ProDave

Do some careful and accurate measuring to locate EXACTLY the opposite side of that wall. It might be the lesser of 2 evils is then cut a section of plasterboard out of that wall to give you access. Much easier to replace the plasterboard and fill the gaps than replace a tile. Or better still create a proper access hatch.

Just because something is all you can afford, does not mean you like it. I hated my first house, it was a tiny developer box with a tiny garden on an estate in a location with a poor reputation. But it was all I could afford. It served a purpose and it was 3 years before I was able to move up to something better, but moving to something better was always the plan. Thankfully there are enough people happy with estate living to make it work

In the mean time, if the do move the car, immediately park YOUR car there.

No reason why not, but I would not. I would just run cables to the ones you can with a spur running off ready for the next stage, long enough to reach it's eventual destination and terminated so it is safe until you are ready for the next phase of the job.

I am wanting to buy timber for decking and my car port. Is the consensus I should wait as long as possible for prices to drop a bit more? Our local saw mill is now next to useless, i don't think they actually saw anything any more.

Then the installer needs shooting. There should be some kind of access panel, Nothing from behind in say a cupboard?

Add some more £££££ for dealing with those electricity cables.

That plinth looks like a problem waiting to happen. Huge potential for a small imperfection to allow water into the cavity there.

Has a rear extension been built and the end of the extension roof is now sitting on the reiforced bit?

Thankfully the majority of people consider living in a housing estate box with a small garden and lots of neighbours in close proximity and insufficiant parking to be "normal" and all they aspire to. Right from an early age that was not what I wanted and I am finally living where I want in theo cuntryside.

We are happy with 20C in the living rooms but prefer about 18 in a bedroom, which is why the bedroom window spends a lot of time open. The BIG difference with a passive or passive principle house is the internal temperature never changes quickly. So forget the old concept of heating on when you are in the house and heating off (and let the house cool down) when you are out at work. It simply won't cool down any meaningful amount.

Unless it's high off the ground, which you don't want, you can give the joists as many intermediate supports as you like, and 4*2 would do nicely.

I take it that existing brown pipe through under the wall and it's rest bend are old (you say it's a renovation) so not a case of someone making a mistake but trying to find the best way to work with what was there.

Is the boss actually above or below floor level? Can't tell from a picture looking down.

So it is a split unit. How do you know the noise is originating from outside unit?

What about the actual branch connector, there is usually a boss on the side of those. Photo?

Is there not a branch where the vertical grey pipe and the sloping brown pipe from the WC meet that you can connect into below the floor further to the left?

But a 100 square metre building will need some heating, unless you never plan to use it in the winter. So why not use the heat pump you have? What else are you going to use?

Post an anonymised satellite view to aid the discussion?

Hi and welcome. You took a long time to find us, we have been going many years now.

The fuse, which by it's nature is a bit of resistance wire, will also have got hot and looks to be the culprit. Feed it directly from a 20A double pole switch, not a fused switch unit or you will just be moving the next failure to the FCU.

Surely though if installing mvhr to a non airtight house, you would at least block up all the old original individual vents for the multitude of individual fans, and block up or keep closed the window trickle vents, so you are down to just the leaks in the building fabric rather than all the previous deliberately made great big holes in the building. And while you are at it block up the letter box and cat flap.

Same as with a tiled roof. Counter battens then battens over the membrane and fix your wriggly tin sheets to the battens.

Done

But I would not change the agreed layout without first discussing it with the customer.