ProDave

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3.9 what? ACH?

Go and have a look at my blog, link at the bottom of the post. Some of the early entries are not there as I had to move the blog and haven't got round to reloading the early entries, but there are plenty of photos. Once you have a warm roof supported by a ridge beam, you can do what you like with the roof space. The largest bedroom (for our daughter) has the ceiling left open right to the ridge and the mezanine. The landing and bathrooms have a normal 2.4 metre ceiling and a loft space above them. The master bedroom gets a 3 metre ceiling and a smaller loft space above it. In our case it was a Kurto (sp?) bean used for the ridge which gives the same strength in a smaller size than say a GluLam beam. Steel can also be used. The MVHR ducting runs through the loft spaces. For the room with the vaulted ceiling, the mvhr ducts run around the edge of the mezanine where they will be boxed in. EDIT: Here's a picture of that room with the full height ceiling and mezanine. This one is not on the blog yet as it's still work in progress.

I am in the process of doing this. This is pretty much the standard house here in the Highlands. I can't compare costs though as I have not finished. Rather than using attic trusses this time, I have a warm roof supported on a big ridge beam, meaning all the internal space of the loft is warm and unobstructed. This is enabling us to have one of the bedrooms open right to the ridge and then a mezanine floor above the adjacent small bedroom. With standard attic trusses, you usually end up with less floor area upstairs. But our cut roof and ridge beam, together with using large "gable ends" instead of dormers, means the floor area upstairs is the same as downstairs, and most of it, all bar a couple of corners gives standing headroom.

Magic Man seems to have been recommended several times https://www.magicman.co.uk/

I'm in the countryside just outside Alness. I sail my boat from Avoch on the Black Isle.

Not so far from me then. I seldom go much further than Elgin. I'm 20 miles north of Inverness.

It's not very often I get to refer to someone as being "up north"

Hi and welcome to the forum. What do you regard as "North East" Scotland? There are already a few on here building around Aberdeen. I'm a little further north.

I would not want to go back to Talk Talk. We changed to them in the days when they were offering free broadband if you signed up to them as you telephone provider. The catch was that only applied to unbundled exchanges and ours was not unbundled. But we went ahead on the promise that our exchange was due to be unbundled and the BB would then be free. I didn't do any homework, but it turned out there were no plans to unbundle the exchange, that had been a lie. Then we had a fault with the BB. Talk Talk did not want to refer the fault to Open Reach, because they got charged for that (not my problem) they just kept sending me a new router as "that must be the problem" I think I had 4 of them, all made no difference. In the end, I escalated it to the CEO. Because of the lie about free unbundled broadband I was able to leave the contract early and all the money I had paid for broadband was refunded. BT took over the connection again, still with the BB fault, but when I reported the fault to them, it got fixed. The moral of that, is don't trust what TT tell you, and if you get a fault, it may prove very hard to get it fixed. IMHO not worth saving a few £ for shoddy service. Re getting a connection., all you have to do is run the cables as Open Reach instructed you. So in our case the cable came into the house to where we wanted the master socket, across the site, under the road, and ended as a coil of cable above where the OR engineer told me their cable was. When we were ready to connect, I just contacted BT for a "new line" They sent OR to make the connection. The same surveyor I had seen 2 years ago came out first. I had to pay the BT £65 new connection fee, but most of that was then refunded when the work over ran and our connection was late.

Yes ordered through their distributor ADW in Cumbernauld. Fitted by my builder. My builder double checked all measurements prior to placing the order so they knew it should all fit.

I think it's no on both counts. You should not connect an uncontrolable heat source to an unvented tank. That run would have to be pumped, No good again when the power goes off with an uncontrolable heat source, it would boil in the stove.

I have mentioned it before but we had no problems with Rationel. Well okay, one problem, the courier bent one of the window cills, so the supplier sent a replacement promptly.

Post a picture if you can. The bit coming off the bracket down into the house will definitely be insulated. The bit from the bracket to the pole if it's old may well be two uninsulated cables. Can you replace a bit of the rotten soffit (and clad it with UPVC) right up to the rotten bit so when they come, there is a new sound bit of soffit to re attach the bracket to. Then you can replace the final rotten bit where the bracket used to be. I don't think it has to be hanging loose, just look like failure is iminent so you can report it as being in a dangerous condition. My cable mentioned earlier merely had cracks in the insulation where is could fail at any moment.

I'll say no more than a repair on the distribution side should be free. So if the cable came free from the rotten board and was hanging down........ Are they bare wires or insulated coming off the bracket? (the ones that go across to the pole) I had a similar dilemma at a previous house, I wanted to replace the back door but the cable entered through the door frame. When I pointed out to them that the cable was damaged they replaced it free of charge, and routed te new cable through a hole in the wall I had drilled prior to their visit.

You will get a visit from a surveyor who will measure the external area of the property and base the CT band on that. You then have a few months to appeal the banding. Building control completion is quite separate. In out last house it was well over a year before we got BC completion as that was waiting on the garage being completed and that didn't even get started until we had moved in.

Why block at all if rendering? I am achieving a U value of 0.14 in a well insulated timber frame with wood fibre board for external insulation and render applied to that. Overall wall thickness inside to out of 360mm including a service void on the inside for cables then plasterboard.

Personally I would have cut out a square of PB, inserted a new square with the correct sized hole in it.

I thought the issue with 1:80 was it is the absolute minimum allowed, so you have to be really careful that nothing happens to allow a bit of pipe to sag. Some say when doing 1:80 under the ground you should concrete it in for that reason. If you have enough room I would go as close to 1:40 as you can. It's not one or the other, it's anywhere in between.

looks alright to me, but a plumber will be along shortly to advise properly. The next electrician who wants to take that socket front off will swear at you.

Why are you set on LPG? Of all the "non mains gas" options it is probably the most expensive. What does the price work out at per kWh (I have no idea how much a "unit" is that you mention)? Don't discount air source heat pumps just because you can't get any RHI payment. To get the RHI it has to be installed by an MCS registered installer and that seems to add a big premium to the price. I have just bought my heat pump for a shade over £500 as an ebay bargain. I will self install it but any self respecting plumber could install it. Assuming it gives a COP of 3.5 when heating the low temperature UFH that's a price per kWh of under 4p per kWh. Not far off mains gas prices and I am sure less than LPG prices? Likewise don't rule out solar PV with no FIT. I am resigned to the fact that by time I am able to fit solar PV there will be no FIT or it will be so low as not worth bothering. Again, no FIT means no need for an MCS installer and you can DIY it, or any electrician can. You need to make sure you can use most of what you generate, which means use the big appliances (washing machine etc) only in the daytime, and have a hot water tank to dump excess power into hot water. I am also keeping an eye on battery storage for self usage but it is not "there" yet in terms of cost, particularly battery life and replacement cost. Oh and welcome to the new forum.

If you are talking of 3KW generation, I would hardly call that "Pico Hydro" My own scheme I am thinking of would probably generate 100W, that certainly is Pico and I won't worry where to dump excess generation. Surely in your situation you would close of the water and shut it down if the dump load has shut off? Even better would be to modulate the water flow so generation = usage?

We built an extension to our previous 1930's house nearly doubling it's size under a building notice. The only complication it caused was some builders would not take the job on without a full detailed set of drawings, but we found one that was happy, and he did a good job.

The normal tapers just put filler over the joint spread 100mm or so either side so it can be sanded to a barely perceivable "bump" Plastering will give a better finish and that's what we want (if we can afford it)

Domestic testing only seems to be done upon sale of a house at the moment, and then only if the lender asks for it. Private rental properties have to be tested every 2 years or on change of tenancy, but not council or HA properties. PA testing is every 5 years on a rental property. The thing that would change that would be if insurers started demanding it? Funny how people get upset though when you find faults and refuse to give it a satisfactory without remedial work. Totally agree about nobody knowing how to wire a plug now, or change the fuse wire in an old style fuse. Kitchen fitters are the worst for electrical (and probably plumbing / gas) bodges, as bad as anything the worst DIYer does in many cases.