saveasteading

That is really helpful. except I am still surprised that there is much noise from the roof flow , unless the new roof is very light weight and has little sound absorption. I can't see that you have any height for a new surface. Anything you build will need a gap between it and the existing wall and may create big build-ups and problems. One suggestion and then I give up. Have a gutter made specially that tucks under the tiles. then slopes out to the front at about 45degrees, and then to flat. or a curve. this would catch the flow quietly and guide it onto the flat roof. As I said earlier check the spec of the membrane. If it was specified for sedum then it isn't any good in daylight. Your architect and builder should have allowed for one or the other. that also creates an issue near the edge as the membrane has to change where the sedum stops.

| am currently calculating soakaway sizes for rain and foul. Scottish Standards section 3. Can anyone explain the logic of why the soakaway area for rainwater is half of the effective depth, and only to the sides (as if nothing runs out of the bottom!). Meanwhile for treated foul water outfall, the bottom area is the criterion. I don't have any problems with this, but would like to understand any logic, if there is.

So I would resist the big pebbles thing. They will slow the flow and back it up against the wall and the awkward junction you are making. Are you sure there will be a noise when you have built this? Or is it already mostly built? I am ever more confused about what you have . sketch or photo please? If the new roof is snug to the main roof tiles, it can't be falling far and shouldn't be much splashing or noise. if snug, how would you fit a thickish layer of sedum or other material. How about a nice gutter to catch the water and a couple of pipes that shoot the rain smoothly and silently in the right direction.? This is what people usually do and it works.

falls onto it direct from the roof, or via a gutter and downpipe?

Back to basics. If this is only to stop the splashing noise then tiles are not the answer. What is causing the noise? Rain falling from another roof or gutter? Is it also for appearance.

May be ok then. Let us know!

The holes will be covered by the washer and bolts so the cut edge can be painted or smeared to protect it. This stair will clang when used. Does that matter?

Well, yes and no. Actually no. But if there is any problem and if they are helpful they could ask you to take out the controversial bit. So yes.

I forgot: the fridge side has a water filter in it so that does not happen any longer. I guess any decent make will have that now. It is about £12 every 6 months for a filter (not the official one) but a lot cheaper than a new American fridge. The water from the chiller tap tastes a bit sweeter too.

I was going to say that! Has been in for about 10 years and no problems with my plumbing, but on our second freezer...I think lime killed the ice-maker and there was no way to stop it. (we have lime for g and t in our mains water.)

For certainty of fixing I would choose a combined screw and plug, like these. BUT I would use Fischer or other big brand....diall own brand are very variable I have found, but I couldn't quickly find Fischer bigger than 10mm. They exist and I'm sure you will find them if interested. https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-universal-nylon-steel-wall-plug-l-60mm-dia-12mm-pack-of-20/1584932_BQ.prd

All agreed as per MarkC. A stair is a fairly stable and static thing, so very little pull-out on the fixings. If the Engineer says M12 then M12. But you can get M12 into plastic plugs so is very easy. For shims, the easy and cheap source is fence washers, big ones. screwfix as this https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-steel-square-washers-m12-x-4mm-50-pack/452ft If you go to a merchant they will try to charge £50 for a bag of a hundred but come down to £15 or so on demand, so get a price from the rep first. Steel shims are otherwise stupidly expensive, so a few hundred steel sheds are on the washers...BUT then fully grouted with dry mix afterwards. Shims (and washers) often have bends and sticky-out bits and don't pack tightly, so also give them a bash to flatten out.

Another thought. the spec for a sedum roof should have had a very special roof covering that resists the roots. However it is not UV resistant, so be careful to see the whole design through if you make changes. A tray of stone will be very heavy, and get heavier as it fills with muck and then weeds. Just spread light covered gravel.....or leave it bare and do something better with the water.

Very retro. roofing felt used to have stone either in it or sprinkled on top for durability and heat reflection. It works, but it also collects dirt and may need cleaning occasionally. I agree re sedum. it only converts CO2 to plant once, after which it lives and dies. also you will be importing it from far away. I don't like that planners place sedum above harvesting and lagoons in the hierarchy of sustainable design. But rhen they dont undestand the impolications, and have fallen for the hype. When explained, I find that they accept changes.

Up to you, but I suggest you get this cleared formally by the building inspector. Even 1mm of settlement (or other movement) and a gap will be created. Seasonal movement and drying of the ground could also make this happen, and it is then not resolvable.

V disappointed at your comment here. You have had good advice from many knowledgeable people here, for what is a relatively simple solution (and which your free advisors all understand). These people may or not be Engineers. An SE would not have made you put in over-specified joists, and you haven't minded paying for that. No more from me on this case.

Will these be driven piles? if so the company has to know the depth so that they buy and bring the right lengths. If bored or vibrated then it is all made on site, but they have to know when to stop. In short you need a survey unless the information is already available. As above. Ask the neighbours. Also phone some piling companies.....they gather a lot of information and can at least have a guess at the solution to get you started. The bore holes are not expensive, and may save you much more in the final account.

Is he waiting for the yak herds to come through?

How many fills of that mixer? I don't suppose it has to be in one pour though as it is dead weight, not structural. What size of digger is that?

A 15dia hole isn't much worse than a knot. keep it central and the forces will swerve around it. As you need more than one hole, keep them well apart. I think the rule of thumb is something like 40 diameters, so 600 I would expect an Engineer could prove it, esp as the joists are overdesigned, one redundant even, but best not go there. wall bridging 2 joists is better. if you have a choice, a hole like this is best as far from central span as you can, ie towards the supports.

With a Highland project and 4 timber mills in the area, I wrongly expected better value. I spoke to one of the operators, and he said that I'd be better buying Russian cls from the merchants than commissioning them for it. Quotes confirmed that. The local timber isn't so strong either as it is too warm and the timber grows fast. Sterlingboard is made 15 miles away, but is going abroad.(China and US they say) For larger timbers perhaps the local places will be better, but it seems we are talking small differences. Own labour and very strict control of design and waste will be essential.

interesting. worth another look perhaps.

I think this is sensible, to prevent people living in a caravan permanently. Buy the site, get planning permission, set up caravan....no more cost, but a permanent caravan would not have been permitted. It seems that any believable or sensible reason is acceptable, but that there is a limit eventually, when they say 'last chance..6 months'. That is news to me...planning requires a start in 3 years and then can take forever. I didn't know there was any building control time limit.

I'm not convinced anything will fall much. The manufacturers will have vastly improved profits and little incentive to invest in increased production....we will buy their chipboard and timber at some time, when we give up on the price returning to normal. Norbord, who make Sterlingboard and Caberfloor have been bought by an even bigger company, West Fraser, and their new owner published this. • Sales increased 61% from the prior quarter to $3.779 billion • Earnings increased to $1,488 million, or 39% of sales, from $665 million in the prior quarter I feel we are in their hands.

Another thing to look at is depth. Some of these tanks are high, others are long. This then requires an excavation to a greater or lesser depth. Safety-wise it is always best to be shallow, and someone is going down that hole to spread the concrete base, whether shore or not. It depends on the ground too as to easy or difficult digging. A deeper one may be fine if there is limited space, or if your drains are already deep by that position (but if so, why?).