ProDave

And what will be the postage from Tob? Is this a private seller with just one roll left over or more than one roll? At that price, if the postage is not crippling, I would like roill.

Further down, there is a section "Heat Loss versus outside temperature" I use the worst case figure in the right hand column, when there is 30 degree between inside and out (i.e -10 outside and +20 inside)

I put two meter boxes in. "Theirs" and "mine"

Assuming you put the twin wall flue in first, then in order to connect to the stove, you have to be able to insert a short bit of single wall flue bwtween the stove and the twin wall. You need a bit of telescoping single wall flue for that.

I have been discussing this in my own thread as it appears building regs contradict with regards to a hearth (I will call BC some time to get a definitive answer) It does appear to me, that building regs are a bit lenient with respect to "distance to flamables" It also appears the stove manufacturers spec overrules the default clearances stated in bregs. So if your stove manufacturer says 250mm to flamables then you could indeed put bare plasterboard on a timber frame 250mm from the stove. But it is going to get pretty hot. So tiles would seem a very good idea. I will be taking the twin wall down as close as I can get to the stove so that section can be bare plasterboard, and I will be using a stone slab behind the stove. You can't take the twin wall all the way down to the stove, unless you build the entire stack upwards from the stove, so you will need a short extending section of single wall flue. to join the twin wall to the stove. I will be making sure my stone slab extends above that section of single wall flue.

This detail has come to be known here as a "Tony Tray" The joists are INSIDE the air tight layer of the building so moisture in the air inside the building can get to the joists including the joist ends. The devil is in the detail. What es beyond the joist ends? In my case the external wall insulation so they should not be that cold. But if it is just a "normal" timber frame with a cold vented cavity then a brick or block skin then there might be issues?

Ah yes. I am well versed with replacing failed capacitors in all sorts of electronics. That Fridgemaster unit looks very nice

I would try REALLY hard to make them enter the house at the closest point rather than go all the way round. It can be a lot simpler if you do what many of us have, and put the electricity meter box on the boundary as a permanent feature, then it is your cable from the meter box to the house. Can you do the same with gas? I have never seen anyone do that? Water just to a toby (underground stopcock) and a standpipe close to the boundary. Lay the pipe to the house later.

Okay it's fitted badly. BUT my first reaction, is "why fit a chrome kitchen tap outside". Sorry I hate the tap. I would change it for a standard brass outside tap that looks well like an outside tap. Best of luck getting it re done, but I can't think of anything that will make it look nice. Sorry.

In so many ways, it would be better to build the new house to live in (CIL exemption, VAT refund etc) and rent your current house instead. Then in 3 years flip them over. It's a question of could you stand a tenant in your present house and the damage they may do, but the savings in CIL and VAT would surely more than pay for rectifying any damage they do?

There was a thread some time back, what to do with small offcuts of PIR insulation. Answer. Post them to @Onoff

The answer is SIMPLE. You do NOT clad the area below the door with your stone, or whatever external skin. So you door theshold opens directly onto the paving slabs or whatever else makes up your entrance platt, ans that entrance platt recesses into the doorway and abuts the small door cill of the actual door frame.

MCS (FIT?) or not? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4KW-SOLAR-PANEL-PV-KIT-SYSTEM-BEST-PRICE-IN-THE-UK-AND-EBAY/162967359640?hash=item25f19c9098:g:02YAAOSwQM9UaNmN https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3KW-SOLAR-PANEL-PV-KIT-SYSTEM-CHEAPEST-IN-THE-UK-AND-ON-EBAY/152920052267?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50546%26meid%3D80404c91984140fbb22667abc6016f2a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D162967359640%26itm%3D152920052267&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Even a conventional straight from the wagon pour, you need somewhere for them to wash out. It's a messy business.

We had the plumbed in ice maker and water chiller in the last house. The mechanism for that takes up about the top third of the freezer. It was also not the most reliable thing having a tendancy to keep on making ice cubes and overflowing it's bucket. Agree that made the freezer space too small.

Possibility. Though SWMBO wants the chilled water dispenser (quite why I don't no. For 3/4 of the year, mains water here arrives pre chilled straight from the tap)

Possibly not, but I am sure more economical than the 15 year old one we had in the last house.

I hate the term "American" but it is the accepted term for larger Fridge Freezers, usually fridge and freezer side by side. In the last house we paid over £1K for such an animal. Way more than I thought it was worth. But for the last year we have been struggling with a normal separate "under worktop" fridge and freezer. The fridge in particular struggles to contain a weeks shopping, so in the new house we want something larger, which probably brings us back to the "American" things. It's only a distant thought just now. BUT in a RARE moment of watching commercial tv live, I caught an advert, which led me to this: https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/household-appliances/refrigeration/fridge-freezers/logik-lsbsdx17-american-style-fridge-freezer-innox-10156712-pdt.html We don't really want to buy it now. I would rather wait until we have a near complete kitchen to put it in. So the question boils down to: Is this a particular bargain that must be snapped up now before the offer ends? or are "American" Fridge freezers now generally and widely available for just over £400 (which is the sort of price I would be comfortable with)?

Most people would just stand on a stool to reach it for cleaning.

At least plug in an extension lead and hang it over the fence.

I am sure that would be okay. We all have an "after sign off" list

It's a warm roof hung from a ridge beam, with separate ridge beams for the gables / dormers I don't know if any of these show enough details.

Balcony, yet to be built. Currently known as the suicide door.

That will fail Scottish building regs on accessability, you can't have the door swinging over the activity space in front of the pan. You could do what we are doing, the utility room and WC are all one room. Not to everyones taste to have Washing machine, tumble dryer, sink unit then WC in a line, but building control are fine with it. Don't also forget you have to demonstrate you have space to fit a downstairs shower. You can probably do that by saying you will sacrifice the wardrobe in the downstairs bedroom.

Is this the look you want? I was initially told this was impossible. I was told the dormer / gables must have an "end" and could not carry on down to nothing. What he actually meant was the beam that support them could not carry on down to nothing. So Inside you end up with this where the roof beams square off the ends: the ends pf the gable are cut off inside as the beam comes down to the bottom. Externally you clad any shape you want in our case with the sarking board to get the valleys to run all the way to the bottom with no "end"