ProDave

This corner is just horrible continue the wall units round and ditch that upright cutting across the worktop. Another vote for hob in the island in our case directly backing onto the sink. I don't subscribe to the "island is the place for homework" thought, no it is part of a kitchen for food preparation, and the seating bit of it for a short break looking out over the view.

Lots of rural properties around here with private water and the best systems I have seen is a borehole pump to charge a large accumulator controlled by a pressure switch. Even without the pump (during a power cut) there will still be 200 or more litres of pressurised water in the accumulator.

Thoroughly defrost it and try again? Is that round thing in the first pictures a fan? some fridge freezers just cool the freezer with the compressor, then use a fan to blow some cold air into the fridge to cool that. Is the fan free to rotate or frozen solid?

No I mean zoomed out other bits of equipment not more details of the ones you have show. Somewhere there should be an inverter, here is one as a random picture to give you an idea what it might look like It may not even be in the same room, but I would have thought it likely to connect to that run of white trunking running down the wall from the consumer unit you already posted.

Unusual choice. While Air to air is good, to fit that without thinking about how water is strange. An ASHP with hot water tank would have been a better choice. So probably best choice now is a direct hot water cylinder heated bu immersion heater, using off peak tarrifs if available.

Can you post pictures of all the other bits that connect to that white plastic trunking? there should be an inverter and some switches and possibly meters and things. I enjoy your posts here, please don't stop, it is interesting to see how other countries do things, the only frustration is we don't know the regulations in France so can't make much comment on what is correct from a French regulation point of view.

No they are not. They have a motor running inside them 24/7 driving a gearbox and I think a chain to move the big rotating paddle wheel. They are anything but silent. An air blower type treatment plant just has a standard air blower pump running. There can be a bit of hum in some designs because the manufacturers don't seem to bother with sound proofing and just sit them on a flat surface that can act like a drum. But with a bit of care it is easy to make them very quiet, and some designs let you mount the air blower away from the plant, some have build a brick enclosure for the blower for instance to make it totally silent.

Can you post pictures of exactly what you have inside, i.e. inverter and any switchgear and what is connected already and more importantly what is NOT connected? It sounds like you have a very different way of connecting and metering to us in the UK and until we understand how it is connected we can't advise much. It might be as simple as it is already connected but you are awaiting a separate export meter to be installed to enable payments of exported power.

That's an in line fan. You need to oncouple the ducts both ends and work out if it is the fan itself that has failed or something in duct catching on the fab blades.

A 2 port motorised valve and a room thermostat wired or wireless, but you will need a power supply to that area for it.

Shame you have to buy the whole lot just to replace the broken / missing bits but that would be your easiest solution.

I suspect that thermostat knob is supposed to connect to the grey bit on the left hand pipe, looks like a TRV for the UFH? Not seen one like that before but if it is supposed the be attached but is not it could explain why not working. Will it just clip on like a radiator TRV does? What was the thermostat in the original post that appeared to be mounded on a wall?

Yes definitely get a static caravan as large as you can find. Then spend the time and effort to add external insulation and clad it if you want it to be warmer and look nicer. It will comply with all the rules it has to and be fit for habitation. I don't know the law in Ireland, but in the UK a static caravan comes under a different set of rules to building control. Assuming you have planning for the house build, it should be easy to get permission for the static and do it legally. Alternatively as you are building a house, why not design it so you can build one wing of it first and kit that out to live in while you build the rest? That way all your work is permanent and gets you to a finished house quicker. You can think of outbuildings for holiday use after the main house is built, but do them properly.

I am not sure what you are measuring there, your 2(n) on everything confuses me? You want to measure terminal 10 on the wiring centre or terminal 1 on the boiler, with respect to neutral which can be found on terminal 2 on the wiring centre. This is the call for heat to the boiler that should be on all the time HW, CH or both is demanded. This is the one I think you will find is pulsing on and off. Verify that first. And testing on someone elses system won't get you closer to finding what your system is doing.

The obvious thing from the photos is that thermostatic valve is turned down to minimum. Turn it up to max and tell us more about what you find. When the system is running and the radiators are hot, do any of the grey pipes get hot? And remember UFH works slowly especially when turned on from cold, it is likely to be a couple of hours at least before you feel any warmth in the floor.

Tarmac you can drive on straight away even if still hot.

This is a good description of how the 3 port valve works http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Three_port_mid_position_valve I still suspect yours is overshooting and not reaching a stable mid position "In the "water and heating" state, white is energised. If the valve has port B open, the motor will wind it until A+B, whereupon SW1 changes over, DC is applied to the motor via SW2, and it will stall. If it overshoots, or if it port A was open, SW2 will be operated as well, removing all power from the motor, and allowing the spring to pull the valve back to A+B. It is fun to watch this happening: as the spring pulls the valve back from A open to A+B, the motor acquires quite a momentum and overshoots. It then winds forward a little, and stops in the correct position." Check the voltage coming out of the orange wire. (boiler demand) I bet you will find it is pulsing on and off.

Or just wait until it next floods and it will be obvious which bit is sticking out of the flood water = that bit is too high.

Y plan = 3 port motorised valve. the work of the devil. I bet of you go and look when it is selected for DHW and HW, the 3 port valve has not settled in the mid position but is hunting backwards and forwards, and in the process the call for heat to the boiler is turning on and off. Replace valve control head or bin the 3 port valve and use two 2 port valves instead, FAR more reliable.

We only have the one triangular window in our sun room. It has no blind and never will. I would be very interested so see pictures or a video of any bespoke blind for this sort of window in use, ours have a 45 degree slope and I just cannot imagine any sort of blind or curtain that would actually work. But we knew this at design stage and knew there would be no blinds needed on this window.

That is more or less what I did with my electricity connection.

Looking at that drawing above. What height difference if any is there between the treatment plant and the soakaway? Can you add to that drawing or produce another one showing what happens at the "output" of the soakaway, including levels of important features.

Two points here. The 2 houses feeding this with septic tanks should not do that any more. But sadly SEPA don't seem to care about old non compliant systems. So on the face of it you have a soakaway and rubble drain acting as a partial soakaway and ending up in a burn. So in theory this should never back up to the point of flooding the treatment plant. So something is wrong with the levels when it was installed that is causing the plant to flood, or something is blocked. THAT is what you need to concentrate on finding, what is the weak link in this that is making it possible to back up. Probably an unpleasant job of paddling about in wellies next time it does back up to work out where the problem is. It surely should not be hard to sort out when you have found it. With an eventual destination of the burn, it should not normally back up.

Fred Dibnah was on television several times filling his boiler from them and telling us it was illegal to do so. I wonder how many times he got fined?

Can you post an actual model number of the thermostats, there must be something on them somewhere?