ProDave

Just a rough outline of where the house would go. ARM application went to public consultation just like any other but this time with full details.

Approval of Reserved Matters was correct, that is exactly what we did following outline permission.

Ask them to quote you the exact wording of the policy that limits the side extension to 3.1 metres. While waiting for an answer have a walk around your area and find any side extension >3.1 metres that has been allowed and see if you can track down it's planning application.

Get a formal application in. Then you will get a grown up on the job who knows what they are talking about.

Are you sure? Using the spirit stove on our boat at the weekend, with the main hatch shut but front hatch open a crack and rear ventilator open. it set off the CO alarm. I am happier that the WBS at home takes it's air directly from outside and all the products of combustion go up the flue, not into the house.

+1 Something does not sound right at all.

If you have limits on your local transformer and are concerned they may make you pay for an upgrade, ask them what IS available without upgrade. In my case i was offered a 12KVA supply which has proved totally adequate. More realistic appliance estimates Fan oven 2kW ALL lights on in the house at the same time 175W (all LED) 5kW heat pump max 2kW electricity consumption Immersion heater 3kW rarely used but auutomatically soaks up surplus solar PV Washing machine 3kW only when heating water, much lower at other times. No bit appliances like electric showers so it is easy to see why 12KVA is enough for us.

Had them in several rentals and now in the present house, never had a problem as long as you use a GOOD make. Mine are all multipanel. I was at a rental the other day where the top coating was starting to flake off, I don't know what make they were unfortunately so I can't tell you which to avoid.

While you are at it, create an access hatch to each eaves space, e.g. a removeable back to your built in bookcase.

We had a raised deck and wind out canopy from the wall at our previous house, installed there 20 years ago without PP. I guess I just "got away with it"? So if your deck and canopy were a few mm gap between it and the house, and it complied with the permitted development rules for a garden building would it comply? Unless you have vindictive nosy neighbours I would just do it and take the flack if any came.

11 metres end to end of the house, but not herringone, just wide planks.

Our engineered woof floor runs continuously through kitchen / dining, hallway, and living room with expansion gaps all the way round under skirting as one continuous run. In the hall it abuts the tiled entrance area with a flush tight fit with no problems.

That's not a "shower tray" it's a wet room. So the shower area will have some type of former to give it the slope to the drain built into the floor then the tiles are applied. There will (should) be some form of tanking under the tiles and at least part way up the walls. Usually the whole room is done as a wet room, not just the shower area. So some water getting outside the shower area is not an issue. We use a squeegee on a pole to sweep up any escaped water afterwards. Some will inevitably splash off you as you shower, there is nothing you can do about that. But if the shower area is filling up and you are standing in a puddle as you shower, then the shower drain / trap needs clearing out. It should be a top access trap, start by lifting the grid off the top of the drain and investigate.

Reminds me of an incident when we still had a buy to let property. There was a leak in the roof, so I had a quickstage tower up to the roof and my roof ladder hooked over the roof for the repair. I left the house for the evening, taking with me the ladder that gave access to the scaffold. When I returned the next day, the roof ladder was not on the roof, but leaning against the scaffold. How did it get there. Then I noticed the white paint on it. It did not take much detective work to see the house a few doors down being painted. They thought it was okay to borrow it and then not even put it back on the roof and not bother to keep it clean. There are some cheeky b******s about.

It just looks unfinished to me. Some plasterboard and plaster skim would finish it off nicely. And plaster that bare blockwork wall while you are at it.

There have been cases on here where if you stand on the footpath and reach out with your arm and cannot touch the fence then it is deemed not to be "adjacent" but it is very subjective. Try re submitting with the fence 1 metre from the footpath, and see what they say, argue you are moved it back so it is no longer "adjacent" and you have left an open strip of land.

If the builder only cares that you satisfy the planners, then ask your planner what their definition of "adjacent" to the highway is? They may let you have a fence a bit closer to the highway, still with an open area adjacent to it and be able to fence off part of your garden. That would be a good compromise.

The planning officer is right, that is what the guidelines say, no fence above 1M adjacent to the highway without PP. You could move the fence back 1 metre, then it is not "adjacent" but that is very subjective and not defined. Or put the fence back where it was, plant a nice hedge on the boundary wait for it to grow and let the fence fall down. I have a BIL in a similar sort of house where only a fraction of the garden was originally enclosed. He now has a large garden enclosed by a Beech hedge on the boundary.

A fixed mezanine at one end with a sleeping platform. Difficult getting these to comply with BR's so might be something to add after completion?

What is the question? Picture close up of CU with flap open might answer more questions, but if it is modern enough to keep, your 2 options are make the studwork deep enough to come forward of the CU and put a door to access it, or make the studwork much less deep and make the existing CU flush mounted where it is But that all changes if it needs replacing.

I ran multiple cat5 to each tv point and at least one to each room, most were not terminated, just left in the service void where I can fish them out and connect them if a need arrises. One in the small bedroom got used for a while when it was a temporary office and one is now in use in my new office for the desktop pc. The rest of them remain in the service void waiting for a use. But you could guarantee if I had not fitted them, I would want them.

First build (21 years ago now) static caravan with a WM squeezed in inside, and an adjacent shed for the tumble dryer and storage Second build, we did not move into the caravan until the house shell was built, so a WC and laundry was set up in the house shell plus an office space and plenty of storage.

Top tip to any reader. Throw away the rubbish plastic plugs supplied with most things, curtain rods, light fittings, in fact anything intended to be fixed to brick, throw away the total rubbish usually supplied and use a good make of rawl plug instead. And unless the screw head is going to be on show and is "nice" throw away the rubbish screws usually supplied, with heads that chew up easily, and use decent screws. The rubbish fittings often supplied to save a few pence astounds me.

So in my case once the small cylinder has exhausted it would just supply hot water being heated by a 5kW heater. Well I find a 7.5kW shower pathetic, a 5kW one would be a dribble. So only begins to be viable with a 12kW or more ASHP?

Except in Scotland you are supposed to get a building warrant before you start and that plus the actual purchase could easily take more than 6 months. In our case though we registered "started" with the planners just by constructing the entrance from the highway onto the plot that did not need building control. Condition 1 of our planning said that must be the first thing done to prevent vehicles parking on the road before any other construction started.