ProDave

it might have sold by now.

You must be remembering that famous ebay advert for a dress

That's what I thought, but the invoice came back Bradford bathrooms. One of those companies that trades under multiple names?

I wanted a remote shower mixer and found it strangely hard to find. We visited a couple of the bathroom "sheds" in town, and none of them had one, just a variety of showers with the controls directly below the shower head. It was only asking on hear that I found what I wanted and bought it all mail order from Bradford Bathrooms. To me it just made sense. Whenever you turn a shower on, you always get cold water out first before the hot gets there. Why would you want your arm sprayed with cold water?

I am astonished that give the summertime temperatures, that any surface is cold enough for moisture to condense. It must be part of the cold window detail where it is condensing then finding it's way through the SIP panel at a joint perhaps.

Video won't play for me on either computer or phone (probably because they are not i thingies. What is directly above where the pool of water is? it should be obvious what it is dripping from.

The Scottish Government are bringing in a new rule that rented properties need a Legionela risk assessment. I think I will be basing mine on that analysis.

Something missing there. I would expect the top left "call for heat" contacts to connect to the boiler to turn it on when the UFH wants some heat. Without that connected, what turns the boiler pump on and off? I suspect at the moment it runs all the time the boiler timer is on, so I would expect the radiators to work. It would be better if this call for heat contact controlled the boiler, and you could put an upstairs room stat in parallel with that, so the boiler would only come on when either the UFH or upstairs actually wants some heat.

Yes here is mine, or rather my two

I do, temporarily have one hot water dead leg, the feed to the utility room that as yet has no sink or tap on the end of it. But if there is nothing there to grow and multiply anyway.....

Yes that's the one. When we first moved here, before the new treatment plant was built, when there was a strong SW wind it wold stir up the silt near the outtake and the water came out of the taps with a slight brown tint. That has gone with the new works, but the water still tastes pure. I really notice when I go south now how much chlorine is in a lot of the water.

Ours went the other way on the last house. We had the NHBC solo for self build. At completion, I got the NHBC inspector out for the completion inspection. He signed the completion stage in the log book. I asked what other paperwork we would get and he said that is it. 6 months later the 10 year warranty certificate arrived, dated for 10 years from that day. so we got an extra 6 months.

Thanks for that reply @JSHarris Yes it's a sealed unvented tank, mains water supply. The water comes from Loch Glass about 6 miles away and treated by Scottish Water in a relatively new treatment plant. I don't know what treatment it gets there, but unlike some other parts of the country, it arrives to us a pure water with no taste, smell or even hint of chlorine. But we are to assume it arrives as tested potable water, so you are saying there is no risk and I should not bother? I still need to sort out the thermostat so solar PV has the ability to store more unwanted power in the tank.

Thermowatt RTS-3 thermostat. No numbers on the dial, just marked + and -. Hard round all the way as far as it will go in the + direction, hard against the stop.

300L Telford unvented with heat pump input coil. The immersion is a Thermowatt type, the ones where the thermostat plugs onto the element terminals with 2 spade terminals. I have sent an email to Trevor, but it surely must be an "out of calibration" thermostat? Surely it should be capable of 70 degrees?

Oh dear. I have hit a "problem" The immersion heater thermostat that came with my Telford UVC cuts off at 54 degrees even on it's hottest setting. That's neither hot enough for a pasturisation cycle or to give a decent amount of solar PV storage. Clearly the thermostat needs to be changed, that can't be right.

We set out our shower to be 1200 by 900. but didn't get around to sorting out the glass panel to enclose it. Result is we have a shower area of 1200 by 1200 open to the rest of the bathroom. We like the complete openness so much it is now unlikely we will ever fit the glass panel to enclose it.

I can just stick with the controls the heat pump has (when I get around to actually connecting the immersion heater to it) or later on I can implement my own controls when I install the solar PV and the excess energy dump controller that will also have control of the immersion heater. I guess I am trying to minimise cost of using resistance heating. Currently what I am noticing (when doing a manual pasturisation) is from turning on the immersion heater, it probably takes half an hour before I actually see the temperature start to rise. That is probably stratification, and the immersion is lower down in the tank than the heat pump input coil reaches. I guess that's a good thing as the immersion will be heating that pool of cool water sitting at the bottom of the tank. Using the heat pump controls I can't go beyond weekly as it only knows "days of the week" and has no mechanism to say every other week, but I can set the target temperature and how long it wants to stay there. That latter point is academic as having heated the tank it will stay at that temperature for many hours unless you are drawing a lot of hot water off. I am likely when I install the PV to do the pasturisation from that, as it can be more intelligent, i.e. the controller can monitor the temperature and know for instance it already reached 70 degrees a couple of days ago when it was partucularly sunny, and reset the count down to the next cycle, something the heat pump controller cannot do.

I have a 300 litre unvented water tank. Heated primarily from an air source heat pump but later we intend to install solar PV with excess power heating the tank via the immersion heater. The reason for the large tank is to enable hot water to routinely be stored at the lowest usable temperature as heat pumps are not good at heating water very hot. The sweet spot I have arrived at is a target water temperature of 48 degrees. The heat pump has a built in hysteresis so does not start to re heat until the temperature drops 5 degrees, so in my case, it turns on again at 43 degrees. At that temperature, the water is just hot enough for the hottest task of dishwashing, if you run hot water only with no cold added, so I cannot reduce the hot water temperature any lower. So this is all working well, should not give the heat pump a problem, minimises standing losses, and still allows plenty of capacity later on for excess solar PV to heat the water a lot more. So onto the question. Legionella and what do I really need to do to be safe? By default, the heat pump wants to heat the water once per week using the immersion heater to 70 degrees. Does it really need to be that hot? Wickepedia suggests 60 degrees is enough https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Legionnaires'_disease and does in need to be weekly or is a longer time still safe? What do other heat pump users do?

I can't picture what is happening above the ceiling, but the Durgo should be above where the water enters the pipe runs, so usually instead of an elbow at the shower trap, have a tee, and continue the pipe a bit further and fit the durgo to that.

The Durgo is supposed to go on the top if the pipe the water flows down so the slug of water creates a vacuum and the Durgo allows air to enter to replace that. Having the Durgo off on a separate branch is not going to help that at all. You need to continue the shower waste pipe past the shower trap then up somehwere and that is where the Durgo goes.

The clearance under the line will be enough for normal road traffic, you can probably look it up but that will be a minimum of about 5 metres. It would not surprise me if the standard height of the poles is 6 metres, hence the "no build" distance being 6 metres so if the pole fell over the line would not hit the building. In the unlikely event of a pole failing in this case, the line could come into contact with the building. Ouch. Rules change over time. In the past houses were build under pylons (talking 205KV or more) I am sure that is no longer allowed. I used to regularly drive past a nice neat row of bungalows but one of them was stepped back from the rest because it had a 132KV pylon in the front garden.

That won't be an issue with us as the garage door faces north, so I don't expect it to bake in the summer. But I don't expect much from a thin bit of insulation in such a door.

I will let you know how I get on. I have just had a look at his ebay feedback, 100%. BUT only 1 garage door in the last 6 months, and all other feedback is over a year ago and totally different stuff. I will probably take a punt knowing I will get my money back from Paypal if it never arrives but it looks like he has only just started up selling garage doors, and possibly just changed his user name to reflect that.

Roller Doors UK on ebay have come back with a price of £565 including delivery to the Highlands, 2 keyfobs etc. So I will ptobably go with that.