ProDave

I used offcuts of 20mm thick wood fibre board notched round the fixing brackets, then my air tight membrane taped to the window, then plasterboard. Cut the ends of the wedges off close to the window so they are not an additional obstacle.

I would certainly want to pull that carpet up for a look. I bet the surveyor did not do that. Go armed with a long spirit level and your camera again.

I fitted a Mendip Stoves Chirchill 5 in my house. We chose it after doing a tour of all the stove retailers within 50 miles. The important thing is the stove takes both primary and secondary air from the ducted air in port. Not all do. Building control checked and certified the installation, the main things they check was distance to combustible materials from the stove and flue, requiring a copy of parts of the installation manual to check against.

1) Consider something else without moving mechanical parts, e.g one of the air blower treatment plants. 2) Rainwater soakaway and foul soakaway should be separate. The "plan" to share them may suggest you are short of land to do it properly. Post a site plan so we can see how much space you have. And welcome to the forum.

My no 1 question is WHERE are you? I would be very surprised if this is in the UK. Can you have the water tested? if it is not corrosive, why the need for a heat exchanger? just pump(s) and 2 or more 2 port valves. Use a heat pump hot water cylinder with a large area input coil.

Yes you won't need the bottle trap outside.

Yes 110mm to 40mm reducers are standard items and all sealed. It does not even need a branch straight into the top of the 110mm might be okay in some situations.

Do you have a link with dimensions?

That's more like it

Start with posting an anonymised plan or aerial view showing your plot layout and what you know about what is there.

The nearest from that site is this https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/09FA608__18"_Galv_Garage_Door_Bolt_ Even that will need adaptation. It seems I have invented a new sort of gate bolt that nobody makes?

Your choices are apply for planning permission before continuing. Or just do it. If the planners notice and try and enforce it, then your first course of action is apply for retrospective permission. Only if that is refused (and an appeal is refused of you try that) that you will have to revert to what was there before. My gut feeling is it won't be refused. Out of interest how long has the garage been there?

Yes but I am trying to make the connection between the 2 more solid and less likely to rattle in the wind. These are not exactly solid gates.

Warning. Worlds worst mockup ever: that's all I want. Imagine that bit of chrome tube had a handle on the left hand end. When engaged there are 2 fixings on each gate and it is solid. It would just slide out to the left to open one gate or both (one will have a drop bolt into the ground). And a stop to prevent it coming all the way out. I could make it myself, even that bit of chrome tube and 4 galvanised conduit clamps in place of the plastic ones. Surely something like this must exist?

So in pic 2 you are already in the process of raising the height of your garage roof. I don't see the neighbours extension having any relevance to what you are doing, but it is outside what is allowed by permitted development so you should seek planning permission. If you don't then it's possible the planners may enforce it's removal. Worst case you put it back as it was. What to you want to achieve with this raised roof?

My gates are much less substantial and a lot thinner than that. I could make a similar thing for them if I have to make it.

The one I linked to is the best looking "drop bolt" for my need but far from perfect without adaptation.

Can't find anything on HIS or Macgregors website, have not yet visited in person.

And as usual I can't find what I want because I do not know the correct name for it. I want to erect a pair of timber gates. I am looking for a bolt to join them together when closed. A normal short bolt is no good because the bolt only travels a short distance so does not "lock" the gates together, they would rattle in the wind. What I want is a bolt with a long travel and in particular it would slide into a tube or multiple fixings on the other gate so when closes the gates would be held rigidly in line. the nearest I have found is this https://www.screwfix.com/p/smith-locke-door-bolt-galvanised-458mm/8903x That is not what I really want but could form the starting point for some adaptions, if I had the bolt with the two fixings it slides in, and then 2 more identical fixings to go on the other gate it would do what I want. But before I buy something and butcher it, I feel the thing I want must be available, if only I knew the proper name to search for.

P.S I don't like your proposed new layout, it would force the living room into being a through route corridor and be tedious to keep going round through that to get to the stairs. It flows much better as it is. Utility is best left where it is as far from the living room as possible. You don't want a washing machine that close unless you don't mind noise. From my point of view it would devalue the house and make it less appealing to me, but others may differ.

I have never seen a stud wall built at 900mm spacing. That is extreme penny pinching and makes life awkward for the trades as already mentioned. What plasterboard was on that wall? Standard 12.5mm is surely not intended for a 900mm span is it?

Is this the SAME chimney already being talked about in your damp patch in the ceiling thread or a different one?

Another thought. Joist directions (and this is speculation) I would expect the joists above the living room to span side to side of the house as that is the shorter span. But the joists above the kitchen / diner would be a long span doing that, so could that wall you are wanting to alter be supporting those joists and they are running front to back? I would start by dropping the downlighters in the kitchen and having a look to see if you can determine joist direction in the kitchen / diner area.

Is the house detached or joined? The OSB cladding could be because the wall is rated as a racking wall, to resist wind pressure on the side wall (assuming it is detached)

How can the bubble on a Megaglow disintegrate? It is just a dome in the top of the cylinder above the waterline so as you fill the cylinder with water air is trapped in that bubble and compresses to take up expansion. It can lose the air bubble over time, in which case you follow the procedure to drain the cylinder and re fill it. No need to fit a separate EV. Since you have not regenerated the internal bubble have you checked your external EV has not failed? is still retaining air pressure in the bladder etc?