saveasteading

Cement in a mortar mix needs water or it doesn't perform the chemical reaction that you absolutely need. There may have been enough water in the sand but that sounds rather approximate. If there was the perfect amount then the water will have disppeared chemically into the screed and therefore be absolutely dry already. if you were light on water then it wont be fully hard. All I can suggest is banging with a hammer and you will know if it is hard, or a bit on the soft side. If the former, and you really added no water and had a very dry mix, then your are probably good to go. If it is soft the spray with water and it should harden up.

1. I had not heard of Nibe. I take it you approve of them. 2. Had another look at out existing supply and see a spare wire. So we have a 4 strand cable, with 3 connected and one folded back. Is this possibly an existing 3 phase supply, just not connected?

No not really. In fact the mix should be kept damp for a few days to harden properly, with the chemical reaction before drying. Leave it as long as you can before laying flooring, and I would say 2 weeks minimum. Air through is good, so leave windows open in daytime.

25mm can dry quickly, but depends on the conditions, (especially if it was a dry mix., as a lot of the water disappears in chemical reaction) . How warm and dry is it?

Comments are tending towards a 'wow' buiding rather than a buildable one. Perhaps meet your designer and ask if building regs are addressed yet. Some architects are more artist than practical, and leave someone else to make it work

In case anyone is interested, i assessed in order of best value: (Brick finish walls, mansard and flat roof.) Modular timber Structural steel Modular steel Trad masonry and timber Modular timber/sips Polystyrene system

As steel was my thing for some decades, I agree. But I analysed a building not unlike this, but 3 times the size and chose to go with modular timber, just. That is my hunch for this too. Steel is not best suited to angles and curves. Steel beams and perhaps columns will still be needed for this if in timber Beware modular timber suppliers quotng "excluding all steels".

It seems to me that architects and planners have been sold that green roofs are great. They don't pay for or build or maintain them. In my opinion, sedums have their places...some city centres, but mostly peat bogs.

And as a kitchen is a primary source of fire, perhaps not a great idea. Are there other exits...i have not looked.

Excellent. A picture helps so much. IF your buiding is anything like our project then these bigger boulders are the base. They are bigger at the base but also wider to spread tbe load, and can becespecially wide at openings. They will be sitting on original ground, or on a bed of sand or sand with lime.. Therefore not to be touched on any account. Tales abound of walls falling down when floors are taken out for headroom. I have picked up a detail from the blog of a conversion in Aberdeenshire, to fix a 1m skin of bitumen roll to the bottom of the wall, even if above ground. We will lap this with the dpm, but can you do that? Otherwise there is still a gap fof the water to come in.

£3k or more and not pretty.

Cosg of angle. As well as the steel beam itself, there is encasement and insulation of it, and the overhang itself needs detailing for being external...insulation and weatherproofing. A £5k detail at a guess, which might be worth it. I am not considering aesthetics and layout. Green roof. NOHHHHHHHH. Architect playing with your money. £5k again. Adds 30kg/m2 to the roof loading. Needs maintenance..removing dead stuff and replacing, and for that consider accesx and safety. Special roof membrane and lots of detail. And for what? Have a barrel instead.

Yes, but the main thing is probably to shed rain. Can't say much more without a site visit which i am not doing.

It is not a bad sign. Neighbours objections tend to be spurious, or raising what the planner would anyway. So it is one little hurdle, and at least means the neighbours dont hate you. The planner won't have looked at it yet but should speak to your architect if any issues...silence is usually promising.

Sorry, I was not clear. A thick layer of concrete under the paving slabs will keep the paving solid and impermeable.

Last thought? List why you should keep them on, against why you 'let them go'. My feeling is that the numbers may be similar but the 'keep' ones won't be as significant as the 'go' ones. Eg. Will this happen again, do they know what they are doing and what if it falls down when they pour the concrete? No more pay until sure you have not overpaid already.

Sump pump works but better to keep the water out. A thick layer under the paving is good but might be taking the surface too high up the wall...does the paving slope away? If not a photo, a sketch would help.

If money is no object then carry on and sort the details later. Otherwise i agree that some details could be looked at for buildability. Your designer may have considered this, but more likely assumes someone else will make it work. For example, diagonal wall oversailing rectangular shape below. Flat roof....downpipes inside your rooms.At least ask your designer about rainwater.

Have you contacted Nudura? The market is v competitive and reputation is crucial. Perhaps they can help to: Review your contractor's progress and advise them to get on with it or you to sack them. Review them with consideration to taking off the list Suggest another contractor and be intermediary...nobody likes picking up half a job but nudura could explain. I have never used any of these systems, but have taken a close interest. I dont think it is difficult, but your contractor does. Monthly. One way to chase a little contractor off. And how much work have they yet to do? I was assuming you were nearly there...sounds not.

Whether justified or not, they can probably claim 'covid' as a reason for delay, and that standard applications take priority. Non determination plea will get expensive.

Estimating the cost of construction is very difficult, and a special (and underrated) skill, and it is easy to miss out an item or underestimate the difficulty. But add contingencies and you are not cheapest and lose the job. This may be genuine, in which case lucky they didn't disapppear at last payment. On the other hand there are chancers. We here cannot judge.

There is a danger of making what is really complex sound simple. As every project is a one-off there are infinite variations. There have been correspondents on here who think it is easy, and will cherry pick the bits that suit, while not seeing the consequences...and the building may fall down. It is for none of us to take work away from experts. So i agree, simple blogs on terminolgy , function, principles. Not "you dont need an expert, just read our blogs and diy"

Worth having a grown up chat with the builder, away from other workers. Ask what is the problem really, and see if a slight increase will suffice. He may come clean that eg his workers want more or will walk. But if he goes into take it or leave it mode, best let him go, as it will happen again.and again.

I don't think the loss of end cover woild matter. The slab should all be within dpm so won't ever get wet. The 50mm mostly makes it convenient to place.

Never heard of this 10% thing and cannot see any logic to it unless it includes offloading and handling and they do not charge their time. For supplying themselves 10% is low unless wastage is your cost.