a 'survey'. The survey will say , yes you have woodworm and some wet rot, and you should fix the leaks. Then they will provide a quote. Cynical me thinks they don't think we will pay for another survey. Convenient when they all want paid for a 'survey' to calculate a quote. If I had been paid for every estimate or free advice done over the years, at £90 for every couple of hours, how different things might be.

To complete the sum, do we then divide (.01/.013) 1/13 of £0.37, to obtain 3p p.a./m2 saving? Thanks for this, it is good to have this info when playing around with options.

A bottom run support is rare. it perhaps only works properly where the door is so big that it is running on big wheels, eg hangar. Also standard on some sliding gates. The downside of bottom runners, if you can find them, is that they stick in the guide, on muck or stones. The steel has to be designed for the worst case so that the deflection is negligible. European shaped beams are taller and thinner and can work well. Another option can be to hang the centre from another element of structure, so that it does not deflect at all, but this is not always feasible.

want to do a good job and are just not looking for the paperwork Gus Potter thanks. We do want paperwork as mortgage will require it, so will need to contract it out. Your points about thoroughness are noted. We can get rid of webs and muck first. Perhaps total supervision, to the point of annoying the workers will be the answer. to thorough coverage including through gaps and into corners.

If you are in a region with granite, there is a strong chance of needing radon protection under the floor, either a special dpm barrier or a ventilation system. I used the government Radon map and it showed the lowest risk category that requires special measures. But it was on the edge of the averaged big square so I invested in the online assessment. It asked for postcode then address from a list and then came back immediately saying 'no radon risk, no special measures . Specifically "What is the requirement under Building Regulations for radon protection in new buildings and extensions at the property location? - None" I assume that it uses a much more detailed map than is published. £3.90 spent and many hundreds saved, and a simple certificate for the Building Warrant application. So I recommend others to look at the map on line first , then get this assessment if it appears to be a radon area.

Any advice on the likely cost for woodworm and rot spray treatment please? It is a completely open barn with no attics or impediments other than the height.. the roof is substantial A trusses and timber sarking boards (with gaps) measuring 400m2 of surface, on slope. Plus some floor joists and floor boards, 100m2. All softwood, probably all local and wide grained. Nothing on the floor to worry about, and masses of fresh air whistling through. Eaves 3m , ridges 5.5m and I assume they carry long lances so can be done from the ground. Does not need a survey. there is worm and there is rot and they need to be treated, esp the worm. There is no death watch in the highlands (too warm and dry for them?) , and as far as i know, that is the one that needs different treatment.

Thanks Prodave. The airtight membrane will clearly perform just that, and I forgot. It is nothing fancy is it, a sheet of polythene? I rather like the silvered scrim version because it is strong, but costs more. Like Monarflex but much cheaper, if I can find it again. I saw you had a fancy type. Why not just polythene? Not convinced of the need for the vapour barrier, but will do no harm for sure. You wouldn't put it in between the brick of an outer skin, and the cavity batt, and brick is more permeable. The cost of a 'second division' membrane for all the walls would be £500 plus labour but 'thinking lean' is default. But if it is expected, and eases it through the warrant, then I will def add.

Would anyone care to crit this preliminary design please? 2 drawings below. Of course these will be submitted in cad form. The building is a Scottish farm steading. The walls and roof are substantially intact, and there is a concrete floor. The building regulations requirement is for 'reasonable effort' to be made re insulation, and that includes cost. As there is only 4.5m wall to wall, the wall lining has to be kept skinny. There is also a headroom issue in some locations, but I may increase the floor insulation where feasible, if steps can be avoided. Of course we want good insulation too, and I have come up with this compromise. The 1m of bitumen sheet lining shown at the bottom of the wall is cribbed from another steading's blog, and seems clever, but I don't know if it is expected or standard. The dpm may have to be radon spec. It is marginal and I will check. All existing timber will be sprayed. I am quite pleased with my idea of having a 25mm cavity batt between stone and stud, as it will provide a thermal break and also allow tolerance in verticality. As it is waterproof, I don't think we need vapour barrier. Which then makes me think, do we need that bitumen tanking barrier: it is there to keep the wettest part of the wall away from the inner materials, but the insulation can do that, as in any cavity wall. At £15/m this comes to a lot of money but may be worth it for peace of mind. I have shown a 25mm air gap between sarking and insulation, because it is required with PIR. Not quite sure why PIR needs it but Batts don't. Actually more is stated but it is guidance only, and we have sarking boards with gaps, which is much better for ventilation than whole OSB sheets would be. However, I think there will be much less waste in cutting PIR between the rafters, than batts. Adding a 4mm insulating strip to timbers before boarding is just a thought. I will calculate the effect on the U value and suspect it is trivial. theoretically it also provides a gap between insulation and board, and hence a surface, but i think that would be nonsense to allow unless cynically chasing a specific U value target. Cost-wise, I have to assume that availability and prices will settle down by the time of doing the work. What else might you want to know? Underfloor wet heating, air source. Mostly single storey with highish ceilings. Some existing upper floor, with very tight headroom below ties. Most of the roof soffit will be boarded over, perhaps exposing some ties. It is mostly in good condition but not pretty. Obviously we don't want to take off the roof and rebuild, so working underneath is the only option. All comments are welcome as are ideas, especially proven, but also wild, and do ask if anything is unclear.

I would buy that timber now. Worth a lot. A few years ago I tried very hard to get a lot of high quality (reusable) dismantled structural timber taken 1. to a charity workshop that re-regulates and sells. Too far for them, and they had enough already 2. To get used for wood-chipping for energy....they only buy pellets or use new logs. 3. to the county incinerator, to make energy.....they don't accept materials from businesses. 4. taken anywhere that will process it......Failure So it went away in skips and is either rotting in a field or in landfill. I phoned the quango that pushes reuse and recycling, I think called ReMade, and they had zero suggestions, although that is all they existed for. I told them this later at an exhibition, and all they could do was hand out more glossy brochures.

Are Nolte available to buy without the fitting by dealer service? : I can't see a retail option.

Agreed as above, having built with steel for decades I can say this. in a wet or damp environment you need serious protection, galvanised and painted with special stuff. swimming pools look good with just factory galavanising, special paint, or the 'right' plastic coating. In an utterly dry environment, just like a warehouse say, it will never rust, and primer finish looks good still after 30 years. However , in an enclosed space where potentially there could be damp, I would protect it. Spec's will say sand blast and prime and so on. In reality, a coat of bitumen will stick and protect it, as will single coat paints (Hammerite/Ruberoid etc). expensive but worth it. in your case, I don't know the circumstances. If the steels are on show then of course paint in a suitable colour. If hidden, bitumen, but up to you.

Managed to blag 2 bags of cement at the local BM, I think because they want our account....good thinking on their and our parts. Some is there, and they are rationing it among regular buyers, which sounds fair to me.