ProDave

Just a heads up, a new series of Grand Designs starts on channel 4 at 9PM tonight.

Is the pump running? there is a pump on each manifold, can you hear them running? There is also another pump in the pland room is that running? There are 2 motorised valves in the plant room. Try manually opening them with the little lever that sticks out.

Very sad but totally avoidable. If I had seen the forecast I would have hitched up and moved somewhere sheltered, not stayed on the edge of a cliff. I did the same in Scotland once, we spend 2 nights not on the normal part of the caravan site, but in the shelter of a stone barn with the 'van lashed down.

Eerie here. Not a breath of wind, been the same all day, and raining. Wind at Inverness airport (only 20 miles away) has been just up to 40 mph earlier.

If it has one. Many attached garages like that are just open to the roof.

Only issue is getting the pipe from the house to the garage without compromising the fire integrity of that wall.

You can get individual insulation / continuity, loop, and rcd testers pretty cheap on ebay. For a one off DIY job I would not get too hung up about the lack of calibration certificate. It is unlikely they will be than inaccurate.

I think it's all down to what the manufacturer says.

Except up here they show no interest in inspecting soakaways or any element of the drainage after the treatment plant, so as long as it's right on the drawings........

Cut along the edge, or better just a bit away from it with a multi tool. Also use that to cut along the joint to cut the tongue where you want to lift them. I have an old slide hammer nail; puller that helps to take boards up relatively clean. Fix a batten behind the cut to support the free cut end. Watch out for pipes and cables touching the underside of the board. Most of us in the trade will have had "the fountain" at least once.

Those 2 small "tanks" are expansion vessels. This system is starting to sound like one I had to sort out a few years ago. It was a new build, wired by someone else and it had never worked properly with some rooms freezing and some rooms roasting. The basic issue was all the room thermostats were controlling a different room to where they were, it had been set up wrong. To test that theory, go and turn ALL rooms up to maximum and see if any / all get hot.

Gurgles are caused by a blockage of the vent, so the lump of water flowing down the drain creates a vacuum. Normally the vent allows air in, but if the vent is blocked it will suck air in through one of the traps. I assume there is another flat above you? THEY might have a blockage that as well as blocking their flow, has stopped the stack venting? More information if you can please.

You need to start by working out your heat input requirements. @JSHarris has made a wonderful spreadsheet to make this easy, I am sure someone will post a link to it very soon. From that you can wok out how many watts per square metre your UFH system has to deliver and then you can work out pipe spacing etc.

That's the MCS price?

At those U values you will certainly want close spaced pipes in the UFH and will need to run it hotter than many of us do. Definitely pay a lot of attention to air tightness and in particular, don't accidentally construct a "plasterboard tent" inside your stone building with the gap behind the plasterboard open to cold parts i.e. the loft.

That's the company I bought mine from. You will remember the saga I had when mine (different make) turned out to be faulty, but it did get resolved.

OR turn it on now and see if things start working.

What a shame I could not find an architect that thinks like that near me.

My gripe with architects is they would only quote me a full price for the whole job, which was based on their estimate of the build cost (which turned out to be a lot higher than the actual build cost) and they would not negotiate e.g if I only wanted design and drawings and no project management. I ended up using an architectural technician to do the drawings and input from a structural engineer.

That's because less than 30 and they won't feel warm to the touch. If you want the room to heat to mid 20's (which would have m sitting in my boxers complaining it was too hot) you are going to need a floor temprature of 30 or more anyway I suspect. So start with the manifold mixer hot enough you can feel the heat to determine what is ans what is not working, then when it is all sorted and working wind the temperature down a bit.

One posted on another forum (if I can find it I will copy a link) where the reflected light made an image of, well, the first word of the thread title.

I thought the "selective availability" (deliberate scrambling) of the GPS system had been turned off and we were now getting full accurate resolution. but looking at the GPS track from yesterdays sail, at least one leg which I know we sailed straight is showing as a zig zag, and peak speeds of 14 knots (on a 25 foot sail boat, I don't think so) suggests it is not as accurate as we might believe.

Trust me, I have seen worse, a LOT worse. Tile it and see how it looks. At least it's not "offensive"

1mm is better. There is not much room in those wiring centres to get all the cables in, so the smaller the better.

I know this won't help but I don't like those Heatmiser programmable thermostat things. They are complicated beasts to set up. Give me a simple thermostat with a dial, and a separate conventional central heating time clock to set the on and off times (that's what I have in my house)