saveasteading

To give us more background, what age is the house? Can you see if the floorboards run towards or parallel to the party wall?

On the balance of 2 tiny wheels and some bricks under the corners, it is a caravan avoiding needing permission to be a house. Or to ProDave's info, slingable , but nearly always where a house would not be permitted.

If it is still on its tiny wheels then it is still a caravan, I would think. If it has been taken off its wheels then it ceased to be a 'mobile home' and was in breach of planning. I cant see any justification for allowing this other than a planning officer's whim, or oversight.

It has to be ducted with their approved spec. of pipe. Also nice straight lines with proper draw points and draw cord in place. This sounds pedantic but I have seen cables getting stuck so it matters to them. I would think you will have to agree the route beforehand too. If there is some tension in this scenario then you must do your bit exactly right.

I would first try a blanket over and around the noisy box. If that works at all, make it prettier and use some soft absorbent material and some dense. Of course check that this won't set it on fire/close off vents etc. Perhaps a solid box around it, lined with foam and stuffed with rockwool. Plus check whether the noise is coming from vibration (which can be fixed) or inbuilt in the mechanism.

Do you know if this is a routine question or if there is a known risk at the location? Presumably you have looked at flood risk maps already and asked around locally. Before committing to site or to a full report it is always worth checking if the site or area has a flood risk in principle. The risk assessment is routine for an Engineer experienced in the subject, so make sure you get a good one. Have you tried looking up other applications in your area? They may have published the flood risk report and so you will see what is involved and get some names to try.

Thanks for this. I thought it was compulsory. Just good practice but Howdens don't bother it seems. I guess the BCO can ask too see the delivery schedule, but can't lift it too see if heavy. Not a problem with self-builders doing things right , but I will now worry about some commercial situations.

But aren't you paying for sewage based on an artificially small measure of mains supply?

Fire rated doors should have a coloured inset plug. That way the BCO can easily check it if there is any doubt. Re complex regulations. I find it best to do an old-fashioned printout of the relevant pages, go into a quiet room, magic marker the clauses that appear to be relevant and draw arrows between them. Once the logic is sorted, keep the notes for when you inevitably forget it all. This works especially well if 'discussing' with a BCO.

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I think it is sometimes best to be anonymous. Who knows who is reading this, and you might want to discuss builders/suppliers/consultants and, dare I say, local authority? I don't give my name and the location is vague: enough to provide context but not where it is. I'm sure it would not take much detective work to find more, but it avoids chance discovery on google. So if I was you I would start again as 'made-up-name' , Argyll. But that is entirely up to you, and others may disagree

I am thinking that is a reality of a window in an original stone wall. Otherwise the window has to be inset and the reveals will get wet. So it is a compromise, and a weakness in the envelope. But is there any solution? In the context of the whole building, perhaps the heat-loss through the inner skin to foam, to stone is no worse than through the thermal breaks themselves, which are just short lengths of plastic.

You are in the right place: that is the attitude of most on here. Welcome. Get these questions coming in, but also look back using the search function.

Good points, both. Only saves money if it saves water piped in. If you have a rainwater harvester your sewage bill becomes very small though, even if all your waste water heads that way.

Bathwater is good for the garden.

For my own (and family) house I will always now use Aquapanel or Hardybacker. As an amateur it was very good to work with (both fixing it and tiling) , plus I know there is a waterproof layer if the grout or silicon fails. I found Hardybacker easier to work with, than Aquapanel.

Can someone explain the following please, from a Vaillant specification? Is there an optional setting for 35/45/55 C? or does it change automatically as necessary? from the A+++ to A++ variation I assume that the system works better at the lower temperature, but can be increased to suit circumstances. I expect there is a big difference in running cost between A+++ and A++. SCOP of up to 5.03 sounds good but "up to" makes it a bit meaningless. And what is that 'F' about? Energy efficiency class 35°C (A+++ to F) A+++ Energy efficiency class 55°C (A+++ to F) A++ https://www.vaillant.co.uk/specifiers/products/arotherm-plus-heat-pump-74048.html

In theory I like panels, but the cutting of openings is scary, which it isn't with tiles. Measure 5 times, get a second opinion, cut once. If wrong then it is an expensive mistake. With tiles there may be many tiles to cut for the pipe holes but the measuring is easy and the risk is low. Or is it not so bad for panels? I have only done it once for a kitchen back-board with multiple sockets to cut, and 'got away with it'. We have lots to do so I'd prefer panels if convinced. What is best for backing?

As heard often in 'The Killing', along with 'komm hier noo bairn' (excuse spelling) which made me realise that Scots is largely Scandinavian.

Please explain this. The cavity wall has a dpc at the base and should be closed at the top too. Any vents are gaps in the mortar, which covering would close off. I appreciate that a wide cavity allows air to circulate due to thermal differences but it stays in the cavity. A cavity wall has much better insulation than a solid wall. On top of this, an external masonry wall loses heat through wetting and evaporation, which will not be the case when clad.

No, but there might be details such as canopy/porch. The sills will disappear and need replacing. The over-clad may clash with the gutter, which they can't simply move outwards as the tiles won't reach. And some other things I haven't thought of.

Some Architects are basically artists who prefer shape and form and novelty to any thought of structure and keeping the weather out. I know that universities encourage novelty and even teach the students to 'not worry about how it is built. Leave that to the Engineers', which is not only ignorant but also arrogant. Fortunately a decent proportion of those that come out the other end are already, or become, practical and valuable professionals. If I had to find an architect or Architect then I would depend on references, both in looking for a shortlist and checking up on them after interview. Tough questions about what is included and very tough questions on keeping to budget. Insist on some previous clients who you can speak to. Of course they will push the happy ones, so somehow you need to find any others: perhaps a list from which you choose who to contact. Did it go alright, and did it come in on budget?

I wouldn't. The air is helping and any infill would have to be pumped polystyrene beads or cellulose (which concerns me a bit). Cavity wall with 50 insulation and 50 air, and the 100 of outer insulation is pretty good. Retain the air bricks if you have a suspended floor. Insulation no use below the floor level, so stops off as on Nod's pics. 100 is a lot to stick on the outer face, so the windows/gutters geometry etc need looking at to check this all works.

That would count against you as presumably you have built at low cost. I would hope it was accepted to allow for your own labour as a 'cost'. if disputed perhaps a valuation of what it would have been worth at the time? But all that assumes reasonableness and logic from HMRC which is not always the way..

I think it simply keeps bubbling away without problems. Might be different if not used at all for a prolonged period. On the other extreme, an overused tank will spill nasty stuff out to soon, so is much worse. The mix of contents also makes a big difference as the tanks are designed for a normal balance of urine, faeces and waste water. This shouldn't ever be an issue in a house, unless lots of water is sent there for obscure reasons (or connecting a rainwater pipe). It does matter for other types of buildings where use is different....eg a sports hall / gym has more urine and water, which doesn't favour the bugs, so it needs monitoring. Airports have the opposite issue apparently.

The original question was effectively 'is this pointless when I have an air gap and air bricks?' The air bricks are there to ventilate under a suspended floor, so should stay uncovered IF you still have a suspended floor. The 50mm air gap is to stop dampness moving from outer skin to inner. It also assists the thermal insulation considerably. There is no appreciable air movement within the air gap, although you wouldn't design a new house this way. It can remain and does not preclude extra insulation outside. As to how to do it, I defer to Nod.