ProDave

Why did you let him do that? I am surprised building control did not pick this up?

I take the more realistic view, that for a house without mains gas available, a HP will get you down to about the same heating cost as mains gas and better than any other electric option or oil.

My only thought is if there is no wall above, and the existing supporting wall is at 1/3 span, why not install the new beam at 1/2 span, i.e. not exactly where the existing wall is. That would be better from an engineering point of view and you could install the new beam first, then take down the wall without jacking anything up. 1930's houses were not well known for having properly sized beams, one I previously owned had sagged upper floors and a brick upstairs wall not directly above the downstairs wall.

You do NOT need 3 bar for and ASHP. 3 bar may be nice for an unvented hot water tank. Upgrading pipe size will not increase static pressure, it might improve flow rates. What is the highest static pressure you get? It might be worth fitting a large accumulator that will charge up to the highest static pressure slowly then deliver a higher pressure at time of use. I am pretty sure you are not allowed to pump directly from the mains (i.e. suck water out of the mains pipe) so any pumped solution would have to be from a break tank.

I would definitely get attic trusses, so much better and not that much more expensive.

I may be wrong, but a set of stairs would have to meet building regs regards to pitch, width, etc and in particular clear headroom above the stairs and landing. That will mean you forming a permanent compliant landing "upstairs" then with a door through to the loft. I might be inclined to wait for completion, and then fit a space saving staircase and some form of easy to open loft hatch when you get to the top of the stairs.

The 3M linit is only if you are relying on the DNO's fuse as the circuit protection. Fit your own (in my case switch fuse with 80A fuse in it) and there is no such limit.

Sorry I don't recall how it was resolved. The troubleshooting download still works for me, but it does not tell you a lot apart from what the error codes mean, not what to do about it. I wish I had posted how it was resolved but I didn't and have no recollection of what was done.

And you have to guess them as they bear no relationship to their manifestos.

Most shower wastes built in like that are "top access" and they have some form of "bucket" that lifts out from the top, it is this lift out but that forms the trap and you can lift it out to clean it. If all you see looking down the rectangular hole is the pipe heading off, it might have a part missing and hence not forming a trap so the smells get in.

Almost any pump of that size will work, the Wilo are good because they are very quiet.

I thought that shock outcome HAD come true and people are now tightening their belts nervoulsy awaiting the budget to find out how much poorer they are going to be? Local house builder here has SHUT one of his sites because the houses on the first site are not selling quick enough.

Hi and welcome. you are in good company, and most of your questions will be answered by reading this blog of another member who has done what i think you are wanting to do.

That was a case of bad electrician rather than poor planning. when I was wiring new builds, I would take a walk round the shell of the building with a marker pen and discuss with the owner where they wanted sockets, switches etc and price on what they wanted, not what some random architect who was never going to live in the property had marked on the plan. Sole trader tradesmen live or die on their reputation and recommendation. If he ripped you off, don't be afraid of telling anyone that asks and don't recommend him. All my work came from recommendations.

A bit more context is needed. Why are they looking at the retaining wall? Is it failing? Are they expecting to come onto your land to repair it? Are they blaming you for it's failure?

For the inner bathroom a light tunnel or solar tube works well, we had one in a previous house to light an otherwise dark landing and it worked well. That revised layout flows a lot better.

Hi and welcome. Lots to work out in due course. But I will start with if you build with enough insulation and air tightness, you won't need heating upstairs.

Re submit planning for one house and the mobile home shown on the plans as temporary accommodation for the build and to be retained. If it is all one plot as far as planning is concerned then keeping a caravan in your garden is permitted development. The fact it has planning at the moment as 2 dwellings is what is scuppering the plan as the other plot is not part of your garden so you can't have a caravan there as permitted development.

The only way I solved whether mine was getting enough flow rate or not was to fit an in line flow meter. If you are not hearing any noise, it could be the pump is seized, but the Wilo pumps are one of the quietest pumps available.

No trickle vents so how do you KNOW you it is "well ventilated"?

I make it clear I charge by the hour. So would you rather pay me at an electricians rate per hour to move furniture, or would you rather move it yourself and pay me less? Simple question.

If that is ALL the insulation you are fitting on a (assumed) un insulated floor, then the electric UFH will be very ineffective and very expensive to heat as a huge proportion of the electricity used will just be heating the under floor space. Most people consider a minimum of 100mm thick PIR type insulation to be required. And in any event electric UFH is probably the most expensive way to heat a room, and no means to repair a fault in the heating mat if one occurs.

At probably £200 per pump out, it would soon be cheaper to do it properly.

Hi and welcome, you are in good company.

Looks like the cheap gold plating has failed. Wrap the replacement in self amalgamating tape, and honestly a bit of vaseline smeared on the connector pins before engaging keeps water out. (I do this on boat connections)