ProDave

Re the TMV, that typically adds £150 for a pump and mixing valve to each manifold. So that's £300 extra for upstairs and downstairs. . If I go the "tank regulates the temperature" route all I need is the manifolds, which are a LOT cheaper than the blending valve and pump set, and a simple single circulating pump. Remember I am on an almost non existent budget, so £300 extra spend needs a very good reason. I am keeping HW and heating completely separate so not bothered about using the heating buffer as a pre heat for DHW, that probably would not work ver well as they are some distance apart. There will be an unvented tank for DHW which will get pre heated by the heat pump on a separate cycle and topped up with an immersion.

So I'm starting to plan installing (at least part of) my heating system. I have an air source heat pump. I am having wet under floor heating upstairs in just the bathrooms, and downstairs in most rooms. Upstairs UFH is installed, downstairs will come later. I am planning a buffer tank of some sort for the heating, and this is where I need help and advice, My understanding is the heat pump will heat the buffer tank, and the UFH will take heat from the buffer tank. That seems simple. But it raises some questions: Firstly just a dumb tank or a tank with heat exchange coils? On the face of it, a dumb tank would do, but then the entire system, including the UFH loops and the tank itself would need to be filled with antifreeze or suitable inhibitor that's good to at least -10 degrees. Or just have a small "outside" circuit circulating heat from the ASHP to an input coil on the buffer tank, then the tank itself and the UFH only needs an inhibitor not antifreeze? So that's the first question, what sort of tank? Second question is control of the UFH circulation temperature. Conventional wisdom is feed hotter water than you need to the manifolds and have a blending valve on the manifold to set the flow temperature. But the blending valves seem expensive. How about a dumb UFH manifold, and simply set the temperature in the buffer tank (with a tank stat) to the desired UFH temperature? Only downside is it would not allow upstairs and downstairs UFH to run at different temperatures. Third question, how large should the buffer tank be? And last question, this will be a sealed system with inhibitor, so is it still a legionnaires risk so does it need periodic heating to a higher temperature or can it run forever at 30 degrees or whatever is required?

So no need to actually split the title and sort out the easment issue at all at the moment? If the easment issue is too much, how about just making the access strip jointly owned between the two properties?

On the one occasion we had an attempted break in (when we lived in Oxfordshire) they got as far as ripping the glazing beads off the back door but never got the glass out. Instead of logging it as an attempted break in (which I am sure is what it was) it was logged as "criminal damage"

Finish the bathroom first. Please.

Look at the size of them, they are massive.

Next time, WAIT until he has actually picked something up and is leaving the site with it before you confront him, then it IS theft and the police had bloody well better take notice. I assume you are living in the hut? Is there a way you can leave the hut and make your way round to where the car is parked ready to confront him at the car with his bounty? Preferably with a camera?

I would turn this around. Presumably you are going to sell the original house? If so at the time of sale, you retain ownership of the access strip, and grant an easment to the purchaser of the old house so they can use it.

I dismantled a couple of LCD tv screens from sets with broken screens (to recover the CFL tubes) They are made up of several layers of opaque plastic sheets for precicely the same reason, to difuse the light so it does not appear to come from a few CFL tubes. That would probably easily cut into strips for what you want. Not sure that helps unless you want to seek out a scrap a tv and start dismantling it.

Or accidentally spill a box of nails there.

Forget the toaster and do your toast under the grill.

Every man should have a boat.

Yes it is fed from a pressure reducing valve, but no (over) pressure relief valve.

The Hyco one I linked to is all self contained and has no provision to connect any external relief valve or discharge pipework. I know of one working well feeding a sink immediately above it, and a basin probably 6 metres of pipework away with no issues and nothing fitted external to the unit, just cold water in and hot out to the two taps.

Follow this "logic" to it's conclusion, and they will be charging Council tax on a building plot as soon as PP is granted (based on the value of the house proposed) wedge, thin end.

I have fitted a couple of these for customers. They come in at least 3 different sizes. They seem to do the job for a sink in a kitchenette and a basin in the toilet.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hyco-SF10K-Undersink-Electric-Water-Heater-Unvented-10-Litre-2Kw-/290610639375?epid=1812691432&hash=item43a9be720f:g:IOIAAOSw4A5YrprN

If you want the maths, I bought mine, nearly 3 years later I sold it for the same amount. It only cost me the delivery charge, some diesel, and some minor servicing to have it all that time. I still miss Doug.

Just in case there is any confusion, I don't have one. I have not yet reached the point of installing the heating and HW system in my house, so the jury is still out on whether to use a SunAmp or an unvented HW cylinder. Unless something changes before I reach that point, then the decision will be capital cost, as capital is something I am very short of.

Go on, you know you really want to buy one to own.....

Back of fag packet maths. If a vacant plot is "worth" the same £2K rates valuation, then 26 vacant plots = a rateable value of £52K Split the vacant plots between 4 owners, so 6, 6, 7 and 7 per owner = below the threshold and all owners can claim a 100% rebate. More "money for old rope" grabbing by our lovely Scottish government

I can't see the difference. You argued you don't know exactly where it is going, that argument is more true for ducting. Just bury a length of 6mm SWA cable and leave the end coiled up near where you thing it will end up.

Re ridge tiles. I uses the dry ridge system that comes as a roll of stuff and some plastic brackets. Tile one side, then as you tile the other, roll out a bit more and fit ridge tiles as you go, so you can do that as well without standing n any finished roof.

A few tips I used Marley Edgemere which is a flat interlocking concrete tile. I had the one with a "riven" finish being the only one that looked slightly like slate so the planners would allow it. I carried them up in batches with help from swmbo. I reckon by time I had done the roof, I had climbed the equivalent of 2 Munro's up and down the ladder. My knees knew it. Do your roof the "Scottish way" and fit solid sarking board (OSB or ply) before the membrane, then you won't have to worry where you stand. I used Protect VP400 plus non tenting membrane. You need nails at the top, and clips at the bottom for most interlocking tiles. Start bottom right and work up and left and you can do the whole roof without having to stand on any tiles you have already laid. This assumes the gable end is scaffolded so you can work from the scaffold to complete the run. I used a wet diamond tile cutter, intended for cutting ceramic tiles but it did a good job of cutting concrete roof tiles. If there is an area you might want to remove, then don't nail that bit, screw them instead so they are easier to remove some tiles. The purists will say you should load a roof evenly, but I just tiled one side then the other and had no problems.

Bend the blade to compensate

Is the shaft really bent? Does it run at all? what's the symptoms. A previous mower I had, hit a bit of a stump. What happened was the motor stopped dead, but the inertia kept the flywheel going and it sheered the key that held the flywheel to the top of the shaft. One new key and it ran again and went on for years until the deck rested away. Our own mower packed up a few weeks ago, so SWMBO went into town with the objective to come back with the cheapest petrol mower she could find and came back with a "Challenge" Good points it's got a plastic deck so it won't rust but I suspect it will find some other way to fall apart instead. Bad points it's a bit small at 42cm cut and the grass box is a bit small.