saveasteading

I can't see any reason for a treatment tank to be so far away (soakaway, yes as it could undermine the foundations), so would be worth negotiating if it was too tight.

It is difficult. There are programs to calculate it, but it is basically, simply the iteration of different rainfall possibilities against outflow, and how much is left to store. If you can handle the logic then you can do it yourself. If not then you may not get the right answer by buying a program. You will probably end up buying the exensive crates anyway, so might as well get their free design, with the benefit that bco will accept it. You can sometimes save by reducing the crates volume by using natural storage, eg ponds, swales, even barrels.

Stuff the stub ends with old polythene bags and wrap another tight over the end. Tie a bright coloured rope to the end of the pipe (the cheap blue stuff is ideal) and lead it to the surface with a fair amount of spare. Tie the rope to a peg, but even if the peg comes out the pipe end is findable, clean and not filled with muck. Yes, first if you can, if you have a proper design, but perhaps not if it is going to driven over a lot or another service will cut across it. Or not if there is any doubt on where drains will exit the building. Because it doesn't take much error for a digger to damage the building.

I can only give my experience, but is based on multiple large concrete floors with floor coverings. Flooring contractors nearly always said that their tests showed excess moisture and they would not lay without an extra for a sealing layer. I resisted this because of 1. cost (which was silly high for a coat of cheap sealer). 2. we would be trapping water in the floor for ever. 3 I didn't always believe them. After a couple of weeks more severe ventilation (just doors and windows open at opposite sides) we tested it ourselves if in any doubt, signed a form saying we accepted responsibility, and instructed the floors to go down. There was never a problem. These floor were 150 to 200mm concrete on polythene, and had been laid for 8 to 10 weeks. Therefore these dry out more slowly than thinner screeds. I can't comment on your circumstances of course but with timber flooring it must be drier, so patience is required, but sealing...perhaps not. It is vital to do as the manufacturers say about acclimatising, as I learnt to my cost with home parquet. although on old, dry concrete, it first expanded and then shrunk, leaving gaps. I suggest you live without the flooring for quite a while with the heating and heat recovery working.

Thinks...Porcelain is chalk, which is lime, which is alkaline.. so yes. Absolutely. but still wipe off after doing it.

We could get a lot that way.

Congratulations joe90 for providing my 400th 'like'. There is no prize for me or you, other than the satisfaction of knowing we are helping people, and learning a bit as we go.

If the tiles are real marble then bleach is the right thing as it will kill any live stuff but not attack the tiles. ie don't use brick/grout cleaner (acid). Then let us know the outcome.

Thanks for that link, it is a splendid achievement and an interesting situation re planning. If it lifts with a theoretical crane, is it heavy enough to sit tight in a gale? For that size of building, the steep roof and the void under, there could be a lot of uplift. Not likely to blow away but could move on the plinths. I think I would provide ties down to the footings, just in case.

It could just be dust from the building works. Plaster/bricks / clay tiles are that colour, and it shows on grout. There shouldn't be any mould on new and dry work. Clean off and see what happens.

Not necessarily mould. Has the shower been used at all? Is the staining close to the shower or everywhere?

Simple but clever. Electrician's tape would fall off in time, cable ties won't, and will hold the insulation on.

I didn't know such a product existed, and would be interested to hear what the advantages are. Doesn't fly away while awaiting battens to hold it down might be one. How do they combine the vapour transmitting properties with an adhesive backing...that sounds clever but expensive.

On our second delonghi Magnifica. the first lasted 5 years , this one 4 so far. Very simple to use. So much better than the identical beans pre-ground, which I bought once by mistake. It amazes me that it does what it does, when I push one button.

Thanks Nickfromwales. I was up in the attic of our house (not the project) and noticed how the pipe lagging was barely encircling the pipes, and had gaps between lenghths, so it has shrunk both directions over many years. It was probably the cheapest make going, and I am thinking it best to buy branded in future. Gluing must help, and straping as you suggest. Thanks for the info that the lagging slides on un-slit: I had imagined it being tight.

Thanks. in this situation it will be indoors in the constant dark.

That is a lot of information. Basically it comes un-slit for sliding onto new pipes and slit (but with pre-glued edges) for retrofit. and there is glue for joints and ends. I like it.

= selling price. Presumably not exactly that or we wouldn't have the acronym. I am expecting there to be a stunning view of the Surrey countryside: Rolling hills, oak woodlands. golf courses and private schools. in which case it will be worth the cost.

Yes I found it. I have used normal stuff outside, not knowing of this, and it fails in sunlight. As this would be in a dark void indoors, is Climaflex or Armaflex class O equally good. I see it is 'unsplit', which makes insulation sense, but does that make it difficult to put on the pipe?

Perhaps....but this doesn't look too bad at first sight. There are lots of cross walls to pick up the roof.

Yes, cost is secondary to bling, but if that is what is wanted it isn't too tricky. Beware: steel beams are the answer, but I have found that timber frame companies simply ignore them, but say so. So the issues are costing £5k. Delete the pretend chimney and half way there. I couldn't read it on the drawing but are the big windows all three sliding? or just the central one. That costs a lot but not within a million pound project.

A local SE will be 90% confident of what will be there, and advise on whether a complex survey is required or a few holes which he can inspect.

Clever thought, and tidy. But I am reluctant to feed this full temperature pipe within the PIR at the reduced cover that would ensue. I thought of simply putting them in the ground-floor screed but am feeling that the floor is full enough of feed pipes and distribution pipes.

That is a very good start, and you will get help here, but you probably need a biggish general builder or a PM.

Pressure already/ More money as a plumber or bricky, as I was always telling teenagers at careers days. Roe Timber from Margate. perhaps yours is too small but worth asking. You can just send a full disclosure enquiry to them....own project, here are the drawings, architect not retained, is it of interest?