ProDave

5kW will be plenty. Almost certainly way more than you need for heating and cooling the building and adequate for heating a 300L water tank. I and many others have that size of ASHP for heating a whole house.

To save others pondering whether to open an unknown 28MB file, here is a shrunk version. Us, last weekend:

Doing really well to be under £1K per square metre.

We got all ours mail order from Boston Seeds.

This is a real thing. My BIL suffers from it. He went for a walk up a hill near the sea, fine on the way up, turned around to look out to sea. The land sloping gently downwards to the sea gave him an attack. He had to crawl down the hill on all fours. It must run in the family. I took his 2 children on a hill walk in Wales, we got to a narrow ridge between 2 peaks, the stuff that for me is the highlight of the walk. The daughter freaked out and we had to find a different way down to avoid it. I guess if this is a problem for you, don't design your house with a galleried landing with glass balustrades? design it with stairs enclosed both sides by a wall and opening to an enclosed landing.

I would just heat and bend the connecting bit of pipe for that. Alternative off the ball idea. 50mm SW coupler. 50mm to 32mm reducer Note the reducer is offset. SW one in one way up, the other in the other way up. That gives you a straight coupling with about 30mm offset.

Show the specific problem you are trying to solve with full dimensions.

You need to take some bricks off and excavate in an archaeological fashion to determine at what level the ground has sunk. It could be the aco drain is leaking and the top layer of sand has washed away, or it could be something deep down that has collapsed like previously made up ground, a collapsed drain, a leaking water pipe or just about anything else.

Just a rough outline of where the house would go. ARM application went to public consultation just like any other but this time with full details.

Approval of Reserved Matters was correct, that is exactly what we did following outline permission.

Ask them to quote you the exact wording of the policy that limits the side extension to 3.1 metres. While waiting for an answer have a walk around your area and find any side extension >3.1 metres that has been allowed and see if you can track down it's planning application.

Get a formal application in. Then you will get a grown up on the job who knows what they are talking about.

Are you sure? Using the spirit stove on our boat at the weekend, with the main hatch shut but front hatch open a crack and rear ventilator open. it set off the CO alarm. I am happier that the WBS at home takes it's air directly from outside and all the products of combustion go up the flue, not into the house.

+1 Something does not sound right at all.

If you have limits on your local transformer and are concerned they may make you pay for an upgrade, ask them what IS available without upgrade. In my case i was offered a 12KVA supply which has proved totally adequate. More realistic appliance estimates Fan oven 2kW ALL lights on in the house at the same time 175W (all LED) 5kW heat pump max 2kW electricity consumption Immersion heater 3kW rarely used but auutomatically soaks up surplus solar PV Washing machine 3kW only when heating water, much lower at other times. No bit appliances like electric showers so it is easy to see why 12KVA is enough for us.

Had them in several rentals and now in the present house, never had a problem as long as you use a GOOD make. Mine are all multipanel. I was at a rental the other day where the top coating was starting to flake off, I don't know what make they were unfortunately so I can't tell you which to avoid.

While you are at it, create an access hatch to each eaves space, e.g. a removeable back to your built in bookcase.

We had a raised deck and wind out canopy from the wall at our previous house, installed there 20 years ago without PP. I guess I just "got away with it"? So if your deck and canopy were a few mm gap between it and the house, and it complied with the permitted development rules for a garden building would it comply? Unless you have vindictive nosy neighbours I would just do it and take the flack if any came.

11 metres end to end of the house, but not herringone, just wide planks.

Our engineered woof floor runs continuously through kitchen / dining, hallway, and living room with expansion gaps all the way round under skirting as one continuous run. In the hall it abuts the tiled entrance area with a flush tight fit with no problems.

That's not a "shower tray" it's a wet room. So the shower area will have some type of former to give it the slope to the drain built into the floor then the tiles are applied. There will (should) be some form of tanking under the tiles and at least part way up the walls. Usually the whole room is done as a wet room, not just the shower area. So some water getting outside the shower area is not an issue. We use a squeegee on a pole to sweep up any escaped water afterwards. Some will inevitably splash off you as you shower, there is nothing you can do about that. But if the shower area is filling up and you are standing in a puddle as you shower, then the shower drain / trap needs clearing out. It should be a top access trap, start by lifting the grid off the top of the drain and investigate.

Reminds me of an incident when we still had a buy to let property. There was a leak in the roof, so I had a quickstage tower up to the roof and my roof ladder hooked over the roof for the repair. I left the house for the evening, taking with me the ladder that gave access to the scaffold. When I returned the next day, the roof ladder was not on the roof, but leaning against the scaffold. How did it get there. Then I noticed the white paint on it. It did not take much detective work to see the house a few doors down being painted. They thought it was okay to borrow it and then not even put it back on the roof and not bother to keep it clean. There are some cheeky b******s about.

It just looks unfinished to me. Some plasterboard and plaster skim would finish it off nicely. And plaster that bare blockwork wall while you are at it.

There have been cases on here where if you stand on the footpath and reach out with your arm and cannot touch the fence then it is deemed not to be "adjacent" but it is very subjective. Try re submitting with the fence 1 metre from the footpath, and see what they say, argue you are moved it back so it is no longer "adjacent" and you have left an open strip of land.

If the builder only cares that you satisfy the planners, then ask your planner what their definition of "adjacent" to the highway is? They may let you have a fence a bit closer to the highway, still with an open area adjacent to it and be able to fence off part of your garden. That would be a good compromise.