saveasteading

If there is a hip, then the sheet is cut on the diagonal to fit, and the triangle is thrown away. Also is a tricky cut, (with a nibbler or shears) to avoid mistakes. So say there is a hip-end, then every sheet is cut and has wastage, unless you can flip it over and use the cut angle on the opposite hip...in my experience the cladder has to be told exactly how to cut every sheet, otherwise the old habit of a new sheet every time comes in. With slates and tiles the same angled cuts exist but the wastage is a small fraction. also metal sheets have to be quite precisely ordered, to fit just over the gutter and under the ridge. For a big roof it may be that 2 sheets are used, and then they overlap. Tiles take away that risk and precision. summary...for a big roof i think metal is much cheaper in material and labour. For a small roof tiles/slates, and you would struggle to find a metal cladder anyway.

Is there already a floor? does it ever get wet?

Intuitively, metal cladding is much cheaper than slate, or even good tiles, with standing seam somewhere between. However: Metal cladding gets tricky at diagonal cuts, and there is also a lot of cutting waste (unless you are very clever with lengths and cutting schedule) For a small job, the delivery on cladding can be disproportionately high too, as it needs palletising and gash cover sheets. Beware of agricultural quality. I am not understanding the need for 2 sheets of osb and battens. I would spec: osb, breather membrane, battens, metal sheet.

So that must be comforting, in a way, that your fears are professionally confirmed. To be sacked Monday morning, preferably confirmed in writing, explaining why. It is tempting to hope that everything turns out ok, and worry where will you get another builder. But just imagine living in here with any doubts about the strength and stability. I have sacked builders on day 1, with little idea where I will find replacements, and the risk of penalties from the client. Without fail the builders say you can't do this and you will be stuck without us. But quality and safety must come first, and it always turned out ok. Make sure you keep evidence, photos, all this forum discussion and your Engineer's comments (if it is not in writing, transcribe your recollection now before it becomes vague). Why? I don't want to worry you, but some builders will claim for money they aren't entitled to, and some can be unpleasant and vindictive. Be ready to counter with strength that you would sue for damages/ demolition/fee or get police or whatever as appropriate. I believe they see it in your eyes if you have this logic prepared, and they walk away. Just for interest, and don't answer if you don't want to, have you paid them much?

Tiles yes but not concrete slabs? Would you put these slabs on dots, or a continuous bed or direct on sharp sand?

These are heavy duty plain council slabs by the looks, so I cant say it would worry me aesthetically, as long as they are laid solidly. To see outdoor slabs done properly watch municipal work in a Spanish city. 200 good sub-base, 200 reinforced concrete slab, sand bed then slabs with a marble facing. Doesn't budge. Watch it with a cerveza and charge it to R and D.

They really do fail with a cone of concrete attached to the bolt.

Difficult to say from one picture, but I cant really see a problem other than colour change. This could be changes in the concrete mix, and will wear off. I have found slab layers to be among the most opinionated of trades, and seldom right. He may be trying to show what an expert he is, and pitch for relaying these too. If you can describe the issue more it might help.

We once employed some Polish workers (on the books) whose work ethic (and attitude) was wonderful. BUT one day I asked one of them to drive me to the builders' merchants in our van. He had no thought to speed or safety and I asked him to slow down and be more careful. He answered that we were all governed by destiny, and what happens, happens, and you can't influence it. So might as well drive quickly as slowly. Scary thought: These people are on our roads and on our sites, and also spreading Covid.

If you want help on this you have to give us some information. My initial thought though is that you have an Architect. He should have either designed this to suit the requirements, or do so now, or have told you that there was a risk of it not being approved. Make him work at what he is engaged to do. In the first instance request an extension of time for the decision while you find a solution. This is very important. the planners have strict deadlines for a decision or they get into trouble personally and as an authority. If you allow an extension then they can relax, and the alternative is usually a refusal.

Agreed. We may know a lot between us, but we are not there to poke at it, and not able to represent you.

There is no such thing as a bad idea......we say to clients. Admirable off-the-wall thinking. What is the problem with the toilet onto the ground floor, other than losing those floor-level cupboards?

Unfortunately it is a bit inexact on levels. it is rounded to 1m and the sampling appears to be very far apart. Some areas are clearly interpolations, or just wrong. depending on where you live, you can get a full survey done (yours sounds very easy) for £300, or can be £2,000 from someone who is slower without the kit. The £300 can be for a half day with very sophisticated kit (which they own) which transfers to computer and plan. OR old fashioned level on an existing plan. The top costs come when there is no competition, or where someone has to hire the kit for £300 and then draw it up. So ask around. The planners will want a plan, but it probably doesn't have to be very detailed. For a 3 acre site I suggest you get an OS map to satisfy the general layout and topography. You or your architect can get that direct from OS for a reasonable fee, and then it is legit to use for location too. Perhaps a more detailed survey is needed at the house position, or perhaps not. You paying for a topo certainly helps the architect.

Sandtex works, and will look as you describe. Many paints will lift the leaves of wood apart, and it not only looks horrible but will make it even less waterproof. I know this from having to fireproof a big area of osb, and the intumescent paint stuck but caused the flaking. After experimentation, and in agreement with the BCO we used sandtex instead because it 1. didn't raise the grain, 2. doesn't burn. That was for internal use. For external, make sure that the product you choose is totally waterproof, not just resistant. I recall that brushing worked better than rolling, because it was more slopped on than 'worked in'.

Tongue and groove looks smart, and can be stained to retain or jazz up the appearance, or left to go grey as you choose. Gap behind between your fixing battens for ventilation, and vapour barrier on the osb. Planning?

It depends on the site, and if the building is simple or complex. If it a standard area with buildings already around, then it is likely that a local SE will be 90% sure of what to expect in the ground. They may only want to witness a hole being dug to a metre or so, to confirm their expectations. For no cost you can chat to a local Engineer and see if they agree, and what the cost would be. For an unknown or known problematic location, then deeper boreholes might be required. this is usually a primitive process with a tripod and dropping weight. once there, they can do several for the same sum. These can go quite deep if necessary and again the Engineer will advise what is wanted. Tests on the samples can be carried out in a lab, but that is often unnecessary.

Yes, but obviously you need contacts or references, and some contractors are taking advantage of the shortage of skills/ or suffering from it and pulling back until they can guarantee. performance again. Meanwhile there appears to be an abundance of architects and their like.

As Patel might say it. zero point half thousand five thousand kilowatts

There is no reason why you should not invite one or more designers and contractors to pitch for the project. You don't need to decide the way ahead until you have tested for someone you trust and can work with. In principle though. If you don't know what you want, then d and b is not usually the best way....the contractor does not want change any more than you do. If you don't think you have the skills to check quality then you need a consultant to supervise. D and B will more likely provide a better price, and a fixed one if you handle it correctly from the start. Make sure that they will have the design done by a consultant, not made up as they go along. The good ones will include all that. You will never, ever get a consultant to guarantee the finished price. The issues in Buildhub have probably as many issues with consultants as contractors. It is your choice. Without knowing you, or your project we cannot decide for you, only suggest. As a designer and contractor I can only say that either way can succeed or fail: choose someone good , not someone rubbish

I was a Design and Build specialist for many years, but not housing. There was no question that coming to us was the best solution, especially as we would decline anything that was not in our mainstream of knowledge. Engineer and Architect in-house). BUT other companies offered something similar, but weren't so good (a couple were close, but out of hundreds) So how do you know if they are any good? Go to an Architect or surveyor and they hate d and b as it is competition. So they will always say that corners will be cut, and expertise lacking....and to use them to design and engage contractors. Some Architects and arch'l technicians (who should not use the A) will do a good job. You should use them for fancy designs. Some will only do the planning and then the builder has to make it work. The costs should be 30% lower with d and b, all to the same standards. Therefore my answer is that d and b is best IF you can check them out on results. That means references, and not necessarily the ones they suggest. How to find the problem jobs? Perhaps check out Planning website and ask about the jobs they have not mentioned as references. Also needs you to monitor and question anything that doesn't seem right in the design and construction processes. They should not mind. On costs ..beware. Architects have a habit of underestimating the cost, and excluding their and other fees that will occur. Contractor more likely to include it all, but you need certainty.

Well, you know how on bridges the army are told to 'break step' to avoid a pulse building. Could you simply give an instruction to guests to vary rhythms. Could be called the rhythm method.

I'm back already. Forgot that it would be sensible to include a vehicle charger. Their form to fill in asks for manufacturers and models. For the ashp I can pick a Daikin 15kW and find a reference, unless you who know better want to advise. No idea re vehicle charger, and in any case it will be different in a year. They want not only the model, but a datasheet!!! But can you give me any tips to move this forward, just to get an estimate for 3 phase supply. btw, this is an old farm building, and I expected to see redundant 3phase switch gear, but no, there has only been single phase.

Yes that is simpler and better. Otherwise your water bar will have to be cast into base and wall. Easy enough but weakens the wall and seems unnecessary. Water goes the easy way. A nicely rough surface at the joint will help a lot too. Doesn't even need to be stuck. If it is held between the gravel and the concrete it will do..Not polyethene as it will react to light and fall apart. Assuming that this is all an external construction, not the wall of a building.

depends how often you have them.

oops? what new measurement of power is that?