ProDave

Seriously, anything you do by way of patching up is going to be a short term measure before the rest of the fence goes. The only real solution is take it down and rebuild. Because you don't want to dig out the old concrete, your new posts will all be displaced one way by a distance. It will mean short section of fence at one end to reach the new, now offset, post the the remainder of posts fitted at normal regular intervals. While it is down have a serious look to see if the rest of the fence is worth saving, if it is give it a good clean and treat liberally with wood preservative. For the new posts, use short concrete posts with the wooden ones bolted to them above ground.

They all work by convection. On the back there is a "radiator" which is where the extracted heat is removed. sometimes it is exposed sometimes as a concealed flat panel that gets warm. The built in ones have grilles in the bottom to allow cold air to be drawn in at floor level, under the fridge and up the back. They need a gap between the back of the fridge and the wall and the top of the cabinet needs to be open. So they are certainly not "enclosed" and definitely not in a 30 minute fire compartment. I still think rather than argue against dubious implementation of a probably non existent regulation, just make sure the fridge is not there for the completion inspection.

Sounds like motor bearing failure. Several others have posted about similar issues including at least one who replaced the bearings himself.

CU with SPD's is likely to cost in the region of £200 Full days job to change it and test everything properly so £300 would be about normal. So £600 is not extortionate.

Just make sure the fridge is not there for completion inspection, out it in the shed, in your car, anywhere out of sight. Then just put it where you want. Too trivial to do anything else with imho.

So a chimney on a hipped roof, will have a (usually lead) valley behind the chimney to catch the rainwater that runs down that bit of roof and divert it around the chimney. It sounds like that has failed. Being a bungalow it should be an easy repair with no scaffold or perhaps a small scaffold tower. A roofer who won't climb a small ladder to look at that is not the one I would choose to do the job. Find a different roofer to go up and have a look.

Why is the fridge not in the kitchen? That seems a major design flaw. As above put it somewhere "normal" for BC sign off. Awaiting the picture.....

Our house is well insulated, air tight and ventilated with an enthralpy mvhr unit. The hygrometer barely moves currently sitting at 58% I have never seen it above 60 or below 50 and it only ever changes very slowly. That is no guarantee that it would help your condition but it sounds hopeful. A house without mvhr has pretty much random ventilation, largely depending on how windy it is. At times it will be unfer ventilated and stuffy, at other times over ventilated and cold. Our new house is never too hot or cold, never draughty yet constantly has fresh feeling air inside.

If drilling from outside, be prepared for missing the light switch or drilling through an existing cable in the wall (which you will have isolated at the CU first just in case) and be prepared for making good the mess you make of the plaster inside.

One other thing, if you have spent a while designing developer boxes on housing estates, design your own home a LOT larger. Don't confine yourself to a developer type house where you barely get room to walk alongside the bed and no room for a dressing table etc. Be generous with your living space. Our 5M by 4M bedrooms are about adequate.

In old houses I doubt too low humidity is your problem. It would be good to identify what you are trying to avoid. Start by getting a hygrometer in the house that affects you. I think most people with an mvhr like me report good internal air quality as one of the benefits. Have you ever been in a house with mvhr?

Can we see a more zoomed out complete picture for perspective please?

I thought being an architect, that bit was a given?

Yes get a new CU that is very old (1965?) and as pointed out no RCD protection and no hope of getting RCBO's to upgrade it. Once cable witn no sleeving on CPC but that is trivial to fix. Likely no earth bonding to water or gas. Third MCB from main switch seems to feed a lot of different stuff.

Just drill at an angle. I would drill from inside, taking care as you are nearly through to go gentle to avoid bursting the brick. Drilling from outside, you might miss the switch.

A 100A single phase supply is 21KVA. You will not get any higher than that for a single phase domestic supply. My 12KVA supply would allow me 52A.

So it means you need to request a "formal offer" only then can you discuss it and negotiate it. The formal offer should state which items are contestable (could be done by others) and which are not. I got my quote down a lot by doing all the contestable work myself. On the subject of capacity, I was offered a 12KVA supply as the most that was available, any more would require a transformer upgrade. That is ample for our needs.

Post pictures of what is on the outside, and the corresponding inside. I usually solve this by putting the switch for the lights on the inside if the wall they are fixed to and the switch creates the safe zone for the cables.

Looking in the loft will show you if it's a pipe leak or rainwater leak. It's above the fireplace, so strongly suspect a chimney issue. You should be able to see water running down the wall in the loft. If it is chimney then getting properly onto the roof is required which most likely will need scaffolding.

On an EICR that would be a C2 and so "unsatisfactory" so he should not have left it like that.

Up here, a 50KVA transformer feeds 5 properties, so start by arguing them fitting a 50KVA transformer is overkill and they are in effect asking you to fund the upgrade for another 3 houses to connect to it.

Post a picture of your controller. Unless it is really ancient a replaceent should just fit on the same back plate with no wiring changes.

Fair enough. But having done the right thing and told them you are parking it in a garage, for them to say if it gets stolen from your drive it is not covered is bang out of order.

Insurance companies can do strange things. when I built a garage I told my car insurance company it was now kept in a garage. How much did it reduce my premium? £NIL. Then I asked what would happen if I left it outside one night and it got stolen. NOT COVERED. I now declare the car is parked on the driveway.

I guarantee there is no insulation behind the panelling in the bedrooms, hence it is cold and condensation can form mould. Thousands of croft houses were like that. If you want to keep the panneling you can rewire leaving it largely untouched. You just need to create an access hatch to the coomb spaces at the eaves and be prepared to crawl or use a fish wire. Take the chance to at least insulate the coomb space. To insulate the sloping ceilings without blocking the ventilation is a whole other problem which will need the ceiling stripped and is probably impractical anyway as you would loose ceiling height, which there is not much of to start with.