ProDave

The planning officer is right, that is what the guidelines say, no fence above 1M adjacent to the highway without PP. You could move the fence back 1 metre, then it is not "adjacent" but that is very subjective and not defined. Or put the fence back where it was, plant a nice hedge on the boundary wait for it to grow and let the fence fall down. I have a BIL in a similar sort of house where only a fraction of the garden was originally enclosed. He now has a large garden enclosed by a Beech hedge on the boundary.

A fixed mezanine at one end with a sleeping platform. Difficult getting these to comply with BR's so might be something to add after completion?

What is the question? Picture close up of CU with flap open might answer more questions, but if it is modern enough to keep, your 2 options are make the studwork deep enough to come forward of the CU and put a door to access it, or make the studwork much less deep and make the existing CU flush mounted where it is But that all changes if it needs replacing.

I ran multiple cat5 to each tv point and at least one to each room, most were not terminated, just left in the service void where I can fish them out and connect them if a need arrises. One in the small bedroom got used for a while when it was a temporary office and one is now in use in my new office for the desktop pc. The rest of them remain in the service void waiting for a use. But you could guarantee if I had not fitted them, I would want them.

First build (21 years ago now) static caravan with a WM squeezed in inside, and an adjacent shed for the tumble dryer and storage Second build, we did not move into the caravan until the house shell was built, so a WC and laundry was set up in the house shell plus an office space and plenty of storage.

Top tip to any reader. Throw away the rubbish plastic plugs supplied with most things, curtain rods, light fittings, in fact anything intended to be fixed to brick, throw away the total rubbish usually supplied and use a good make of rawl plug instead. And unless the screw head is going to be on show and is "nice" throw away the rubbish screws usually supplied, with heads that chew up easily, and use decent screws. The rubbish fittings often supplied to save a few pence astounds me.

So in my case once the small cylinder has exhausted it would just supply hot water being heated by a 5kW heater. Well I find a 7.5kW shower pathetic, a 5kW one would be a dribble. So only begins to be viable with a 12kW or more ASHP?

Except in Scotland you are supposed to get a building warrant before you start and that plus the actual purchase could easily take more than 6 months. In our case though we registered "started" with the planners just by constructing the entrance from the highway onto the plot that did not need building control. Condition 1 of our planning said that must be the first thing done to prevent vehicles parking on the road before any other construction started.

Just re measured. My top hung Rationel the 1400mm is just the dimension of the opening sash. the window including the frame is 1500 tall. Rationel do top hung and top swung. I forget which is which but one just hinges at the top, the other is hung on side slides that allow the window to slide down and reverse for cleaning the outer pane from the inside.

Where to live? If your plot is big enough and you can stand some hardship, a static caravan on site is the cheapest.

Rationel supplied 1400mm tall top hung for us, so worth asking if they can go the extra 100mm?

Not much point asking for a particular recommendation. Look at the market where you are and choose the best you can. We actually chose ours not because it was good, but because the internal layout was unusual and suited the plot and it's continued use after the house was complete. All the ones available here are ex holiday static caravans, if you have the choice and ex residential park home might be better, but they tend to stay on site longer and get repaired and upgraded and continue in use, compared to holiday statics that often have to be removed from the holiday site when X years old.

2 comments, hope they are not harsh, but whoever put that roof on did a poor job imho. Firstly none of the fixings are in line, that shows a lack of care. Secondly, I always fix that sort of roof on the ridges. Little water flows down the ridges, it falls into the flat valleys and runs down there, so you don't really want fixings in the flat valleys where there is more water and more chance to leak. Agreed the one photographed close up does not look very tight.

Fischer are a company well known for selling very expensive panel heaters claiming they are more efficient than any other panel heater (impossible) They are now selling re badged sun amps. Many members on this forum have had reliability issues with sun amps ans some found them unrepairable. Good they have a 10 year guarantee, but what if it breaks down at 11 years and it unrepairable?

To add to @JohnMo answer that would mean the HP has to run at least at 60 degrees all the time it is heating water which is right at the top of the range of most of them and the COP would be very poor.

Yellow is GAS. (water is blue or older pipes black) So get advice what to do with a GAS pipe.

We had distemper in a previous 1930's house. It could not even be painted over (it peeled off and wrapped itself around the roller in places)

It would be good to see what it connects to in the floor? I suspect the duct tape around the tundish means there is no trap and that is a bodge to stop the smell. Ideally a normal wet trap for the washing machine and a waterless trap for the tundish.

As well as the above, panel in the space underneath the shed all around and tightly, so the wind can't get underneath it to try and lift it.

As one unit. Which I don't believe is possible.

That's what the "static" in "static caravan" is all about. They don't move apart from when they are delivered or when they are removed at end of life. Traditionally a static caravan was limited to about 10ft wide for road transport reasons, though larger can be transported with additional restrictions like needing an escort vehicle. So to make a large static home, twin unit residential caravans were made. 2 separate typically 10ft wide caravans that when on site bolt side by side to each other to make a 20ft wide home. If you ever expect to move one you would uncouple the 2 halves and move them as 2 separate units. That I am sure is where the original must me moveable in no more than 2 parts came from. This amendment to the HC definition of a "caravan" has been poorly thought out and appears to exclude twin unit mobile homes that are genuinely caravans on wheels, from building regulations exemption. I would like to see that contested. Are the HC really going to insist a twin unit mobile home would require building regulations? which it would fail as they are built to different regulations? It sounds to me like they have bade a huge cock up with this update to their policy note, and it needs challenging.

I would drop Building Control a line and question this change in policy and specifically the point about normal twin unit mobile homes which would no longer appear to qualify as "caravans" under this new interpretation.

That's an interesting change. It seems it can be constructed from as many sections as you want, but once complete must be capable of being moved as one piece. That seems to rule out the traditional wheeled twin unit mobile home. While no doubt you could try moving that as one piece still bolted together, I suspect it may not work very well and the joint would separate and break. Could your extension include a new "chassis" strapped underneath the whole thing so at least theoretically mean it could all be lifted as one?

Very pleased with our Rationel triple glazed windows, definitely not cold so sit next to, but they are probably a bit modern looking compared to the look you are wanting.

My neighbour had one last year. I have no idea what make, but it was orange, round and about the size of a dustbin lid. It was the type that had a wire around the perimiter and it turned round when it sensed the wire. It took a lot of adaptations of the garden to make it work. It would sense and turn round if it detected something like a solid border around a flower bed but it was no good at detecting imperfections in the ground like the rounded top of a boulder sticking through the ground and would get itself stranded and unable to move. He eventually got the garden sorted to keep it mostly happy. In use, it was completely random, no attempt to go up and down methodically cutting strips side by side. It just trundled until it reached a perimiter or an obstacle, turned around and went another direction. Never turning 180 or 90 degrees. So it eventually covered the whole lawn by the law of averages, but went over the same parts many times. It would trundle back to it's charging house when it needed or when it rained. He has not deployed it this year, I don't know why if he has given up with it or what.