saveasteading

these photos didn't come through, not to me anyway. As TBC says, Read. Read buildhub and search back to older discussions as most of it is on here somewhere. Read up about other projects near you, and look over their hedges. Read the Building Regulations...(in stages) : builders mostly don't. I have been in construction 45 years and am learning from BH and as the project proceeds. Every project is different.

I must have been lucky then, or have quality windows. But noted that the conditions may state to lubricate frequently.

A lot are available online, although it may need a variety of search terms to find them. I suggest looking at every one even if it looks vague, the wrong subject matter or of the wrong era, because they sometimes link in to other versions. Also zoom in as they may change map completely in the process, or have a timeline. For example a geological map may morph into a general local map. Plus Google Earth has a timeline, with the oldest maps being wartime reconnaissance photos overlaid on the map.

Have anyone's windows failed or stuck or become squeaky inside 5 years? 10 years? Maintenance is good, but there seems to be something wrong when this happens with new windows.

if it stinks it will do. but water it down a lot for use.

So the floor is going in. The second half of the sub-floor area of concrete was done diy by family and friends, using fibre reinforced concrete. A great success, and who needs groundworkers, as long as you have one skilled person and 4 barrows with 4 helpers? 150mm of insulation is next. Planning on 2 layers, 100 over 50, thanks to the very helpful older discussions. as it is slightly cheaper, allows laps, and also better for cutting in isolated pipes and ducts. Then there will be 50mm Cemfloor with UFH. Maybe use 50EPS for the bottom as it will save about £1,000 and there is a diminishing return as it gets thicker. On the other hand, for a big order perhaps PIR will reduce in price enough. Any suggestions as to buying from the national specialist merchants, local merchants or the online companies? I think someone said that PIR only comes via merchants but EPS can come from manufacturers. Total area is 270m2, so pretty well a small lorry load. Perhaps that can come straight from the manufacturer and save double handling by the merchant that takes an easy fee. FYI online prices are, per single sheet, PIR 50mm £22 or EPS £11 100mm £39 150.. £62 (and sometimes 125mm is dearer than 150.)

it is all explained here too. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf

You can do this. Calculating the percolation rate requires a spade for a small hole, a bucket and a watch. It is not worth fiddling the results as it is you who will have stinky ground. read here and come back with any queries. https://www.jdpipes.co.uk/knowledge/sewage-treatment/how-to-perform-a-percolation-test.html then write it up on a posh table to inspire confidence.

Better than a ladder, but only if it is sitting flat on the floor, not up steps.

First impressions as others. an are of ceiling has been replaced using 2 boards. Why the joints should appear is not clear, and worth looking for clues, as Gus suggestions. My guess is that the joints are not fixed over joists, or enough. The worry would be if the repair was done for a reason that has recurred. The best outcome is that it needs more screws into the joists, and perhaps noggins the other direction.

I used actual Wago on a lighting circuit and called in the electrician to connect to a suspect 2 way switch, and to certify it. He stripped all the Wagos off and fitted boxes. I had done all the complex feeds through floors and ceilings (builder's work and thinking) so it was still worth it. Electricians had quoted stupid money for surface mounting. He wouldn't say why they wouldn't leave on the Wagos. I guess they would have wanted to check all my connections, and then they used their preferred methods. Or is there a fundamental worry about wires popping out?

Cemfloor say Pouring between 40mm and 50mm of liquid floor screed for underfloor heating is optimal. The diameter of the heating pipe is included in this depth. We are going for 50 as 40 doesn't allow much tolerance for any wobbles.

I got a smaller version of that in a diy store but it looks the same. Not to be confused with a professional version made with tubes. Even standing at 2m it feels very wobbly, but is better than a ladder for a longer job. I took to climbing to it on a step ladder rather than through the hatch. Also it is bolted together so is a performance unless you can keep it erected. And the bolts need checking every time. For that high version, I think I would want to tied it to the wall. For the right diy job, and with care, it could be ok.

Is it a groundbearing floor or suspended? Pipe along the skirting? Doesn't have to be round. 60mm dia for a 5kW burner if I recall and prorata mm2 for smaller or bigger.

The subject is in my expertise, but it is complex. Would need to know what you have proposed. Using a crate manufacturer can save having to use a consultant, but you know the answer will be lots of crates. My interest has generally been to avoid lots of crates using other solutions. Even then, there may be other considerations eg soakaway location and design. The query re drainage field etc doesn't seem to make complete sense....I think bco trying to be helpful but getting in a muddle re terms. As ProDave says....have you a percolation test? What are your results? With more info perhaps we can help.

I think they remain decent value for their standard models, which are designed for maximum efficiency, don't need redesigning and have negligible risk. Then add transport, hoisting and then overhead and profit for a business in a factory. Stick built has timber straight to site at best price, and the joiner working for you (or the main contractor) not for the factory. But there may be design costs, more can go wrong, and it takes longer on site.

Got one 3 weeks ago when it was £299. NB they charge for delivery, non-optional, no collection from a shop.... NB2 not available in Highlands postcodes , regardless if this is Inverness, where there is an Aldi, or Rockall. there is more to this story: perhaps later. It has had a hard 2 weeks. If anything it is a bit narrow, but the same machine seems to be at TS for twice the price.

No. That is a very good thing and gets you a lot more heat as well as reducing ash. I meant a specific air feed from outside to the back of, or even connected to, the stove. Search for 'wood burner external air feed'

No. And contractors who make up stories like this are perhaps not very good at what they do. Anybody can buy and fit a window. Not everyone can do it well. Keep on at them because once they are gone, these are your windows to live with.

Makes sense. You mean disconnect your temporary supply back to the way it was once finished with? I have been tempted in the past to save money by simply connecting cables through, but it is worth putting in a kiosk for safety and control. It also means you can turn off your power without access to the source. BUT if you are going to need a new electric supply then I recommend getting that in ASAP, again to a kiosk. This is normal and acceptable to the electric company. All designed and connected by a certificated electrician.

Which includes that allowing more houses brings in immediate cash from central government ( a lot of cash), as well as the later rates. And that the senior councillors can expect to be patted on the head and given gongs by their masters.

I wouldn't touch it until you see what happens over the winter. The ground is exceptionally dry and so there may be shrinkage and this sort of thing happens. In the winter the ground may recover, and it would be a shame if the crack was filled and it could not move back to shape. Anyway nothing to worry about. How wide would you say the crack is, in mm or the traditional measure, coin thickness?

Excellent . One of them poss slightly bigger than optimum. Do they have a 'runner' fibre along the length that has to be removed. or do they snap clean in two? Better picked and discarded than allowed to grow mature, as the plant will make seeds instead of feeding you. Until the last few anyway, when you leave them and collect next years seeds.

Stores are very vulnerable to theft. At least a container on site is in sight ( if you are staying on site), and will be covered by the project insurance. But it is pretty obvious to thieves, what will be in there. They get very hot or cold seasonally. Don't hire. Buy a clapped out one from a hire company, that is just too bad too rent out again, but you could live with. Then you have to get rid at the end, but poss to someone with a similar need. For storing kitchens and windows etc, I think it must be very short term....most outlets will work to your agenda. Absolutely.

We have chosen Russwood, or rather the family have. From what I gather, they are selective of the timber quality, so I am hoping to see far fewer knots, twists and wide grain than might come with a pile of every plank out of a tree trunk. Also, this is for only 50m2, so the cash cost is not horrendous.